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Showing content with the highest reputation since 26/07/19 in all areas

  1. 7 points
  2. 5 points
  3. 4 points
    You never know what you might meet, down dark tunnels.....
  4. 3 points
    Hi Cornish lass your lacquer problem having painted many cars in my time this what I would do remove any flaking lacquer around the area affected get some wet and dry rubbing down paper grit number 600,800 and 1000 three or four sheets a tube of medium burnishing compound and a rubbing block a reel of say 1 inch masking tape and paper for masking the areas you do not need to repaint you could either use a strong de waxing detergent or better still a de wax fluid and a good quality lacquer aerosol say about 500 size depends on area to cover . All this you should be able to get from a motorist stores, now the job part have a look on utube for methodology of the work for your knowledge but this what I would do thoroughly wash the whole area hard or treat the area with de wax solution, now select the 600 grit paper and some normal soap gently flat the lacquer on the good part of the area the lacquer will appear as a white residue on the rubbing paper do not rub through the good lacquer just remove a fine skin to the edge of the affected part now start to use the 800 grit paper and repeat the the process again lightly wash of often and dry off to see the results you would need to have about six inches rubbing down area all around the affected parts he finish you will see is a dull but very smooth area. Now use the 1000 grit and rub all of the area good and affected part carefully you are aiming to blend any edges in to each other but do not rub though the paint colour, now mask the area be aware of the air temp it needs to be a sunny day say around 20 plus degrees if any humidity no good the lacquer will dry milky looking so dry warm air is required to paint as you are out side, now start spraying the affected area first applying several coats the idear is to build up the affected area to match the good area in depth of lacquer be watching for flys in it and any dust if you do get any amount let lacquer dry and rub down with 800 grit and soap to remove the contamination, now for the finish coating before final coating clean entire area wash gently and dry thoroughly now again start by spraying the affected area and start to extend the spraying area out onto the good area applying 3 to 5 coats now leave to dry completely say around two days in warm weather. You can now rub the entire area with soap and 1000 grit this should produce a dull looking finish very smooth and clean after this use the compound and burnish the whole area to bring it up to a glossy finish then polish and the repainted area should blend in with each other hope the above helps you it’s a lengthy process but you can do it yourself a word of advice practice spraying from a aerosol to get some idea on coverage and use and use light coats to avoid getting runs don’t put to heavy coats on in one go light and many with flash of time between coats read the can for info.
  5. 3 points
  6. 3 points
    Those with JDM cars will know a normal OBD reader wont work with there car, I have a tool that does them but it was quite expensive and has been discontinued, I have just come across this - which covers JOBD https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JOBD-OBD2-Car-Scanner-Engine-Fault-Code-Reader-Diagnostic-Tool-for-Japanese-Cars/392269988842?epid=14031257018&hash=item5b551d03ea:g:tcYAAOSwTUdco0hj I have not tried it but for the price if you have a JDM car its worth a shot!
  7. 2 points
    On a positive note , at least it wasn't a tattoo.. My pic of the day , mine alongside my mates TA22 at a classic show last weekend
  8. 2 points
    A pallet load of parts for my 165 ......
  9. 2 points
    My 1980s reprints of old Toyota ads came.Ordered one for my gen4,and got one for the Supra free of charge with it.Couple of cheap frames later and they're headed for the mancave garage wall next to my gen4 (wish i had the MA61 too though!)
  10. 2 points
  11. 1 point
    I might be a bit late to the party on this stuff as I normally hate anything that includes the word 'detailing' (it's just good cleaning lol) But I tried this stuff the other day to remove dried water spots left after washing the car. Some people use it on a dirty car but I wouldn't risk that. It seems ideal to use between washes if the cars just dusty or been rained on. A few sprays on each panel, wipe in gently with a cloth, leave a few minutes then buff off with a soft cloth. I think it's got wax or polishing elements in it so gives a good shine too. I'd recommend trying it. It's currently got a few quid off at Halford's too.
  12. 1 point
    Having seen this im person on Sunday I can honestly say Its one of the best celicas I have seen! Was good to meet you
  13. 1 point
    Welcome to Celica Club UK. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.
  14. 1 point
    Personally i dont think so, they share a lot of things with the non convertibles too so being in the gen4,5,6 sections seems fine to me
  15. 1 point
    Agree on Scottish cars - have seen some that have been really bad from there. Most coastal cars seem to be bad Cars from around the midlands seem to be ok.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Send the organisers an email and see what they say.
  18. 1 point
    I did the same, roof lining you can finger poke the wire all the way to the pillar. The pillar just pulls off, so easy to put the wire behind. easy enough to route it to the centre console with the glovebox out. and splice it behind the cigarette lighter. No wires on show and starts recording when starting the engine
  19. 1 point
    A boot-tidy..................Yay!!!!!!
