Jump to content

Welcome to Celica Club UK

Welcome to Celica Club UK, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information. Take advantage of it immediately, Register Now or Sign In.

  • Start new topics and reply to others
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Add events to our community calendar
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Customize your experience here
  • Use the wealth of knowledge our members have to help with any questions you may have.


Club Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


slybunda last won the day on July 14

slybunda had the most liked content!

About slybunda

  • Birthday 08/03/1980

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Model
    VVTL-i 184

Recent Profile Visitors

2,118 profile views

slybunda's Achievements


Supercharged (12/13)




Community Answers

  1. Ahh thats the other thing i was gonna ask. If changing the condenser do i just get seals that go on the condenser? Should i not touch the seals on the compressor side unless im opening up the pipes to the compressor? From the sounds of it i should change all the seals compressor and condenser side to be on the safe side. Also from reading around it seems nissens is oem for volvo. However if you go main dealer for nissens condenser you will get nissens made in Sweden. Aftermarket nissens is made in china depending which car its for. So dunno...
  2. Odd iv had the gen7 for 8 years and when i first got it it waa 13 years old and ac did work but was never mega cold unless driving on motorway. Over time it lost its kick. Iv got various cars over 10 years old that have never been regassed and are still cold. Mums 2004 astra was regassed but didnt last a few months so has to be leaking. And leaks are usually from the condenser. Also that dryer thing may be like a silica gel packet you get in boxes that ship out electronic goods to absorb any moisture. Gonna get condenser sorted first before i go for a gas job. Dunno if they oil the system before or if i need to oil it up when condenser is fitted. Job looks easy like changing coolant rad. Probably easier since no bleeding etc needed. Bumper off job though. As mentioned above if nissens and valeo is oem then im gonna try and stick with them for a replacement.
  3. The receiver dryer canister is attached to the condenser but does it come empty and need the dryer added to it?
  4. is 1zz and 2zz same on ac side of things like condenser and orings etc?
  5. i thought the rads are made of aluminium so shouldnt rust. also anyone made a shopping list of parts needed to change condenser? i get its the: condenser O rings pag46 oil?????? receiver dryer? dont know its it comes with the condenser??
  6. I don't want to get a cheapo crap quality one since if it gives problems then its gonna cost more with repeated regassings. Iv seen a few brands like frigair, nissens, nrf, valeo, daisis etc but not sure which brand to go with. Valeo iv seen as original factory fit in many different cars but not sure if the original celica one is valeo or denso.
  7. Im after a condenser too. Looks like prices have risen up a bit. Do they come with o rings or is that extra?
  8. That esso fuel is silly high price here. I just stick with momentum99. Shame ecu is encrypted and cant be mapped to make better use of high octane. 2zz would probably put out the full 190 then lol.
  9. Removing ethanol from fuel will lower its octane rating. Dunno if its a issue for lawn mowers?
  10. Id question it. Iv been doing a lot of reading up on this and seen a lot of youtube vids now and it seems to be that pipe bending is a lot harder and expensive to do since decent computer controlled mandrel benders cost over 25k and price goes up sharply from that if wanting a unit than can do 3 inch or larger pipes. Various forums and blogs i checked (yes got a lot of free time) say welded joints are areas where there can be a restriction in flow due to the weld not being smooth inside the pipe and also being failure points where corrosion can start at. Generally it seems to be that exhaust builders that dont want to outlay the cash for a cnc mandrel bender go with welding which is a cheaper option for the shop. Im surprised since a shop that does so much exhaust work hasnt invested in a proper mandrel bending machine. The sharper bends are done with machines that fill pipe with sand or real expensive ones use liquid like water called hydroforming. Interesting videos to watch on YouTube.
  11. was just interested really as to why they used that approach.
  12. Debs how come your exhaust has so many welded joints? I would have thought they would have single pieces bent to shape.
  13. Would going 2.5 all the way from cat to backbox cause power loss then?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.