_Chris_

Someone didn't hold the ratchet head square when pulling the handle. I would suggest application of heat from a blowtorch then use an air chisel or SDS drill & chisel on hammer only. Hold towards middle first to make a notch then turn so it's hammering it undone.

First, good application of heat on the nut from a blowtorch. Then air chisel (or sds drill with rotation switched off) firstly pointing direct in towards centre to make a notch, then turn so it's hammering to undo.

It's spelt Shutz. You get a special spray gun that screws directly into the tins to apply it. This is the stuff I use.

I had bad experience with hammerite many years ago in that I painted the drivers floorpan which had surface rust on it. 6 months later my foot went through it. I was an old escort though so made out of baked bean cans. I tend to be a bit skeptical about some of the newer 'wonderpaints' for the same reason, so I tend to go the more traditional route of red oxide paint onto the metal. I then tend to do a layer of 'conformal coating' - something we use in electronics as it's moisture repellant, and finally a layer of underseal for it's anto chip properties. I have been told waxoil isn't great on the exterior as it's too soft and gets washed / brushed off fairly quickly. I normally use this for inner structure such as inside sills, doors etc. The most important thing is to get as much rust as possible off first, and above all ensure it's absolutetly dry so you're not sealing in moisture - otherwise it will rot quicker than ever. Don't underestimate how long it takes for moisture to evaporate from nooks & crannies - especially if there is still dirt or rust in them.

It's not unknown for people to drill holes to fit sideskirts and not seal them properly allowing water to get in to the sills. I know the gen 5 sunroof drains also went into the sills, not sure about later models. The usual mot bodge is to slap a plate over and weld round. To do properly involves cutting the rusty area right out including inner structure and welding in new metal, ideally replacing the whole sill but can be done with just a patch butt welded. Not a massive task but commercial welders tend to charge a lot.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8316230/download_pdf/st205_3s_gte_rev3_engine_supplement_rm398e.pdf p.60 (EG 32) The markings for 0 and 10 are on the cam belt cover. Worth marking the 10 degree one with white. When setting, make sure your head is placed so that the 10 degree mark is in line with the crank pulley center to avoid paralax error. It all works by strobe action - the voltage pulse for the spark triggers a very short flash from the timing light, illuminating the TDC line on the pulley at that moment against the fixed scale on the belt cover. The E1-TE1 link fixes timing at 10 degrees as far as the ECU is concerned, so you adjust the distributer (ECU triggers) until you actually get 10 degrees.

Changing dizzy cap won't affect the timing, you would need to loosen the 2 bolts holding the dizzy to the head for that. On the other hand, knowing your symptoms it would be worth checking anyway. Link E1 & TE1 and verify engine light is flashing, then check pulley mark lines up with 10 degree mark.

Many years ago in an old escort van with a sloping front, I had a pigeon take off & try to outrun me. It didn't quite manage it and there was a small thump as it hit the sloping bit just above the windscreen. When I looked later there was a brown line running up, looks like it was worried at least.

Sounds like you know what you're letting yourself in for. I know exactly what you mean about projects for love not common sense, I have too many of them

Paul has made a couple of very valid points in his remark. Firstly, there is a multi direction compromise between power, ecconomy, reliability, drivability and comfort. The more you push at one, the more you lose on the others. I know many people with highly nodified GT4's that take a standard one for a blast and when they get back realise what they've lost in the comfort and drivability directions. Secondly, a well modified GT4 engine is a handful even in a GT4. In a FWD chassis I can see lots of scary moments ploughing straight on towards walls/ hedges etc. at the slightest touch of throttle. It always pays to realise what you're getting into before spending lots of money.

It would help to know your location. Without knowing that, I would think MK autos in Blackburn - very knowledgable on GT4's and also do some reasonable ECUs.

28% fail on lights not working. That's just plain lazy.

Indeed, I always reccomend doing this, known a few where the leak has become bad enough to damage the gasket which is them a sump off job. Re. the op - do an oil change with mobil 1, at least it smells nice

As Paul says, there's nothing fundamental about the gen 6 engine to make the change worthwhile. I did it on mine working on the theory that being a newer engine they would generally be less worn. Subsequent experience with a few engines of each type have shown the 205 engines generally have more bore wear. The power gains are largely from bigger turbo, more boost, better chargecooling.and more modern/accurate engine management. The CS/RC variant had the better chargecooling, plus a slightly bigger turbo than the a-a version.

From my experience, oem hoses last 20+ years. I've had silicone ones fail in 5. I suspect it's like most 'tuning', done for looks and because marketing hype makes it seem better.

On our 2009 trip to the european gt4 meet, this was for sale in the toyota dealer where the meet ended. Those are swiss francs, and it certainly wasn't a mint example.

Edited highlights in case it's in time. 1. - headgasket - the standard car has a paper gasket which is prone to failure if boost is increased. Check the coolant very carefully for signs - nasty rusty smell, anything but good clean coolant should ring alarm bells. Not a massive job to change if you're a competent mechanic, but a garage bill for this will write off a 185 (many have been lost to this) 2. - rusty sills, especially a sunroof model as these drain into the sills.

The 205 was probably the best celica ever in virtually every aspect, however it will never be worth as much long term as it was the disgraced one, caught cheating. Bear in mind also, that they are worth far more in mainland Europe. It's only the UK that undervalues them.

If the slider pin and bore are cleaned up with wire wool and wd40 until they slide easily, then pack with loads of grease to refit, they will last as long as any refurbed caliper. A refurbed caliper will be seized in a year if it's not pulled apart and greased before fitting, I've seen it happen.

Can't be that seized if you managed to rotate the caliper. Just wd40 or plusgas and keep rotating / pulling to work it loose. Failing that, heat is normally the savior for anything seized but be careful not to damage the caliper seals. Also SDS drills set to hammer only can work wonders, but beware of collateral damage if it fights too hard.

Particularly an oil & filter change. Pretty much everything else can be done as & when it wears out or fails the mot without causing major damage. Old oil and clogged filters causes problems inside the engine such as increased wear and jamming piston rings. The first you'll know about it is when the car starts drinking oil or rattling, and by then it's too late.

Sounds like it's just exhaust related, broken mount, broken baffle inside or could just be heatshield broken off mount and now resting on exhaust. Doesn't sound serious to me.

Lights must be in pairs and symmetric. Not certain if full beam is needed, but a single one is illegal. Bear in mind if something will not pass an not it is also illegal on the road and you can be prosecuted if stopped by the fuzz.

I wish my cars had. Fuel mysteriously appearing in them.

p.s. you will find this useful. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8316230/download_pdf/Wiring-Supp.3S-GTE_3S-GE_5S-FE_ST185RC.pdf p106/107 - fuel pump p108 - ignite & coil. (Earths aren't shown but are vital) p9 efi fuse location (to clear error codes) p35 - location of coil & igniter. (Looks like they are not on same bracket on the gen 5) I would guess the problem is more likely with the igniter than the coil.