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princy

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Everything posted by princy

  1. m10 nut, bolt and washers has always been the way I've done it
  2. For the cavities Dinitrol ML3125 is way better than Waxoyl
  3. I always use this one Bri, I prefer it to Toyodiy http://japan-parts.eu/
  4. Looks like a potential disaster averted
  5. It looks like it might be a single stage paint so should be easy enough to blow in and flat back. Had the bonnet been resprayed?. The paint looks to have had adhesion problems.
  6. I'd sand your primer with a coarser paper too, a light rub with something like a p600 or p800 will give the new layer something to grab to.
  7. It depends on the testers definition of excessive corrosion and how close it is to any part integral to the vehicle structure, it doesn't look that bad from the pictures but as above, you're probably best off getting it sorted now before it gets any worse
  8. A bit of hassle but take the wheel off and put a carrier bag over the whole hub with a sachet of silica gel in should do it
  9. No worries buddy, best method of attack is to start with the least aggressive combination until you have an idea how soft your paint is, Toyota factory paint is pretty soft as a rule
  10. The double gearing thing is by all accounts an improvement made to reduce gear wear and increase the life of the polisher and the discount code popped up a while ago on Detailing World, there were others worth slightly more but they've expired. The Silverline is meant to be a decent enough machine, I haven't used one myself but they're meant to be a little noisy and a touch on the heavy side
  11. You'd be hard pushed to find a better machine than one of these for the money and if you use the code S2KUK you'll get 5% off which equates to free next day delivery
  12. You could do them in any colour you like if you're able to spray from a gun, just use 2k single stage with a flex additive in the paint
  13. This ^^^ or one of the ceramic type sealants like Max Protect UNCv3, it tends not to dull the shine as much as a lacquer and should last a couple of years at least before needing re-coating
  14. As the last two posts above, heat and impact gun got mine out
  15. I've never had a single problem with DPD
  16. Moly grease or some manufacturers brand it as cv grease but pretty much the same stuff I always use a good quality stainless cable tie and I've had no issues so far
  17. Not all do but he does usually ask you to confirm the recesses are there and explains what will need to be done when fitting. As said, the nuts that are usually supplied with the spacers are flat faced on both sides and narrower than the nuts pictured, you'll need to use those nuts to hold the wheels on the spacers not the spacer to the hub.
  18. Yes mate, I've never had a leak with it and it helps avoid partial or full blocking of the oilways if a stray piece of tape finds it's way in while your screwing the joint together
  19. I can't see any reason why you couldn't use it on both but if it were me I'd be more inclined to use something like Loctite seal cord
  20. They do recommend no more than 30mph for a short distance but how far that distance is, is a bit of a grey area If it were me I wouldn't risk it, have a look here http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7710
  21. Has to be on a dolly or a flatbed or it'll damage the torque converter
  22. Those sockets are great but a layer of insulation tape wrapped around the socket will do the job if you're stuck
  23. Alarm every time for me, have had wheel and auto lock handbrake thingy's in the past and always find it a pain in the arse finding somewhere to keep them while you're using the car Clifford would be my preference, Toad used to do some awesome kit with hidden cameras and smoke machines but think they discontinued them
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