ams

Can work both ways, I've bought cars from members on here that have had some serious (and even dangerous) bodges. And to add to that Ive seen work by "specialists" of the same quality. Really need to get the car checked out properly I guess....

lots of dogs but lots of good cars just because it has a lot of service stamps doesnt mean its not rotten and vice versa - no service history doesnt mean its a dog main thing is getting a good look underneath and seeing how it drives im regretting parking mine up now - it never let me down and is still solid underneath but I need a change now so wont be bringing it back

i have a set but one rubber foot is missing - will find it when i tidy up one day

I don't think they ever use the info, so many places online making "show plates" without asking for docs it makes a mockery of the whole scheme

aftermarket kit would be easier to fit than trying to refit the factory one there is a member on here who has done it

Started training for london to brighton last week so ive been doing my 13 mile (each way) commute on the bike With traffic in the morning in the car it takes around 40 mins to an hour and its almost always an hour on the way back Got back in an hour and 4 minutes on the bike yesterday so its a no brainer now to become a regular thing until it gets icy, getting quicker each ride as well as I get more familiar with the cycle paths

Barrel price is creeping up combined with slightly weaker £ to $ Just need to hope the barrel price doesnt get back up over $100 whilst the £ is weak

are the pads stuck in the carriers?

stuck pads, siezed piston or a seized pins in the carrier

So the advice has always been to finger tighten them and apply loctite. I found on more than one occasion when customers brought cars in with them fitted that when I removed the wheel nut the stud would come out with it. Whenever I have fitted them I have applied loctite and used the 2 nut 2 spanner method to tighten them and Ive never seen one come back out.

Yes because people dont use the locks because they always use the fob - the cars are now 12-18 years old I usually find the drivers lock is ok but the other 2 can be seized. The other thing is that if your key will have worn to your barrel over time - but your lock wont have had the same wear. If you keep a lot of keys on the bunch (or keyrings) it slowly wears the key and barrel away - as it constantly swings with weight on it as you drive.

The way the inside lock is on the Celica it's very hard to push with something from the outside. You have to open the lock before pulling the handle id be careful about using the airbag to push the window out as I think it would bend the regulator - but the gen7 window regulators are dirt cheap as well anyway. use normal oil and dip the key in it and then run it in and out of the lock, dip again and repeat, each time try the lock both ways. I would try this for about an hour. the bonnet release runs under the drivers side wheel arch.you will need to remove the plastic arch liner. But to open it you will need to cut the outer cover so that you can pull on the cable inside. You will then need to replace the cable. It's the same setup as bicycle brake cables. Keep trying the lock the way I said above - just gentle though - be patient it will work.

if the insurance company have taken it away just bear in mind that you many have to pay to have it recovered back to you

they shouldnt really be offering it you if its going to be a cat B Keep it, remove the engine and my an mr2 with a blown engine to swap in

if you get really stuck - smash one of the door glasses - I have them for £10 , dont break the small quarter glass but would put oil on the key and then push it in and out lots of times - adding oil each time - that usually frees them off

I sold a mint red premium one with a rebuilt engine for £950 about 5 years ago. That only had 92,000 on it. It took a fair while to sell as well. The prices have only fallen since then.

Wont do any harm changing it but if you have a sports cat with a low cell count then the code is just telling you that its not good enough

just give the rest a tug, use a screwdriver under it and pull

That sounds like the Alarm ECU is faulty- I have a few cheap - drop me a message if you need one

are you using the fob to unlock the car or the physical key?

420 is cat not sensor

Sunroof sounds like the chains in the mechanism are gone - I have some mechanisms going fairly cheap if you need one When you changed the calipers did you change the carriers too? How much is the imbalance?

I personally think 1285 for a 140 is quite a good price. Although you insured it with a value of £2000 - thats not the same as an agreed value policy (usually applied to classic cars) - that usually requires a valuation to be performed or pictures etc to be sent in before they agree it on policy. You can pick up facelift 190s with similar mileage in good condition for that sort of money now. facelift 140s with 100k on the clock rarely fetch over a £1000 these days

Unfortunately the engine counts for nothing - unless you have specialist insurance with agreed value Whats the mileage on the car?

i was doing 650 miles a week on a 280,000 miles car until recently When the car was newer I was regularly doing 1500-2000 miles a week. I have converted my car to LPG which costs about 10p a mile on average