DUCKERS Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 My 1991 Gen 5 engine has a "hot oil" smell from outside after only a few miles running. Not previously noticeable inside the car but same sort of smell (but not as strong) coming into the car when the heater is turned up. Given it a good caning and no blue smoke or any smoke at all when revved No noticeable exhaust leaks Engine temperature runs normal Not using oil Is it anything to do with engine breathing or maybe overdue service? Any suggestions appreciated Duckers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Red Celica Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 Have you checked down the Spark Plug tubes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
princy Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 As above, sensible money is on rocker cover gasket or maybe dizzy oil seal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUCKERS Posted October 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 No, nothing like that. It is why I am wondering if she would benefit from a service but thought maybe someone has experienced the same "smelly" thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Red Celica Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 A service wont hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherv Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 bit weird if youre sure theres no oil leaks anywhere .If its due a service then give it a full one, opportunity to get underneath and ensure that cam cover gasket isnt weeping a little down the back of the engine and the heat from the exhaust isnt making it smell.I would definitely be tempted to pop off a few of the more accessible ppes and check them, like the pipe that comes from the cam cover on the right hand side,also have the main pipe off that goes from throttle body to air box and see if the body itself has oil in it and needs a clean.It probably will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKINY Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 every timing belt ive done on these (a lot) ive noticed the oil pump bolts are needing nipped up, most times there is a small leak from them, it can hit the exhaust eventually. a steam clean may reveal something ? has it got a cat in it? they smell when they are going but are more of an eggy/cat pish smell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david924s Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Not sure if the Celica has one but might be worth checking the crankcase breather pipe my last cars was blocked and the waste couldn't get to the charcoal canister in the emissions system so made the car smell of old hot oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUCKERS Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Ok Guys, just took out the left hand side (as you look at the engine) spark plug and the whole outside of the plug (not the sparking bit) and the h t lead tube is piss full of oil so I assume that the cam cover gaskets are fooked. Been down to local Toyota dealer and he is doing me both in and out sets for twenty quid the lot - so genuine Celica parts. Now you can probably tell by my descriptions of things that I am no mechanic, I build houses for a living, but I have decided to take on the job of changing the gaskets myself with a little help from you experts. So a few questions: 1/ Reading up on the subject in these club pages I see that members are using some sort of mastic to seal the gaskets - I asked the Toyota man about this and he says there is no mention of having to use any sealant in Toyotas guide - so if they done the job they would not use sealant so why do you??? 2/ There appears to be six posi head screws holding the cam cover on - access to some of these looks difficult - is there any trick, particularly as they need tightening back up with a torque wrench. I have also read here that someone swapped these for a bolt kit off ebay - does this make it any easier?? 3/ There is a big silver piece of kit at the back of the cam cover which I think is attached to the exhaust?? - I assume I will have to unbolt this?? Any help much appreciated Duckers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Red Celica Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Hence my question 11mins after your intial post The guys on here use a small dab of sealant just to locate the seals in place and add a little bit of insurance to the seal, think of it as more a case of a smear of glue to hold the rings in place whilst re-assembling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKINY Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 ive done a lot of these now, toyota say to put a wee bit of silicone at the corners where the gasket goes over the cam humps. personally ive never used it, just made sure both mateing surfaces are spotless. disconect the throttle body, 4x 12mm head bolts, disconect the throttle cable support and holder too, to remove the intake there are 7 i think 12mm head bolts and nuts holding it on, theres a few pipes and wires too, pictures will help. when all thats out of the way the rear screw bolts will be seen, these i find easy to remove/install with a 1/4 drive socket set with a swivel joint, the rest are handy with a screwdriver. you will also have to loosen the 2 10mm bolts on the wire cover going to the alt to enable that to be lifted so the cover can be removed. when you have the cover of you will see the gasket track, i use cotton buds and white spitit or petrol to clean this, you will probly find the centre gasket will crumble in your hand while the outer gasket will still appear new. make sure the surface on the head is spotless too, i use a wee 1/2" scraper and kitchen roll for this. when you come to re-fitting the screw bolts put them all in hand tight then(my method)start to nip them up from the rear to the front, i work from left to right and once they are all hand tight i will go over them again and give them A FINAL 1/4 TURN to finish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
princy Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I'm in the other camp, I always put a thin smear of Loctite 5980 around all the mating faces of the gaskets and I've never had one leak. The fact that pretty much every 3sge/gte on the face of the planet has developed leaks at some point in their life, some a relatively short time after a fresh OE gasket replacement tells me there's improvements that can be made to get it right. There's nothing to say either way is wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUCKERS Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Skiny Is the bit you refer to as the INTAKE the big silver piece at the back of the Rocker Cover?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKINY Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 The big silver bit the throttle body is attached to mate that sits on top of the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUCKERS Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Right guys, Had a fettle this morning and have got her stripped down to the cam cover. All pots had oil on them with no.2 almost full!! Now I'm facing the six posi head screw bolts which, as everyone says, are barely finger tight so no issues with those - I will follow Skiny's advice when tightening up. Issue now is a long black plastic strip running across the top back of the cam cover and bolted on to the cover. I assume this will have to come off??? The right hand nut is easily accessible but the left hand one is hidden behind the plastic strip so looks like a burger to attempt to get off. So I have declared for now as the new gaskets are not here yet - but any ideas on removing this rogue nut?? Thanks Duckers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKINY Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) 1/4 drive flexi joint gets them mate, wild tight for getting at. dont forget to slacken the 2x10mm on the top of the plasitic cam cover, this will enable you to lift the alternator loom to the side. oh and dont be just letting the oil into the cylinder by pulling the plug out, a big syringe with a bit of hose on it and kitchen roll on a kebeb skewer work well Edited November 1, 2015 by SKINY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUCKERS Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Thanks Skiny, Forgot to ask - do I need to take the plugs out to remover the cam cover?? Take your point about cleaning before removal though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKINY Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 no mate, could swear i had some pics but cant find them. ive a few engines about the yard so will take some pics later on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Chris_ Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 every timing belt ive done on these (a lot) ive noticed the oil pump bolts are needing nipped up, most times there is a small leak from them, it can hit the exhaust eventually. a steam clean may reveal something ? has it got a cat in it? they smell when they are going but are more of an eggy/cat pish smell Indeed, I always reccomend doing this, known a few where the leak has become bad enough to damage the gasket which is them a sump off job. Re. the op - do an oil change with mobil 1, at least it smells nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKINY Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Lmfao Chris, just stock up on magic trees too lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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