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Coolant?


annibee

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Maybe a daft question but I'm gonna ask it anyway so dont lynch me please lol!

Basically when we swapped the engines I put the pink coolant in from Halfrauds but the car is literally drinking it like theres no tomorrow!!!!!

Going to change to red coolant do you think this will make a difference? also what exactly is the difference (because I dont know) and where can I buy the red one from :shrug:

I'm panicking that I've wrecked the car now by using the pink coolant.......have I? please tell me I havent!

Edited by annibee
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I thought coolant was coolant :shrug: but why is it using coolant like that i wonder. Is it overheating? Have your heaters been working? maybe airlock :shrug:

Yeah so did I until I googled and apparently I should be using red :shrug:

I don't know why its using so much never had that happen before....not overheating and heaters working fine (if not a little overworked to it being freezing cold last couple of days lol) suppose i'll have to get in there tomorrow and have a good look :shrug:

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the cap was on properly i take it? pipe come adrift from overflow? stabbing in the dark here now, where are you boys :laugh2:

:hysterical: I'll take a look at it tomorrow..........or if its cold make MrBee look :laugh2: thanks for the suggestions I'll take note of all of these and see if I find out what it is :bowdown:

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There can be significant differences between types of coolant, but they would not account for coolant loss. Up until a few years ago, pretty much all coolant antifreeze was ethylene glycol with certain corrosion inhibitors -really important for aluminium engines like ours. Then some new mixtures came out with better corrosion resistance (supposedly!!!). To id the two types, the companies brought in colour-code systems, but different manufacturers used different colours. The simplest thing to do is stick with toyota coolant of the same colour as was in originally; it has been suggested that mixing the two may cause corrosion problems. But if you are losing it, there has to be a leak somewhere.

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Halfrauds coolant are rubbish. They have a low boiling point. On my Husky it kept boiling at 120c but then got a more expensive coolant with a higher boiling point everything was then better. Toyota coolant is premixed to the right level so boiling point is optimum.

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Halfrauds coolant are rubbish. They have a low boiling point. On my Husky it kept boiling at 120c but then got a more expensive coolant with a higher boiling point everything was then better. Toyota coolant is premixed to the right level so boiling point is optimum.

Thanks I think that sounds about right. There's definitely no leaking I checked today so I'm gonna order some Toyota coolant as mentioned above and hope that solves it.

off to get the coolant from the toyota place in romford hopefully all will be sorted by end of the day

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Use genuine Toyota for life coolant, it's the best stuff, the 7 is a pain to bleed and u probably are just working the air lock out.

Yep! If it is not leaking, I bet it is slowly taking more as it purges out air.

As for boiling points above 120'C, well all conventional coolants are 50% water, so how much higher than 120 can the boiling point go, and how often would you ever experience that? I've never changed the thermostat in a Gen7, but on every other car I've ever worked on the stats are usually begin to open around 90'C. So short of a track day, or being stuck in traffic on a really hot summer day, I would have thought 120 was OK ?

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Just giving an extreme example with my Husqvarna 610 the differences on coolant qualities but as said if temp rises, it should be indicated on temp gauge anyway. But leaks can be hard to see. I had a leak on my Gen7 but no coolant on the floor. Found it down the bottom corner of the rad slowly weeping.

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Ah! And when putting new coolant in, you must detach the expansion tank and lift it higher. Got to unscrew the air box so the hoses can be lifted up that are connected to the expansion tank and run engine, let the coolant cycle for at leist 3 or 4 times with the cap and breather valve screw off. I don't recommend putting any sort of quick fix rad seal or such, as it can also block your heater matrix.

Edited by Zorg
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Ah! And when putting new coolant in, you must detach the expansion tank and lift it higher. