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  1. Past hour
  2. Yep. New thermostat looks good.

    20211020_192236.jpg

  3. Coolant bottle cleaning. After soaking it in white spirit overnight, rinsed it out. Put sharp sand in and did a whole load of shaking. Found some 10mm gravel and added that in and spent a long time shaking. Then shaking some more. Emptied it out. Rinsed it out with the hose then put the sand and gravel back in. More shaking. Think I might make a good cocktail shaker! Arms wrecked though. Emptied it out again. Rinsed it out with the hose again. Washed it out with hot water and washing up liquid then left it to soak overnight with fresh washing up liquid and hot water. Rinsed it out again this evening. What a transformation. Couple of very small areas I just couldn't get clean but a massive improvement. Almost 100%. And I'll be able to see the coolant level through the bottle. Yay! Ready to go back in the car. Super long life coolant has arrived. New Thermostat has arrived too although I haven't opened the box yet. Hope its the right size. I got a couple of new hose clips too. Not sure when I'll put it back together. Might be the weekend.

    20211020_185032.jpg

    20211020_185050.jpg

  4. This looks to be what I would loosely group as an "underseal" type of product. That is to say, it is something along the lines of an oil or bitumen type goo that can can be put on top of paintwork and may offer some additional corrosion protection. I've used such things in the past but not for a very long time (except for the insides of cavities). I tend to believe that if you have a really good paint system in place, they don't do much for you. They are all permeable to oxygen and water. In fact, I think they tend to conceal areas where rust is trying to make a come back, as it always will. So Waxoyl, Dinitrol and stuff like this generally don't interest me.
  5. Today
  6. Points taken , I do however think that it’s worth looking at their website to find out more about it, they seem to have been around for about 35 years. JCB, National Trust, Environment Agency etc seem to have been customers. I would also recommended looking at YouTube videos to see it being applied. It just looks to me like a very good alternative to Waxoyl Dinitrol etc with the advantage that it seems to be much easier to apply. I’ve no axe to grind here, I just became aware of the product and thought others may be interested or may have used it and could pass on their experience of it.
  7. Club logos appeared today. Nice touch with member name built in. Had to come in for a coffee to settle my nerves, as could hardly hold onto the steering wheel, that much speed now in 'er, since fitting those stickers!
  8. Yesterday
  9. If you want a good rust treatment use this stuff. But what is better is removing it in the first place. I have done both methods and all depends on what and where you are treating rust. If you can remove the part and put it in a solution then that's better.
  10. You have to ask what is the chemical basis of the product? Rusting is an electrochemical reaction which is now very well understood scientifically. Similarly, the electrochemical routes to stopping (or at least impeding rust) are well understood. The big paint companies (e.g. PPG) have research labs in different countries with lots of scientists working on this; when it comes to bridges, oil rigs, ships, rust is HUGE business. So, where do these Lanoguard products fit in to the scheme of things? "All that glitters, is not gold".
  11. I’ve just recently become aware of Lanoguard rust prevention/ treatment products. It certainly looks good and easier to apply than other products. Does anyone have experience in using it and it’s effectiveness ?
  12. You get your own little shop window where you can advertise you skills/products. Have a look in the Corp section.
  13. Would you like to consider going as a corporate member for £15 per year.
  14. Time Left: 1 month and 27 days

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    Hi there, I have a set of st182 gen 5 celica seats for sale. They have been reupholstered by me in quality automotive grade European manufactured vinyl. The plastic backs were ripped, so they’ve been stripped down, fitted with new foam and reupholstered in grey vinyl. Seat centres are pleated. All of the seats and the plastic backs are embellished with top stitching. All other parts of the seat eg. Belt buckles, plastic trims are original used Toyota parts. Please note that the sale of these seats includes exchange of your old seats so I can continue to provide this service as these seats are getting thin on the ground. The driver seat is a standard non-lumbar support seat. For those of you that have a lumbar support driver seat, the cover can be swapped over onto your seat. For people with GT4’s, the seat rails of the front seats are different as the GT4 seat rails are narrower, although the cushions themselves are the same. The rear seat base of the GT4 is different too, however covers can be manufactured for the GT4 upon request and would take approximately 2 weeks to turn around. Palletised delivery is available, and would be quoted upon request as the cost would vary depending upon location. If delivery is required a £150 refundable surcharge would be added on to the price until your old seats are collected, at which point the surcharge would be returned to you. Thank you for viewing my advert. Best Regards Ahmad

