trophytr5

A friend and I were discussing this subject in the pub yesterday and he pointed out that cats have a limited life. A quick search of t'interweb says 70K to 100K miles or 10 years, less for cars used for short journeys, more for one that get really warmed up. So putting original cat in a SS system makes some sense because it's going to have to be replaced at some point even it was in stainless The problem comes when you need to replace it. What do you use?

As I recall, Mr T quoted me over £1,300 inc VAT for the mid-ection, fitted, with a 6 week wait for it to come from Japan. So, a good deal

Can I ask? - How much?

Bugger!!! If I'd known that I'd have kept the old one when the centre section was replaced with a pattern one, due to the original having rusted elsewhere

Can I ask why you opted to retain the original cat? Cost? Availability? Fear of failing MoT? I had a local guy research a making and fitting an SS system for the GT and he got stuck on geeting a cat and, strangely, the tip

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I am at a stage in life when doing my own servicing is beyond me (agility, facilities and tools) but I'll bear it in mind when getting a local garage to give a omnce overi. Also, I'll get them to reset the alignment, freeing off and lubricating the toe and camber bolts as it was an expensive PITA to get them replaced when they had seaized up a few years ago And the electrics get work out on my warm up laps. Lights on, AC on etc.

Due to the PANdemIC, my 2006 Gen 7 GT did 800 miles between MoTs last year, bringing the total to about 48,000 Until last year, it had been serviced and MoT'd every year by Mr T but, as they always managed to find something expensive to fail it it on lately, I opted for another MoT tester at the end of 2020. No issues. I am reluctant to get Mr T to service it, given the low mileage, but what recommendations would you have for a "mini" service for time, rather than distance, related items? The car isn't garaged and is usually parked in gear with the handbrake off and the negative battery terminal disconnected. When it gets used, I do a couple of laps of Peterborough's parkway system (about 30 miles) to warm everything up and make sure that it goes into lift properly Testing, and possibly replacing, brake fluid is the first thing that springs to mind Anything else?

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-norfolk-54324144

THAT'S MY OLD CAR!!!!

Turbo or not turbo, that is the question - Wiiiam Shagspear, 2020

And you'll be adding quietness!

Filling the tank and then driving to see how far you are going? You are carrying around 55 litres of fuel which would weigh something lile 50 kilos

OK, That is correct, assuming that your base is your office and not your home

Why are you not being paid for ALL your business miles, but only those over 20? AFAIK you can claim and business mileage, not reimbursed by your employer, as a business expense against your income tax

And that will be 3rd Party- Act cover only. No cover for damage to 3rd party property (including vehicles)

Quite true. There's still a myriad of offences that you can be prosecuted for even if your vehicle has passed the MOT. I used to get my local MOT tester to give the bike a look over, just to see if there was something I missed. One time he spotted that I'd used a full nut instead of the proper half nut on the rear brake and thought that the nut was half undone. Good spot

If it's to be a worthwhile restoration, do it in the original colour

This is the DVLA on the current rules https://www.gov.uk/historic-vehicles I know that my Triumph Trophy TR5 didn't have to have an MOT because, although re-registered in 1970, it was originally built in 1956 and I could demonstrate this from the factory dispatch records for the frame number. I did actually ask the DVLA to confirm that it didn't need one and they did. But it appears from the press (never the most reliable source) that vehicles FIRST REGISTERED will be exempt not firtst built

There's this on eBay. Cheap enough to experiment on http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Celica-power-steering-bottle-pas-140-1-8-vvti-gen7-breaking-190-vvtli-/112538617257?hash=item1a33d305a9:g:mCEAAOSwBlNZdxeZ

No, but there is an old trick for cleaning threads. Take a spare bolt (or nipple in your case). With a hacksaw (or Dremel if you have one), cut a slot to the bottom of the thread. Run this down the thread. Acts like a plug tap, but without the cutting action. Of course, use with care, as you don't want it breaking off in the caliper.

Avensis calipers back from Bigg Red after being "re-manufactured"

Shiny, shiny!!!

It is my view that corrosion is caused by a) salt, damp and c) temperature. Drive a car in winter so it picks up salt, leave it damp, then stick the car in a warm (relatively!!) warm garage where there is little air circulation and, bingo - rust. My motorcycle is washed when it comes home dirty, left outside to dry and then put in the garage - no corrosion

I had a Parrot fitted n my GT. There is now a connector in the cubbyhole with USB, line-in and 30 pin iPod connectors. The installation instructionsprovide for either line-in or ISO connectors to connect the Parrot to the rear of the head unit. So it can be done I recall a thread on whether the stock head unit has an ISO connector or whether you need an adaptor but you can search for it a well as I can. Good luck