Bumblebee

Those camber bolts are for the front not rear, not sure if you realised that. To change out the rear camber bolts and toe bolts il warn you now. It can be a pig of a job. Worst case bolts will need cutting if they are stuck in the bushes. Bushes will need replacing. You'll need a good day to do it on your own on the drive. Quicker to have the bushes burnt out at a local garage and have them press new bushes in if you don't have the gear. Plenty of copper grease on the bolts when you bolt it back up Also check the rear subframe around the camber arms mountings. They corroded badly

Unfortunately if you go for a full on track set up you will compromise on comfort , the car will follow the camber of the road and white lines if you have a wheel on them. Doesn't make for an enjoyable ride tbh. Part of the reason mines now only track use. For the road you should be able to get plenty of camber on the rear using original camber bolts. Unfortunately the bolts tend to sieze into the inner sleeve of the bush and the easiest way to get them out is to drop the rear subframe for access. Rear toe is adjustable , if bolts aren't siezed. They can be a pita to remove. I've had to cut the bolts in the past. Front camber, if you don't have adjustable top mounts you can buy camber bolts. From memory they are 15mm and are available from Gt4-play on line. Not expensive. A stiffer rear arb will help If fitting strut braces, don't buy cheap. Total waste of money

After melting a piston on the dyno last year I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild. Just need some cash for the pistons and another dyno session, new tuner this time

Full rewire on the gen7 track car. Done away with fuses and relays by using a pdm. New race dash. It's been a huge learning curve for me even though I had the engine loom made for me. Well on the way now, well hopefully.

OK by me

Sorry, can't give you any help with a price. Just wanted to welcome you to the old buggers club. Enjoy your retirement

You can easily check the clearance Piece of kids playdoh or something like it placed in the hole, fit the sensor, remove sensor and playdoh and measure thickness. No guessing then

Maybe it's my eyesight but I can't ever remember seeing a shim under the sensor and I've had a few out over the years

I'd only use mild steel tbh. Galv plate welded to mild steel can accelerate corrosion if welded to mild steel. Ships have zinc plates on their hulls which are used as sacrificial anodes. They corrode away before the mild steel. Stainless can be a pita to work and I'd need a roll of dissimilar welding wire to weld it on. Trying to keep it easy , hence asking for sills

I'd rather spend the time and make new ones if that's the case tbh. We will see

Does anyone know who sells full replacement sills for a 2002 gen 7 celica ? Looks like I've got some welding to do and I'd rather replace the full sill than have to make one up Thanks

A day out with my boy

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Give Stephen Gillies at gt4-play a call for parts . Genuine toyota bit usually much cheaper