    £995.00

    London

  15. Last week
  16. Thanks folks. Little update. To clarify better, I had removed the leather skin from the seatfoam base, but the leather skin has a thin 4mm foam sewed to back of it, which also had some oil stains, so I carefully cut it away, to leave the bare rough underside of the leather. I sprinkled lots of bicarbonate powder onto it, and left for 6 hours. Not much improvement, so oil must be soaked into the leather. I then mixed some becarbonate with vinegar, and brushed on this foamy residue, then let it dry in. I then scrubbed with warmsoapy water, then added some leather food cream to replace the natural oils. Smell seemed to have gone,so I carefully remounted the leather skin the best I could onto my stripped clean cloth seat foam, and congratulated myself on saving the £240 to recover my cloth seat base. The day after today), I went to work, and my car is smelling of oil again. Oil smell seems to be coming out of the leather itself, and prob noticeable, as the car has no air moving through it, when parked up. 3 of those little neutragenia house air freshner tubs now in, but looks like I'm de-skinning the flaming skin again, to try the suggestions above. Think the lesson here is, if you are buying leather, if the back seat base foam, is not a perfect unstained yellow, don't go near it with a bargepool!
  17. Answering this on the basis/assumption that this is just the foam that is contaminated . . . Have you tried using the 'Swarfega' hand cleaner? As this is specifically designed to remove oil/grease from your hands then I would expect it to be OK for the foam.Try a small area first though. I use it to remove oil/grease from Cotton/Linen fabrics without damage.To get the best use you need to rub /massage the Swarfega into the item then leave it for 2-3 hours to do it's work.Wash out with warm soapy water ( i use the green blocks of household soap for this). I accept that there is a smell to the Swarfega, however this is removed when washed with the soapy water, just repeat if the odour is still there. You may have to repeat the process to get all the oil out but it will get it. Most import thing is to massage the swarfega in and LEAVE IT to work on the oil, if you just wash immediatley it will not work. Last point to mention is try to avoid getting swarfega on the leather as it will happily remove all the 'good oils/waxes' from the leather.If it gets on the leather just wipe it off asap and apply leather balm etc. I suggest you only use Swarfega, would avoid the other cheaper/unknown brands. Hope this helps with the problem
  18. One of thhe best things for absorbing odours is sodium bicarbonat (Baking Soda). Usually this is sprinkled on fairly liberally, worked into the item gently (maybe with a soft brush) and left overnight. Then vacuum it up. May need a couple of repeats. Has the oil staining come through the leather to the front surface? I also googled 'How to remove smell of engine oil' and a number of products came up - including the Dr Beckmann Stain Devils range. They have one for Lubricant & Grease and another for Odour Remover. Also one called StressNoMore professional strength for dried in stains and Odour Destroyer (although I have not heard of this one). Only other option is to ask an upholsterer or car trimmers for their opinion.
  19. So I've dropped the old coolant, if that's what you want to call it. Not sure it was doing much cooling by the state of it. Nasty shade of very dark brown. Full of rusty bits. Removed the thermostat (that's seen better days) and refitted the housing before flushing the system with the hose. Flushed the rad too. Both passing clean water now. Then remembered I needed to turn the temperature control in the centre console to hot. So, got the hose back out again... and flushed the engine again. No dirty water coming out. I'll flush it again before I put it all back together. Thinking I might do it again in a year's time. Maybe add some system cleaner first. Now I've got the old thermostat out I can make sure I get the correct replacement. Also going to get a new clip for the bottom rad hose. Looking quite rusted. The others all look fine. Removed the coolant reservoir and gave it a rinse out. Pretty nasty in there. I've put some white spirit in it and left it to soak. See how that goes. Not really expecting much Improvement though. Wondering if Killrock might clean it. Supposed to be safe on plastics. Next bash at it at the weekend, assuming I can get the new thermostat, clip and coolant.

