Jump to content
×

Welcome to Celica Club UK

Welcome to Celica Club UK, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information. Take advantage of it immediately, Register Now or Sign In.

  • Start new topics and reply to others
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Add events to our community calendar
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Customize your experience here
  • Use the wealth of knowledge our members have to help with any questions you may have.

Crazy Cat Lady

Club Member
  • Content Count

    823
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Crazy Cat Lady last won the day on September 26 2018

Crazy Cat Lady had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

390 Excellent

About Crazy Cat Lady

  • Rank
    Speeding

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Powys Wales
  • Interests
    Good Food & wine, music, home audio, gardening, DIY, cycling, cats!
  • Model
    G7 Red Edition

Recent Profile Visitors

1,420 profile views
  1. If the problem yours has is anything like my A/C problem, then it could be an old bashed up and leaking condenser that seen better days. They sit right in-front of the cooling system radiator where they can get knocked about by stones and debris from under the spoiler. I'm not positively sure this is the [only] problem on mine, but last year i had mine re-gassed [ and all done properly ] but only to find the A/C lasted a nice couple of months but then didn't. The compressor seems to work fine but the coolant is leaking out somewhere. I'm willing to gamble it's the condenser on mine and will soon be changing it for a new one.
  2. For the past couple of years i've had an Avensis Ferodo front disc eBay listing below in my watch list. Please don't take my word that it's the correct fit for our Avensis upgrade to Celica hub, it needs confirmation from the mechanical experts here! It's also the eBay dealer 'Autosessive' [ based in Chester ] that is mentioned in above post by maizey ^ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferodo-DDF1315-Front-Right-Left-Brake-Discs-Pair-Vented-295mm-x-26mm-5-Hole/401440863377 I believe the criteria in question is the stud hole patten. Please can someone confirm...?
  3. The only coating we could tell is the oily film that gets wiped off with the brake cleaner I dunno if the gold and black colour coatings are any different [ i suspect not ] It's probably the case all discs rust cos they be made of steel, so we may as well paint some protection on, only aesthetically pleasing but nice to keep things smart and tidy. Which make of discs did you buy ? Next time i need discs i'll probably buy Ferodo, i rather like their pads. They will probably rust just the same but the price is good value for money.
  4. I had M-Tecs fitted four years ago, no squeals but the special rust prevention silver colour coating is a debatable joke; 48 hours from fitting they started rusting with the first drop of rain. Painting the hub parts before fitting is a very good idea, painting them after-fitting is a lot more faff. IMO Rose gold is the best colour - well chosen! Photo from July 2015
  5. It's a shame we need to cart around a spare wheel - that really does weigh heavy. A lightweight get-me-home spare wheel maybe all we need (?) The last time i punctured and had to put the spare on was 1988
  6. IMO it looks an improvement over the old swishy whip aerial, but when i [ briefly ] tried it the reception became a lot worse I suppose it could depend upon where you live, and if your tuner and aerial are digital (?) Is that the gas mens van across the road - by any chance?
  7. Went to see my mechanic mate who kindly let me use his ramp for a little while. Under the car i found the cause of a sharp clattery bang type noise every time i drove over a bump; Relieved to find nothing serious - just a couple of popper studs missing from front-nearside wheel arch inner trim - so replaced. Also noticed the rear fixings of the silencer exhaust shield had worn though so that was clanging too, so secured it firmly on with zip ties from the [worn too enlarged] heat shield holes to wrap a hold around rear sub-frame, bit of a bodge but a nicely done bodge and all noises gone now A shampoo and polish later back at home, and some tyre dressing. It got a bit too dark by then to take a photo but believe me it looks cute
  8. Somehow have full confidence your paint job will be fine, Master Flex!
  9. Hopefully your yellow paint will be flex-resistant. Others have reported and i can confirm, the rear subframes flex and which in time cracks the paint finish. It's probably what causes the rust to get a start in the first place [ and start again if reconditioned ] I'm not sure which paint to recommend. My rear subframe was thoroughly bead blasted, primed and powder coated, but paint cracks have appeared [at the tension bar mount area] It's not so bad it can't be treated in situ, but will need addressing some time soon to keep it rust free.
  10. IIRC Lee charges £35 an hour, i think the labour charge i paid was around £120 When we changed the rear subframe we took the opportunity for a bit of de-rusting underside, and painting, plus application of some dinitrol. But we took our time [ waiting for paint to dry ] so time it took was longer than a straight forward subframe change. If traveling you need to have all your ducks in a line, new or reconditioned subframe, camber bolts, trailing arm all ready to go on for the swop-over.
  11. Look on the bright side; it will be good after getting them changed and you feel how much better the brakes are
  12. Yes, i suppose owning ones own barn or safe indoor garage/warehouse is a requisite for free rent, and i agree this most probably not a resource many of us have. But there must be loads of people who used to own a Gen 1 lift back and really wish they'd kept it... Mind you if we all kept stuff for future investment potential the supply with eventually outstrip demand, so the value wouldn't rise... and i am sceptical if the days of nostalgic value cars will be over with the impending 'electric' car future. Maybe too many ecological legislation hurdles coming our way too. It's plausible that no later day Gen Celica will every be worth the big bucks in 10 or 20 years time (?) But you never know
  13. Gen 7s values are enduring the undistinguished age of being too young to be classic, and too old to be hip An alternative strategy is not sell if a reasonable resale value ain't there. Mothball Moo into barn storage somewhere safe, under a dust sheet with battery removed etc... Revisit in a decade from now - Gen 7s will be far rarer, more interesting, desirable, and most probably far more valuable.
  14. Interesting information, i learnt something there, thanks for sharing I guess it's akin to the Yamaha three tuning folks logo - with it's link to musical instruments and to represent the three pillars of their business; technology, production, and sales
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Follow @celicaclubuk
All pages © celica-club 2001 - 2019 (Unless otherwise stated). No pictures can be used without our consent. Terms of use | Privacy policy