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Kev 16v

Pre Winter Checks

Question

So..who is up for a thread listing items that would benefit from some attention, before Frosty the Snowman makes an appearance?.

 

Hopefully a lack of apathy is shown, and a few of you take the trouble to contribute JUST ONE item, making this a worthwhile thread :please:

 

I'll "kick off" with something that can easily be forgotten..

 

1) Lubricate Fuel Flap Hinges

 

 

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1) Lubricate Fuel Flap Hinges

2) Add Screen wash that wont freeze (-10) to the windscreen wash bottle.

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New wipers

Winter screenwash 

Lube hinges

New tyres if pretty worn

 

 

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those 3 words ' pre winter checks ' made me laugh.

my exhaust is about to fall off, rear brakes are grinding / binding. front brakes are squeeling, 2 tyres are shot, and spare is punctured, half the interior is missing, and needs putting back in, and theres numerous clunks and clonks from front and rear suspension. and my idles all over the place.

i get about 3 minutes a day to work on it.
im screwed. hah

  • Haha 1

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5 hours ago, matt1280 said:

Give the locks a quick grease just in case 

Lubricant selection is important, as always. WD40 is convenient but it requires frequent reapplying as it's a very thin - which is what makes it penetrate well - it won't give long lasting satisfaction. Similarly, grease is known to collect dirt, so you may actually shorten the lifetime of your lock. You want to disperse water as that's what makes a lock seize, but avoid dirt collection. So you can use a PTFE based lubricant like this special version of WD40.

 

4 hours ago, G6-20 said:

my exhaust is about to fall off, rear brakes are grinding / binding. front brakes are squeeling, 2 tyres are shot, [..] and theres numerous clunks and clonks from front and rear suspension. and my idles all over the place.

:think: Maybe you should address all of those. Doesn't sound like your car is road worthy.

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22 minutes ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:

 

Would that be good to use on bicycle chains?

 

Personally I wouldn't use that on a bicycle chain. I used to use Finish Line ceramic wet lubes which last a while but have a bit more friction overall. I've since switched to Finish Line Dry. It's a bit more high maintenance in that it doesn't outlast a rain shower and requires reapplying much more frequently but the upside is a smoother chain action. Neither of those leave a white residue.

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My pre-winter check kicks-off sometime in October with the ritual of summer wheels coming off for a clean up and carefully put away into storage, and winter wheels wax polished / tyres checked and to go back on the car. While the wheels are off, the brakes are cleaned, slider-pins cleaned and re-lubed with silicone brake grease. The suspension is checked over and tenderly wiped around with an oily rag. This fits in well with the MOT due in November which shortly follows the annual oil/filter change with a pre MOT check over.

 

Yesterday, using a small screwdriver i 'de-stoned' the winter wheel tyre treads, a therapeutic activity fit for the rubber fetish, and  it's strange how many little stones and specially sharpened council flints get stuck in the tyre treads, i don't think they really pose a problem if left but i like the way they flick out with a little struggle and the tyres look better for it. However i did find a nasty little nail stuck in one tyre; measuring 16mm it took some pulling out.

 

Checked this tyre today and it's still inflated so i'm assuming it's okay to sign a relief :unsure:

 

ec2HlfN.jpg

Edited by Crazy Cat Lady

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1) Lubricate Fuel Flap Hinges

2) Top up reservoir with winter screen-wash

3) Grease Locks

4) Replace Wipers

5) Check Tyres for tread depth/nails & screws/pressure (which will drop as the temperature falls) 

6) Lubricate Brake Slider Pins with silicon grease

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8 hours ago, dublet said:

:think: Maybe you should address all of those. Doesn't sound like your car is road worthy.


ive been trying to, ever since i bought the car.
so far, ive changed the clutch, both c.v boots, the radiator, both rear drop-links, painted and fitted rear bumper, and a bunch of other stuff. working my way down a long arse list.

its not worthy, lol.
previous owner blatantly got a bent mot for it.
 

7 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:

Checked this tyre today and it's still inflated so i'm assuming it's okay to sign a relief :unsure:

 

ec2HlfN.jpg


what tyres are those, crazy lady

Edited by G6-20

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40 minutes ago, G6-20 said:

what tyres are those, crazy lady

 

Michelin Cross Climate - They grip really well in cold and wet, less sporty but more comfy with the higher profile on 16s.

I only use them in the winter months, on a cheap set of wheels - helps to preserve my 12 spoke fondmetals :)

 

89voxtq.jpg

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38 minutes ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:

Michelin Cross Climate - They grip really well in cold and wet, less sporty but more comfy with the higher profile on 16s.

I only use them in the winter months, on a cheap set of wheels - helps to preserve my 12 spoke fondmetals :)


chunky gaps in the tread looks good for the snow

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23 minutes ago, G6-20 said:


chunky gaps in the tread looks good for the snow

 

Yes, they score well in reviews driving on snow, i've been though a couple of winters with them but only cold and wet around here so far.

I find proper winter tyres too extreme for typical winter weather, we seem to get very cold & wet but many days turn milder going over 10º which is not really cold enough for winter tyres. The Cross Climate tyres are also quieter and better MPG than proper winters, plus they can even be used in summer if need be, so very versatile.

 

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1) Lubricate Fuel Flap Hinges

2) Top up reservoir with winter screen-wash

3) Grease Locks

4) Replace Wipers

5) Check Tyres for tread depth/nails & screws/pressure (which will drop as the temperature falls) 

6) Lubricate Brake Slider Pins with silicon grease

 

and I shall add..

 

7) lubricate wiper arm hinges with some light machine oil

 

Edited by G.Lewarne

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One for the non-daily people (or maybe just me)

 

8) put car in garage and forget about it and all of the work/upgrades it needs until a week before show/track season

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1) Lubricate Fuel Flap Hinges

2) Top up reservoir with winter screen-wash

3) Grease Locks

4) Replace Wipers

5) Check Tyres, including the spare, for tread depth/nails & screws/pressure (which will drop as the temperature falls) 

6) Lubricate Brake Slider Pins with silicon grease

7) lubricate wiper arm hinges with some light machine oil

 

I've amended #5 so that it reads "Check the tyres including the spare....

 

I've just done that on my little fleet, and it seems like I may have overlooked the spares... for a 'while' :blush:

Edited by bazz54
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1) Lubricate Fuel Flap Hinges

2) Top up reservoir with winter screen-wash

3) Grease Locks

4) Replace Wipers

5) Check Tyres, including the spare, for tread depth/nails & screws/pressure (which will drop as the temperature falls) 

6) Lubricate Brake Slider Pins with silicon grease

7) lubricate wiper arm hinges with some light machine oil

 

and my new suggestion

 

8) disconnect battery, clean terminals and clamps, apply light smear of grease or Vaseline and reconnect

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is there anything that can be done about the electric windows ? ... cos 20+ year old motors on most toyota's are gutless

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1 hour ago, G6-20 said:

is there anything that can be done about the electric windows ? ... cos 20+ year old motors on most toyota's are gutless

I can think of one car that's even more gutless and that's my Rover Saloon, but only of the driver's door. Every so often I apply some silicone spray to the rubber guides (don't get it on the main area of the glass or the upholstery). It helps a bit.

 

Going one step further would involve taking off the door cards and removing and fettling the regulator.

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