Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. Yesterday
  3. They are only factory fit. They have your vin on.
  4. Hey peeps, does anyone know where you can order these chassis number labels from that can be found on inner body panels, please? This is from a G7. Thanks
  5. Last week
  6. Jack the control arm up slowly until the car starts to lift away from the axle stand, basically simulating ride height
  7. Hi mate. It's to do with bush twist buddy. It's the ones with the bushes that need to be done under load. As you can imagine the force on the bush when the suspension is weight free differs from it having the load of the car on it. I think for ease I will just hijack.uo each side. It probably won't make much difference anyway :)
  8. I did mine as yours is, up in the air. There's not a huge amount of play if any in the bolts anyway, the most amount of play is on the two bigger bolts on the subframe, but is held in position with the two smaller bolts, hubs are tight with the polybushes, the arms are held to the wishbones which have two or three bolts holding them on. The others will be undone and tightened back up when you get a four wheel alignment done down the road.
  9. I need to torque all the rear suspension. I know this is normally done under load. To reduce twist, but can I Jack each rear control arm up and once it's at its limit. Torque it then?
  10. Earlier
  11. Tap them in with a rubber mallet you'll be fine, they undergo more than that when your driving on them, even the OEM rubber ones can be a tight fit when connecting everything up.
  12. Yeah, got some grease with the bushes so ill try that. I'm also reseating all of them.
  13. Silicone or red rubber grease should help
  14. Sorry to clarify. Not actually pressing the bush into the fitting. Already found out that was hard. I meant fitting 1 component to the other.
  15. A solution of washing-up liquid and a small amount of water works well.
  16. Are they supposed to have some kind of special polybush lubricant to aid the fitting? ...and stop them squeaking?
  17. They are supposed to be a tight fit
  18. Yup will be tight. Some need a hydraulic press to be used.
  19. Hi all, just wondered if its normal when putting suspension together the polybushes are really tight. I basically need a rubber mallet to get them to fit.
  20. For rears id splice but for front I'd do full replacement with copper nickel pipe with stainless or brass fittings.
  21. Yeah I can imagine mate. I only wanted to protect the fastener holes as it always goes there. I'll do the same on the backbox one as well.
  22. Used silver vht paint on mine, only downside if you use etch primer I don't think it has the heat resistance of the higher temp paint, so just cleaned and scratched the surface of the heatshield and sprayed the vht on as it was, still seems fine at the moment. Does get dirty after a short while so doesn't really matter in the long run. You'll be looking under the car in 12 months and feel disappointed how dirty it's got after all the hard work you've put in.
  23. I'd check in your local dealer, i was going to make my own but as both were about £70-£80 each I didn't think it was worth the hassle, plus they are pre formed to the shape required.
  24. I generally tend to re-use fittings. If you cut the old pipe you can use a proper 6 sided socket and get them out undamaged. Original Toyota stuff is often better quality then new. I normally use this style of flaring tool. There are much better and less fiddly tools for professional use but these do the job. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht172-automotive-pipe-flaring-kit/ The pipe clamps in with the end coming out of the tapered side and use of the correct bit creates a bubble end. If you need a concave end, the bit is removed and the press part is used on it's own. Note - these tools don't work well on steel although it can be done. I generally find the slightest bit of rust on a steel pipe and they crumble anyway so i normally completely replace them rather than splicing in a short section.
  25. Good morning all, I am currently restoring my celica gen 7 and have noticed the rear caliper hose fittings & pipe are in a bad way. When the time comes I might need to make section. I know brake pipes on Japanese cars have double flared ends & require a convex inner seat union to seal against. So my shopping list is : 3/16 Copper Nickel Pipe Sealey VS0350 Pipe cutter An inline brake pipe flaring tool that can do both SAE bubble & inverted flare. (Recommendations please as I will be cutting my original steel one as well) 2 x bubble flare unions. 6 x fittings (M10 x 1mm) but can they all be the same? Sorry if that sounds a stupid question, but i am unsure if i need specific ones for the 4 bubble & 2 double. Any tips & advice on where and what to buy would be appreciated.
  26. Time will tell mate.....I was going to do the whole thing but it defeats the reason why these are left shiny silver.
  27. I painted the exhaust manifold heat shield on my gen6 with high-temp Cerakote. It's a bit of a palava & you need an HVLP gun etc but it's held up perfectly. Looks like BBQ paint will do the job too though
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.