_Chris_

If lambda is spot on then high CO is likely to be cat itself or an exhaust blow on the engine side of the cars lambda sensor. It can also be imbalence between cylinders caused by injector issues or air leak in one of the intake runners but that's less likely. With unknown history and if there's no obvious exhaust blow I would start with cat.

Point me at the for sale thread when you've sorted a price in case I miss it as I don't think for sale comes up in the new content.I quite fancy a Castrol gen 5 if the price is right.

Can't beat a nice sunset picture. I try and stay off main roads in winter in any cars I care about. They tend not to salt the smaller roads much nowadays.

Paints can be sprayed into cavities, the biggest problem is access and how far a spray gun will spray. Access is down to design and is made much easier during or after rust repair when there ar big holes while repairing and the ability to leave a well places access hole plus a rubber bung. I normally use parafin guns which often come in the free tool kit with many cheap compressors - it may be possible to extend the nozzles further, I haven't looked as I haven't needed to yet. Avoid going too hot with waxoil as there's a risk of explosion or fire. I think the instructions say to place in a bowl of hot water.

From memory, the waxoyl presurises the can and pushes the wax out directly so works differently to a normal spray gun which uses a venturi to suck up the paint to mix with the airflow. I would imagine it will need to be thinned massively to work in this way, but then it would probably give a more manageable, thinner coat. I also remember heat being the prime thing that thinned the stuff.

Looks an interesting article, I'll have a closer look at it later. The conformal coating is designed for PCBs and there is some flex in those. All I can say is that it protected a rear wing panel on my clio for a decade, sprayed over bare metal and no other coatings. The silicone based conformal tends to stay a bit tacky which is why I don't use it but it may be better as a final coating in non visible areas. I doubt you'd get anything to stick on top of it.

This is the section you need: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/facilities-cleaning-maintenance/electronics-cleaners-protective-coatings/conformal-coatings/ This is what I usually use: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conformal-coatings/4090956 They seem to have changed brands since the last time I bought it in liquid form, I'll try and track it down. What started me using conformal years ago I had a scrape on an old clio which leftt a big area showing bare metal. I sprayed some conformal over to stop it rusting before it went for repair. It was written off so I bought it back and drove it round in that state for years. No sign of rust. For prep, it's best to get off as much rust as possible, obviously not possible inside cavities. I then usually use a converter such as kurust followed by red oxide primer then conformal coating. After that whatever coating / paint / underseal etc.

I see 2 major issues with cavity wax. From painful experience, if you do any welding on treated areas it works like candle wax and burns with great difficulty extinguishing. I nearly lost car and workshop. I ended up disconnecting the CO2 bottle from the welder, pulling open a rear trim and flooding the whole sill area with CO2 to put it out. In my view, a thick layer of wax in the sills or other box areas will block any drain holes. Any area coated blind by shoving in a pipe and pumping is likely to create ridges which will trap water plus areas that have been missed altogether. My preferred method currently is to use conformal coating as used in the electronics indistry to coat electronics for damp environments. It is moisture repellant and has fungicides etc. This just goes on like a laquer and can be sprayed inside sills with spray gun/ parafin gun and should only form a thin layer. It's available in rattle cans or liquid form.

Fairly easy for me as I love sunsets. The middle pic was a sunset in a million, despite the journey ahead I just had to detour stop for photos. I still really love the moonfleet one though because of the feeling of peace and tranquility with the flat calm water. Access is via about 2 miles of track which was barely passable then, I haven't tried it since. To keep it fairly general, how about a picture of your celica next to a funny road sign.

NOt the one I'm looking for. This one is from 2009 on the way down to the European GT4 meet in Switserland. Still in England at this point near Southampton. Found it. 2007 I think.

A shame I can't find the photo I took for the GT4OC calendar just after I bought my first GT4. It was taken on the beach at the moonfleet with the chessel beach in the background. For anyone who knows the area, there used to be a remnant of a bouncing bomb on the beach as this was the area used for the training for the famous dam busters raid. The remnant was, however, found by people in authority and taken to a local museum. On the other hand, this photo features Ezzy, not just a grey 185

It's not uncommon to have unused connectors anyway as manufacturers tend to have standard looms which include all the options. If your standard main beam lamps are disconnected then these could be the origanal connectors. Provided they can't short onto anything there's no issue, if they could then tie them to the loom so that they can't.

You can check the control system by linking the 2 pins in the loom and check the fan goes off. If it waqs working before the rad change it's most likely the sensor was damaged swapping it over.

Haynes manual is talking rubbish. If you look in the sticky topics at the top of the gen 5 section you'll find the genuine Toyota ones in pdf form. The sensor which drives the fan is on the bottom tank of the radiator, next to the big water outlet pipe. It's a normally closed sensor, i.e. it opens to bring the fan on. If you've forgotten to plug it back in after changing the radiator the fan will always run. If that doesn't cure it, there is a sensor in the aircon pipework at the back of the engine bay, passenger side, near the diagnostic connector. Again, that brings on the fan permanently if it's unplugged.

DONT USE RADWELD. It is designed to fill and seal leaks, that tends to include the smaller pipes in the sytem which then stops the system working. There shouldn't be any coolant esxaping except through the expansion bottle at the side. It it's on the heatshield it's probably coming from the radiator itself, which either means the cap isn;t sealing on top or the pipe is missing from the radiator to the expansion tank. As per picture below, except radiator cap is usually in the middle of the radiator and not one side.