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Carling

Wax oil underside

Question

Guys just a thought. 
 

Is this worth doing or even need doing?

 

I know when I had my fto it needed doing, but totally different kettle of fish I guess. Just thinking I’m going to keeping the car a good while so I wanted to look after her.

 

Price is approx £350 so not cheap but if it needs doing then I guess it’s a necessity. 
 

Appreciate any advice. 

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Agreed why bother spending anything on our cars? Its not like we enjoy them or find modern stuff a real turn off.

In fact why bother at all with cheap, mass produced crap.

No point, lets just let em waste away. easy to find another and then repeat.

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Waxoyl  is soft and will soon be blasted off exterior parts - it is better suited to cavities and stopping rot coming through from inside.

 

Be very wary of underseal of any sort. If it's just sprayed on over the top of whatever's there then it will seal in dirt, moisture and existing surface rust and accellerate the rusting process. Preparation is critical and isn't fast as it includes removing all dirt and loose paint (many quick turnround places use a steam cleaner or jet wash) Then needs to be left long enough to dry in all the fiddly bits - this ideally means days / weeks in a warm dry place. Then any surface rust needs treating, then a layer of red oxide then finally the underseal.  Shortcutting any of this will probably lead to accellerated rusting, especially in the seams - the most critical part to strength.

 

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Agh right so prob not a viable option then?

 

I need the car on a daily basis, it’s kept in the garage when not in use but I can’t be without her for a long period of time.

 

Theres a place local to me saying 3-5 days but as you’ve said Chris it sounds like a quick job cutting corners sort of thing.

 

Here they are: 

 

http://rustproofing.wales
 

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Cavity Wax is popular, Im going with Dinitrol Rustproofing and underseal.

 

My mechanic is doing it, so far he has cleaned all underneath including cavities and rails and all areas inc wheel arches, he is going to rust treat any rusty areas first, then he will go through all the stages of application, basically he said every inch of her including filling the sills up with it as well. Then clear Cavity wax inside the spare wheel well and protect up in behind the quarter panels and lift the carpet and protect the inside floor sections too. 

 

Will take a while but thats on the schedule to be done. Wont be cheap but I know he will do a flawless job with it.

Edited by SpaceCowboys83
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Did he say how long you’ll be without the car mate? rough cost?

 

I assume the Gen 7 would have protection underneath anyway, but possibly not as good as it was due to age etc 

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ive had this done all surface rust was ground off cleaned up then primed up to stop it coming back then dinatrol applied also had all crossmembers and doors filled wasn't cheap at 500 quid though jr classics did it near Doncaster 

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Anything black and gooey is bad in my opinion; it hides what's going on beneath it, which may well be metal rusting away merrily.

 

The first thing to go on to the cleaned down underside should be a zinc phosphate anti-corrosion primer paint followed by a top coat paint made by the same manufacturer as the primer, i.e. you are using a 'paint system', with each component fully compatible with the other.

 

In any place where this fails, you will see rust stains very quickly and easily and can then re-work the affected area (usually small). On a car of this age, some localised failures are inevitable due to inadequate removal of the original rust. Black goo just hides that until it eventually drops off in large chunks revealing all the rot that has been going underneath it for weeks-months-years.

 

This requires a lot of effort and allowing the coats to dry, the car is probably going to off the road for 3 days?

Edited by bazz54

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cavity wax is easy enough to apply with the aerosols and extension wands.

waxoyl as mentioned above doesnt really harden and can come off over time. stonechip e.g upol gravitex works well for the underside.

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I just bought an ST 202 in London, but I live in Scotland where cars dissolve quickly, so for me it’s a must have. Yes, it’s costing me £600, but what’s the alternative? The car is immaculate underneath and I want it to stay that way. I am using a company called preserve protect preserveprotect.co.uk who have the car just now. Great reviews and they use Dinitrol. They will update me with piccies and I will try and post them. I know it’s in Scotland, which is no use to you, but have a look at the website and make your own mind up. Hope that helps you. Iain. 

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Hey Carling, like you I had an FTO so I know what rust is like. I lost my last car (FTO) to the dread rust so am getting mine done. Been meaning to do it for over a year since owning the car and finally getting it done this week.

 

My local garage is changing my front and rear subframes that have been treated with POR15 today and I will then get the rest of the undercarriage and sills treated with a specialist. They deal with landrovers so am sure they can deal with a Celica. They strip the underside and treat the rust before adding the protection (Dinitrol) and cavity wax.

 

Been quoted about £495 and will need car for at least half a week.

 

Don't really mind as I only drive about 2k a year. Not cheap but then I intend to keep the car for a good few years and paranoid after rust got my FTO!

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check out my thread for full details, but I had the entire underside of my car stripped to bare metal, new metal welded in, then all treated in a 4 stage POR 15 process.

 

Not cheap but car will last now. Those basic sprays over everything, in my opinion do nothing but promote and hide rot, as said above. do it right or not at all I feel

 

Finished 4.jpg

tank 5.jpg

Tank 6.jpg

Tank 8.jpg

Tank 9.jpg

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On 19/01/2020 at 09:40, Carling said:

Theres a place local to me saying 3-5 days but as you’ve said Chris it sounds like a quick job cutting corners sort of thing.

 

Here they are: 

 

http://rustproofing.wales

 

That is a very interesting link ^

 

I like the way they term the four stages of condition, some Gen 7s have already gone the way of stage 3 & 4 but i expect most of us Gen 7 users have cars at stage 2:

 

 

Quote

 

Stage 2 surface corrosion is usually found on slightly older vehicles. Typically the underbody sealant applied by the manufacturer has started to fail. Water has got trapped underneath the failed sections. The corrosion and failed underbody sealant will need removing / preparation for treatment.
Typically we use an air needler to remove the failed underseal. Sand blasting is also an option where needed.

 

 

 

I like the fact they are trying to address the concerns of people like us have in wanting to preserve our cars without it costing a fortune.

Would be good to hear reviews from people who have used this firm.

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Honestly, unless your Celica has led a very protected life, with little use in bad weather and dry stored, you will not find your car to be stage 2. It will be more like stage 3.

How can you protect the entire car, if you do not take things such as fuel tanks, subframes suspension etc off the vehicle?

The issue is, once you strip and disturb all the running gear, then you need to think about fastenings, fitting old parts back etc.

It quickly escalates.

Its catch 22, as Honestly the amount mine has cost me has been a huge hit. So you have to mange costs I get it

 

 But I can now use the car with full peace of mind at least, when I can afford to put fuel in it

 

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I get people spending 600 quid for undersealing a Bentley or ferrari. But on a car that costs less than a grand a lot of people need to justify the cost.

Majority of these old cars are just one big bill away from the scrapyard.

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4 minutes ago, alwayzsidewayz said:

Agreed why bother spending anything on our cars? Its not like we enjoy them or find modern stuff a real turn off.

In fact why bother at all with cheap, mass produced crap.

No point, lets just let em waste away. easy to find another and then repeat.

7 years ive owned mine and most of the time you brush away dirt etc when you do jobs and also most of the time MOTs are the ones that say if your car is bad 

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