  20. 1 point
    Put a 3sge in if you can get the ecu as well plus engine loom and exhaust
  21. 1 point
    I sanded down my patch on the 5 very gently, then just sprayed some halfords lacquer over it and tried to feather out the edge. Seemed to stop it getting worse, but def needs to be dealt with properly.
  22. 1 point
    My first GT suffered this , had a couple of patches on the roof and there wasnt really an answer to it other than going down the respray route when i was looking. The other alternative which i may have done as a temp solution was to wrap the roof, just to make it look a bit neater, i was just going to do it black and save for proper paintjob - unfortunately it soon after failed mot and got sold for spares so i never did it
  23. 1 point
    Does the sun strip effect the drivers view of the road? Ie me at 6’2 sitting in the car looking straight head will it effect my view? Is it a solid colour, not transparent? Would fitting smaller wipers effect the swept area again effecting the drivers view of the road? Measuring the wiper blades will not be part of the test, as a tester myself I have no idea what size wipers should be fitted to every car I’ve tested. Neither does it list a size for any cars. Truth be told I wouldn’t even think to measure the blades if I was happy that it clearing a good enough section of the screen. The only test to be done on a wiper blade is does it clear the screen, yes, is it secure, yes, does it leave a good field of vision clean, yes, then it’ll pass. I wouldn’t care if you fitted 10” wipers, as long as I can see enough to be sure that your vision isn’t compromised. Neither do I care if the wipers split, as long as it’s secure and clearing. You don’t even need to run your finger down the blade. The test isn’t to fail the car, I don’t go looking for failures, I test every car to make sure it’s safe, if it isn’t then it shouldn’t be on the road. Also so don’t forget a lot of the test is down to the testers opinion, yes there’s set limits for certain things, but things like play in joint, what one jobs worth thinks is a failure could if the DVSA inspect the car be deemed it as a pass and advise. I was always told that if I was ever in doubt to pass and advise it, if I’ve told you something ain’t quite right and you ignore it and crash, it’s on you. MOT standards are very low standards. You can read all the standards in sections 3 of the mot manual, it’s on the .gov website and anybody can view it. Oh but I’d remove the tint on the headlight if it effect the light output colour lol
  24. 1 point
    I think that will be my tactic. No prolonged use just clean, dry, cover overnight.
  25. 1 point
    having that many covers cant let the moisture of condensation out. Ive mentioned this before that yes, no cover is perfect however my one from Specialised Covers has done my gen4 no harm at all over 6 years and a respray inbetween.i didn't cover the car for a few weeks after the new paint though.its breathable and most out there just aren't. When the weather's alright I always took the cover off now and again if it was convenient. but it was covered for a good few weeks at a time over the winter . Through snow and all sorts.But that's just my experience. I wouldn't use any other cover myself .Handily I got my garage sorted today so gen4 is now inside , hurrah.still tempted to get one made up for the faff though.
  26. 1 point
    For an astonishing £20 a wheel, I quite like this outfit in Brum https://www.citywheelrefurbishment.co.uk/
  27. 1 point
    They're very good. They re cut my diamond cut ones that were old, chipped and furred up. One of the few that actually do the cutting rather than farm it out to someone else. I had a look round and they had some lovely painted and coated stuff in they'd done. I'd recommend
  28. 1 point
    I paid around £70 per alloy for refurb, powdercoat including straightening at Platinum alloys in Swindon. The Fondmetal alloys are generally fairly heavy, prone to bending in potholes and the finish is not good. Because of this I went with aftermarket alloys that are lighter and can look better (wider 8j, different colours) or more to your taste. Also switching to 225/45r17 tyre size can be good to prevent pothole damage. Only downside with looking at aftermarket or nice used alloys is that it can quickly get addictive/more expensive.
  29. 1 point
    Jeez I had my ACE alloys refurbished and powder coated for £190 for 4. I would tend to agree with oldred .. it's almost certainly aluminium oxidisation the brown will probably be from brake dust etc ... Water has got behind the coating around the valve seat would be my guess
  30. 1 point
    I know a really good place in Leeds if you're ever this way. If you are, let me know and I'll give you details
  31. 1 point
    I was quoted £60 (no VAT) per Tech5 in 2017, but bought a set of Bola B1 rims instead. That price included a change of colour to Gunmetal, masking the decorative studs, and a lacquered finish. https://www.facebook.com/neilspristinewheels2012/
  32. 1 point
    Can highly recommend Mint Alloys just outside of Luton if you're down this way Think I paid 312 for 4 17s, not the cheapest but did a lovely job a few years back with no sign of issues yet
  33. 1 point
    Just looked at your new profile mate. Well done in your new role
  34. 1 point
    After a long wait, these arrived yesterday. Still need a little bit of TLC to get some of the small dings out but I am happy with them.
  35. 1 point
    "Guys" was a generic term for a collection of people.... Thanks for your help though!
  36. 1 point
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