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Posted

Thanks for the input peeps. Now to decide what colour to go for.

Gun metal

Matt black

Dark bronze.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So I've got the wheels all fitted which I'm really impressed with them.
Only issue is I cant fit the 17mm spacers on the rear due to no cut outs for the original protruding studs.
So the plan is I'll get some 6mm spacers for the front which will bring the stance pretty much back to where it was and the rears im going to have to cut 8mm of the rear studs to allow the rears to take the 17mm spacers, unless anyone can think if another idea? Dont want to install new shorter studs and if I install the 27mm ones I'll have to role the arches. Does anyone know the biggest spacer you can safely run without going hubcentric?00d7ff937c41219e99ad55f810e49663.jpg90c268e14927f5d0250175d24099c77b.jpga5a9f08f1f972b16992aecc61128edf7.jpgbf0caf0eecadb86b5c3dd67c0e2c008e.jpg

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Posted

@Kev 16v

Just a question mate. I'm looking at running spacers on the front. What size can we get away with safely 5 or 6mm buddy?62ebec753c6f62a82c5174b638adb466.jpg

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Posted
All depends on how much stud you have left to get the nut on. How many turns on the nut do you get now?
I'm not sure but I think if its over 6mm there isn't any centre bore left to locate the wheel.

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Posted

There is probably a formula somewhere but I like to have at least 4-5 turns of thread on a wheel nut. By adding 5mm of spacer you remove over 3 turns of thread. So go to your current wheels and remove one wheel nut. Count how many full turns it takes to remove the nut. Each turn of the nut is 1.5mm of thread holding your wheel on. More turns on the nut, the more securely it's holding the wheel on. Not enough turns of threads holding your wheel on, the more likely it is to fall off under load.

Posted
There is probably a formula somewhere but I like to have at least 4-5 turns of thread on a wheel nut. By adding 5mm of spacer you remove over 3 turns of thread. So go to your current wheels and remove one wheel nut. Count how many full turns it takes to remove the nut. Each turn of the nut is 1.5mm of thread holding your wheel on. More turns on the nut, the more securely it's holding the wheel on. Not enough turns of threads holding your wheel on, the more likely it is to fall off under load.
That makes since mate. With a pitch of 1.5mm, 6mm would technically remove 4 full rotations of the nut.

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Posted

Glad it makes sense, Don't want you thinking that you can just fit spacers, have just 2 turns of thread and you thinking all is well.

Function over form. No point it looking pretty if the wheel has fallen off :laugh2:

Posted

So it looks like there should be a minimum of 8 full turns for m12 1.5. That means I needs 12 turns to fit 6 mm spacers.
As a standard bolt is 26mm that means there should be 17 turns on a standard bolt (26/1.5)
If I remove 6mm for the spacer that will take off 4 turns. Which now leaves 13 turns left.
As I need a minimum of 8 turns as long as the brake disc on the front is not thicker than 5 turns worth (7.5mm) it should be ok.

Does that sound about right?


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Posted

So I bought the 6mm spacer (variable centre bore) and their isnt enough centre bore left to locate the wheel on so I've left them off. I was thinking if I buy a set with the same centre bore, 54.1 this should locate perfectly on the centre bore on the wheel and hub itself. What do you guys think?

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Posted

I run H&R 10mm rear spacers with longer studs. They are like you said slip on with the centre bore to locate the wheel. 
 

I no a lot of people who run with the wheel just located on the studs but personally i like you know the wheel locates correctly. 

Posted

Hi mate,
I ran 6mm because I think I will have enough thread left without having to change studs, as it seems a right job to do......
I think I need to find a 6mm with a 54.1 bore and hubcentric ring, which is something I have only seen on hubcentric spacers.
Like I said before, I could just cut my original studs and run my 17mm but I know I'll get rubbing with 215 tyres so I'm trying to avoid this.
10mm spacers would be a perfect size. What changing the studs on the rear as awkward as everyone makes out?

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Posted

sorry not read this all through so may be giving rubbish info lol. Are yours multi fit ? I bought 5 *100 to 5 *114.3 spacers, which meant I could fit my multi fit wheels which had both, as the excess 5 * 100 studs fit through those holes in the wheels, and the 5 * 114.3 spacer ones fitted into the those ones on the wheel to actually bolt on to.

Posted
sorry not read this all through so may be giving rubbish info lol. Are yours multi fit ? I bought 5 *100 to 5 *114.3 spacers, which meant I could fit my multi fit wheels which had both, as the excess 5 * 100 studs fit through those holes in the wheels, and the 5 * 114.3 spacer ones fitted into the those ones on the wheel to actually bolt on to.
Mate.....what a fantastic idea. Yeah, mine are 5x100/114.3 Didn't even think of that!! I'm gonna get looking for spacers. Thanks mate. Just a question. I've read somewhere the 114.3 will require a different style of nut compared to the ones I have fitted on the 100 stud pattern. Do you know if this is right?

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Posted

You just need to make sure you get the right thread (m12 1.5) - some 114.3 studs are for nissans which are 1.25, but it’s nothing special about 114.3 studs in themselves.

 

got mine from freaky parts 

Posted

That's weird. Pulled this from driftworks website;

 

Double Drilled PCD Notes: When using the larger of the two pcds on JR double drilled wheels, you will require slim style internal drive wheel nuts/bolts - we have plenty of these available in the wheel nuts & bolts section here.

 

I've already got some nuts fitted to the wheels at the moment but I read that as if I needed a different type.

 

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Posted

Ah - might be the wheels then :) prob due to less space for the 114.3 holes against the rim on those particular wheels - mine didn’t have that issue. 

Posted

I've emailed the rimstyle. The company I bought them from to ask for advice. Hopefully wont have to fork out for new ones.....

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