toiletduck Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Hey guys - I've been trying to google this one, but figured I may as well see if anyone has any nice solutions - I want to take my rear calipers off to paint and refurb, but really can't be arsed to have to empty the whole system of fluid. I was thinking of some kind of nut and bolt through the banjo circle instead of a banjo bolt would prevent fluid loss? Not sure which bolt (and potentially washers) I'd need though. Feels like it'd be a bit easier if I could just get an old banjo bolt welded shut! Any thoughts or better solutions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKINY Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 just stick a bit of rag through it and tie it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toiletduck Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Is that enough to stop it if I leave it a few days though? Option two was baggie and tie wrap around the banjo circle bit, might be a bit more straightforward... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davem45r Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 Baggies easiest, suitable sized nut and bolt with a couple of fibre washers shouldn't be a problem either. It's a good opportunity to change the fluid if that hasn't been done recently, and it's not much more effort than a quick bleed through (which you're going to need to do anyway) if you have an assistant. Think that banjo bolts are m10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toiletduck Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 People seem to make a really big fuss about not letting the master cylinder get low though? Is that just to save bleeding all four corners anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trebor4460 Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) A suitable sized pin and nut and a couple of copper crush washers should do it. You don't want to risk getting air in the antilock brake module so best not let the master cylinder run dry Edited July 5, 2014 by Trebor4460 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splinter Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 not sure on the damage side of things, as not tried it, but cant you just get a rag wraped around it then a sat of vice grips on the braided section, just enough pressure to stop a leak? other than that, a bolt/nut and two washers will be fine. and yeah, its not so much the master cylinder, its getting air through the ABS modul;e that can be a royal pain in the ass to bleed through properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazza1286 Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 These have served me well over the years for splitting the hydraulics. The rubber washers seal banjo fittings reasonably well. Bath tap washers as I recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkey Boy 1 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 not sure on the damage side of things, as not tried it, but cant you just get a rag wraped around it then a sat of vice grips on the braided section, just enough pressure to stop a leak? other than that, a bolt/nut and two washers will be fine. and yeah, its not so much the master cylinder, its getting air through the ABS modul;e that can be a royal pain in the ass to bleed through properly. The problem with this is that inside the braided hose is a plastic tube, once this is crushed the then the inner bore of the does not return to it's original size, plus you could split it and the braiding will hide up any damage. Rubber hosing can be clamped using some thin nose mole grips with a couple of sockets on the end. Round edges dont damage the hose. Make up some clamps like Gazza 1286 has shown, they look simple, cheap & effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragon queen Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Another tip I was taught was to put a polythene bag on the master cylinder and screw the cap on, really does slow the fluid down 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkey Boy 1 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Another tip I was taught was to put a polythene bag on the master cylinder and screw the cap on, really does slow the fluid down Creates a vacuum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKINY Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 mine were off for about a week fecking about doing bits and bobs and i had them just tied up, after the initial disconnecting fluid loss the amount that leaked out was less than a thimble full easy. i kept the lid on the fluid bottle also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
princy Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 m10 nut, bolt and washers has always been the way I've done it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ams Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 People seem to make a really big fuss about not letting the master cylinder get low though? Is that just to save bleeding all four corners anyway? If you let the master cylinder run dry when you press the pedal then the seals can end up inverting. If you did ever let it run out, then best to open all 4 bleed nipples and keep topping up until fluid comes out if all 4 before you lock them up and use the pedal to then bleed it properly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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