    20211013_204141.jpg

    1. Old Red Celica

      Old Red Celica

      Fill the coolant bottle with rice/sand and use that to scrub the inside of the coolant tank, then rinse thoroughly. Kettle de-scaler also works (rinse and rinse again).

       

       

       

      Refill using Toyota Super Long Life coolant.

    2. Mark B

      Mark B

      Fab. Thanks very much for the tip.

    3. Mark B

      Mark B

      Toyota Super Long Life coolant ordered. Hopefully be delivered tomorrow so I can use it at the weekend. Yeah the Killrock stuff I mentioned is a kettle de-scaler. Works well on the kettle. I'll give the sand a try first though. I have some sharp sand.

      Note to self - stop faffing with Celica stuff and get some work done...:)

  20. Earlier
  21. Hi Jim,

    Thank you for your reply.

    Just to make sure, I should order this one: 2 small breather lines with 35mm lower diameter pipe

    Thanks,

    Andy

    1. Jim881

      Jim881

      Yes mate. Here's mine that I'm replacing. 

      2 smaller breathers. 

      20211013_142226.jpg

  22. Yup. I selected silver in the drop down box, and when I re-checked my membership, it confirmed I had picked silver.
  23. You won't. Did you select the colour of personalised stickers? Also they get done in batches, usually about a months worth at a time.
  24. Hi folks. I really hope someone on here can help. I bought a leather interior to replace my cloth, and it looked in good condition, bar the driver's seat outer bolster. So left in with trimmer, who did a great job. Fast forward a week later, and after fitting into my car, there's a terrible stench of engine oil. Pulled the base part of the rear seat out, and the foam base was oozing out oil onto my floor, and obviously previous owner had left it lying on an oily floor. Tosser! Anyways, I have carefully removed the leather skin from the oil soaked foam, but the thin 4mm foam lining on back of leather was also oil stained in 1 small area. I have removed this foam, and haves scrubbed the back surface of the leather with washing powder, cillit stain remover, fairy liquid, hot soapy water, leather cleaner cream, and spray bleach cleaners. Nothing is removing the smell, and I am scared to use anything stronger, in case I breakdown the leather. Soooo I'm hoping someone can pass some worldly advice, so I can re-cover my cloth base, to match the rest of the now minty leather.
  25. On a side note, I joined up couple weeks back, and never got my silver club stickers, or any envelope of goodies neither!
  26. Celica back on the road. Living the dream again? Erm well sort of. I can feel that under-lying Celica-ness while driving. Haven't felt that in a few years. Its good to be back! But... needs a few jobs doing to it, probably in part due it being off the road for the past four years but mainly just due to age. Welding all done at least and passed the MoT. Apparently there are some cavities near the suspension mount that fill up with water. There's a cap on the bottom to stop muck getting in but its also stopping water getting out. Mechanic temporarily removed the cap from the near side that doesn't need welding and about a litre of water came out. So this was the cause of the problem on the off-side. So some holes in that cap now to let the water out.

    Anyone have any ideas why its filling up with water in the first place? Might there be a blocked drain somewhere? Any ideas where?

    I suppose I should get it wax oiled.

    Ok so the first job: coolant change. What type of coolant does it need? What quantity? And are there any bleed valves I need to use or do I just use the standard process for changing the coolant?

    I want to fully flush it out though too so I'll probably need to get a thermostat gasket so I can do that properly. Also, you can't see through the sides of the coolant tank so it's difficult to judge the quantity of coolant in the tank. Currently guessing by the amount of moisture on the drop hose in the tank filler neck. I wonder if it might be possible to remove the tank and clean it out? If not I might look for a new one.

    Finally joined the club as a full member.

    I'm guessing this is the best place in the Celica Club site to post my updates.

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