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bazz54 last won the day on October 26 2018

bazz54 had the most liked content!

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About bazz54

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    Gen 7 140

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  1. Thanks for that Ams; as soon as I have time to take the existing ones off, if I need to replace, I'll keep that in mind.
  2. Well, my pre-face 7 must be on 255, so going to 295 should make a "noticeable difference". Let me see how the current ones clean up; I think I am being lead in to temptation here .
  3. No, I have never given that a great deal of thought. Is your thinking that if somebody needed to buy new calipers, big ones (and the appropriate disc)do better than little ones? If you do upgrade, does any change need making to the brake balance?
  4. Yes, I've always been 100% happy with Brake Parts (or Brake Parts Int" as they used to be). There certainly used be a refundable surcharge for return of the old ones; may be as Celica numbers have declined they've stopped doing that?
  5. Thanks for those comments. When I re-built the Toyota calipers back around 2012, I got the parts from Brake Parts and all went very well and, up till lock down, they been fine. However, I do recall that they did have a bit of rust on the cylinder bores, which I removed with steel wire and that worked out well. At ~20 years old now, I'm not sure what to expect; they might clean up again, but I'm just preparing for "worst case" situations.
  6. The 20 year old front calipers on my Gen7 are pretty much seized on; the lockdown has not been good for them. I fully refurbished them 10 years ago, and I periodically clean them up, and they may clean up and work again. As often as not the pads are seized in the caliper and the pistons and sliders are free. In case I need to replace them, I’ve been looking at the price of “replacement calipers” and these vary wildly. What I’m not clear about is whether there are such things as “brand new” calipers (except from Mr T) and whether all the other ones for sale are actually old refurbi
  7. I have a couple of calipers, which are used, but in good condition. Obviously the insides of them are wet with brake fluid. I have capped the hydraulic connections, but we know that brake fluid readily adsorbs water vapour and then becomes a bit corrosive. Does anyone have any good ideas about how best to store used brakes parts? B
  8. Worth pointing out here that a few Gen7s start to show a little bit of rust on the edge of the fuel flap; best dealt with quickly before it spreads to the visible surface.
  9. Looks bloody daft to me. Wouldn't have one if you offered me £300 to use it.
  10. Anything black and gooey is bad in my opinion; it hides what's going on beneath it, which may well be metal rusting away merrily. The first thing to go on to the cleaned down underside should be a zinc phosphate anti-corrosion primer paint followed by a top coat paint made by the same manufacturer as the primer, i.e. you are using a 'paint system', with each component fully compatible with the other. In any place where this fails, you will see rust stains very quickly and easily and can then re-work the affected area (usually small). On a car of this age, some localised
  11. In the second video, he changed his test procedure, as suggested by a number of his viewers, and also looked some other agents. His final conclusion was he got the best results from the Seafoam Creep. The key part of his test method was the use of his digital torque adapter, which was an AC-Delco model, which I'd regard as a quality bit of kit. I'm quite amazed at the intensity of the disdain the guy has attracted; it may not be the definitive study, but no one is being specific about what he's doing badly. One thing he could have done additionally is some statistics, which would have giv
  12. Well the first line of your post say the guy is doing a rubbish test, but the last line of your post agrees with his conclusion that heating beats all the stuff in cans. You've doing nothing to convince me that it is a rubbish video, simply that you have your own opinions and don't want to change them. Testing the effectiveness of releasing agents is hard to do (I've done some tests myself) and the guy in the video is clearly not working in a professional lab, but as someone who does work in a professional lab, I don't see that he's doing a bad job. If anyone can point me at a tech
  13. I would not be surprised if someone comes along and offers their opinion that nothing beats Plusgas. Why do you think your opinion carries any more weight than theirs? Having bought my first can of WD40 when it first appeared in the mid-1970's, and having tried various alternatives since, I'm not at all sure that any one is that much better, and that's why I look for test data. Do you really think the guy staged his tests, which seem to suggest that a homebrew mixture of acetone and ATF compares very favourably with any of the commercial products? I would point out to you that for
  14. The same guy has got another follow-up video where he decides that Seafoam Creep is the dog's danglies https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st8dkGzJWtg&list=TLPQMTgxMjIwMTllRjTDoHprQA&index=1 That's on ebay at £13 - just bought some. @jim7564 has the silkolene product been tested against anything? Data beats opinions everytime... that's my opinion, though I have no data on that
  15. This is one of my pets subjects - wd40 v PlusGas, and similar comparisons. This YouTube video is the best comparison I've ever seen. Most of these products are only achieving a minimal effect. The American "Liquid Wrench" seems to do well - anyone ever tried it? Note the safety warnings over acetone/ATF homebrew -damn right! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs
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