ArgoS Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Has anyone managed to change the valve seals on a gen6 without removing the head, either through compressing the cylinders or the nylon rope method. It's going to have to be done i would just like to do it as cheaply as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooperman Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 not heard of it being done on the 3sge and having almost finished rebuilding one at the moment i cant see how you be able to as the valves move to easily when the stem seal is removed. im guessing you mean valve stem seals as well? andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkey Boy 1 Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I've heard of people saying that they can replace valve stem seals without removing the head. Well, in my experience that is a pure myth. To be done properly it has to be a Head off job. How are you meant to compress the valve springs to remove the collets without some resistance on the valve head ? I even asked some of our engine build technicians at work about this question and they all rolled about laughing. So the answer is .... REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooperman Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 i know on some engine you can get special tools that go down through the spark plug hole to hold the valve in place. i also didnt have a compresion tool to take the collets out of my head at the time and got them out no problem. there is a way. but in saying that i did buy a tool after to put the collets back in. otherwise it would have been a nightmare. you can also buy tools that work like a pivot bolted to the head its self so you can compress the valve springs, like this. http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/210603248/Universal_Overhead_Cam_Valve_Spring_Compressor.html the down fall like i said is that the valve moves very freely with out the seal on and i would just not risk it without something holding the valve in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
princy Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Have heard of it done on other engines with a compressor line connected to the plug hole and pressurised to hole the valve closed but would imagine it would be a royal pain in the arse to get the springs compressed and the collets back in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkey Boy 1 Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Think of what pressure you are putting into your combustion chamber with compressed air ? any leakage past the piston rings is going to pressurise your engine system, blow all sorts of crud around the breather system. In an extreme case, dependant on pressures used, you could end up unseating oilseals etc. Not what I would call a professional attempt at doing the job correctly, but that is just my oppinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArgoS Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Thanks everyone for the replys. The main thing i was going to try is: Remove the cams, lower piston and feed nylon rope into cylender through spark plug holes. Then move piston up untill valves are held up by the rope and use spring removal tool. (similar to whats in this video ) I know hes working on a hunk of junk but it gives the idea of what i was thinking of trying and others seem to think it is possible. The engine has passed a full emissions test and it seems to be down to just one bad oil seal. Just my luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooperman Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 the theory is there but i can see a few problems. 1st would be the amount of smoke he had after doing the work. was it a diesel? 2nd that is only an 8valve head. 3rd plugs are in the centre on the 3sge 4th the head on the 3sge is deep 5th i dont think there is a pry bar spring compressor for the 3sge. apart from that it should be simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorris Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I’ve done a few 3sge and 3sgte top end rebuilds and like the others have said it is a head off job; unfortunately there is no short cut with this. The only way you could speed this up is to have a second head all ready to go straight on but with the head off it would be silly to at least not put a new cam belt on. Dorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArgoS Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 the theory is there but i can see a few problems. 1st would be the amount of smoke he had after doing the work. was it a diesel? 2nd that is only an 8valve head. 3rd plugs are in the centre on the 3sge 4th the head on the 3sge is deep 5th i dont think there is a pry bar spring compressor for the 3sge. apart from that it should be simple. No his oil rings had gone LMAO so he completely wasted his time anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArgoS Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I may just strip it down and try the rope trick because it would certaily be interesting to find out if it would work. If it doesnt then i'm half way to having the head off anyway and like Dorris has said it would be stupid not to replace the belt and pullys. 1 Head gasket set 2 Streach bolts 3 Timeing belt set 4 Valve steam seals Does anyone know if i would need to replace the cam shaft bearings after they have beed disturbed, also with it being an alloy head would it need to be skimmed at all. Thanks everyone for help. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Red Celica Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 And if you shear a bit of rope off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorris Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 (edited) Camshaft bearings are integral to the head so no bearings to change, the valve stem seals will more then likely come with the top end gasket kit. If you're not getting any problems with the head gasket then the chances are your head will not need to be skimmed but a flat check will tell you what your warpage is and whether it needs skimming. I would seriously advise against removing the collets with the head in place, these are fiddly little things at the best of time and I can guarantee you will drop at least one into the head and if you do there is a very high probability it will go down the oil gallery. If it does, then it’s a complete strip down to find it. Dorris Edited March 31, 2012 by Dorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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