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what have you done to your celica today...


scott64
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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Well today i made a step in the right direction as i replaced the original 4 spoke with a Gen 7, 3 spoke. Horn works,  airbag will be a long work in progress. Still first thing ive done since finishing off the Gen 7 GT Seats Pre lockdown.

DSC_1447.JPG

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BIG JOB BROKE OUT . My front number plate has been on the piss slightly for ages so got it sorted today. Plate off, slot holes slightly and replace the damned thing square at last  :drunk:

 

plate3.jpg

plate4.jpg

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  • 7 months later...

Fit new camshaft cover gasket. Been putting this off for some time as it's a big job, but following the great guide I found on here went smoothly. 

engine 2.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
4 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:

Finished making the brand new discs look pretty in anti-rust paint, 

 

and before the fitting job booked in on Wednesday  B)

 

I had my front calipers off for total 're-buildings' last week. It always amazes me that when you take the road wheels off, and the calipers off, there's nothing at all holding the discs on; as long as there's no rust, they just slide off the studs.

I'm fairly sure that on every other car I've had the discs are held on by some means. I'm not complaining - I recall times when taking the the discs off one car was "just a bit hard" :giveup:.

Edited by bazz54
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1 hour ago, bazz54 said:

 

I had my front calipers off for total 're-buildings' last week. It always amazes me that when you take the road wheels off, and the calipers off, there's nothing at all holding the discs on; as long as there's no rust, they just slide off the studs.

I'm fairly sure that on every other car I've had the discs are held on by some means. I'm not complaining - I recall times when taking the the discs off one car was "just a bit hard" :giveup:.

If you've got as far as your brake disc's falling off whilst driving, you probably noticed the handling get a little awkward just before that.

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Did you miss the bit about the road wheels needing to come off before the disc can come off? And that would require the five wheel nuts to come off before that and that's when you'd notice the handling getting awkward.

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On 24/05/2021 at 03:23, bazz54 said:

I had my front calipers off for total 're-buildings' last week. It always amazes me that when you take the road wheels off, and the calipers off, there's nothing at all holding the discs on; as long as there's no rust, they just slide off the studs.

 

Photo from 5 years ago...

9zF9BD3.jpg?1

 

Yes, the disc interfaces with the hub flange and with the wheel to hold it on.

 

My mechanic uses copper-slip on the hub flange part, which is okay but imho seems a bit too gritty.

 

When we replace the discs tomorrow i'm going to use Mintex 'Cera Tec' silicone disc brake grease though-out, so it will not only be used on the slider-pins, but also behind the pads, on flange, and between disc hub to wheel.

Wheels are replaced on my Celica twice yearly with the winter & summer wheel/tyre sets, so don't think there is strictly a need for copper-slip. 

 

Copper slip vs Ceratec https://mintex.com/copper-slip-vs-ceratec/?lang=en-gbr

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5 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:

 

Photo from 5 years ago...

9zF9BD3.jpg?1

 

Yes, the disc interfaces with the hub flange and with the wheel to hold it on.

 

My mechanic uses copper-slip on the hub flange part, which is okay but imho seems a bit too gritty.

 

When we replace the discs tomorrow i'm going to use Mintex 'Cera Tec' silicone disc brake grease though-out, so it will not only be used on the slider-pins, but also behind the pads, on flange, and between disc hub to wheel.

Wheels are replaced on my Celica twice yearly with the winter & summer wheel/tyre sets, so don't think there is strictly a need for copper-slip. 

 

Copper slip vs Ceratec https://mintex.com/copper-slip-vs-ceratec/?lang=en-gbr

 

Ceratec is fine,but I am still "old school" so the silder pins get red rubber grease instead

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5 hours ago, maizey said:

Ceratec is fine,but I am still "old school" so the silder pins get red rubber grease instead

 

Red rubber grease is silicone, and is probably high enough in heat resistance.

 

But what do you use between the hub-flange and inner disc, and outer disc to wheel?

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2 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:

 

Red rubber grease is silicone, and is probably high enough in heat resistance.

 

But what do you use between the hub-flange and inner disc, and outer disc to wheel?

 

I don't think red rubber grease is silicone; isn't it made from natural plant oils?

 

Replacing the disc after the caliper rebuild, I wiped off all traces of the old copper slip on the hub and disc...and then put on some nice new copper slip, and the same on the back of the road wheels.

 

For the caliper rebuilds I used red grease in contact with the rubber (but wetted the pistons with brake fluid), and used a syringe and a needle to put ceramic-filled silicone grease down inside the slider bores, so that deals with metal-on-metal contact. The thing that struck me is how tightly the rubber gaiters grip on the slider pins. I started off using some pattern parts, but then got some Toyota parts and found the gaiters to be about the same in the way they resist motion of the sliders, and that was using Toyota red grease too (Toyota's is actually pink!). 

 

MoT time soon, but looking good at 19 years old :).

 

 

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1 hour ago, bazz54 said:

I don't think red rubber grease is silicone; isn't it made from natural plant oils?

 

Yes, near enough.

 

"Castrol Red Rubber Grease is a medium consistency grease based on a vegetable oil and a synthetic gelling agent".

 

Red Rubber Grease.pdf

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13 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:

 

Red rubber grease is silicone, and is probably high enough in heat resistance.

 

But what do you use between the hub-flange and inner disc, and outer disc to wheel?

 

hub to inner disc - just a thin film of "multipurpose" grease or whatever i have in the garage - nothing special.

 

The red rubber grease is just for the slider pins only,nowhere else

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3 hours ago, maizey said:

The red rubber grease is just for the slider pins only,nowhere else

 

I smeared it thinly over the piston seal before inserting it the bore (though with brake fluid on the piston) and also on the dust cover that protects the outer end of the piston.

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Mission accomplished:

 

21z8gOZ.jpg

 

Replace front and rear discs, pads, slider-pins, rubbers, clips.

 

Fabulous transition, the steering wheel judder and shakes have gone, like driving a brand new car :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Fitted, new MAF Sensor on Thursday evening which, thankfully, resolved my bogging down issue. Managed to get a genuine, new Denso for £50.

Fitted stock airbox (with Butterfly valve) made up the missing part with some tube and t-pieces I ordered. Still had the 1 way valve on the car. I have no idea if it actually goes better, I didn't really notice much if any drop off with my Blitz Carbon WAI and what I think might be an improvement might just be down to perception from driving with a faulty MAF sensor for the last 2 or 3 weeks.

 

Waiting on new another stock air box to arrive, which will hopefully join some of the engine plastics on a trip to BRD for some hydro dipping.

 

Then, get rid of my tatty old, 3m Psychedelic, wrap for some more refrained.

I'm thinking

Lemon Sting

Realizacja-TFK-Krakow.jpg&f=1&nofb=1

Or Sunflower yellow

3M-Gloss-Sunflower-by-Elite-Dips-ABQ_lar

 

Assuming this contract lasts...

Edited by Freeman558
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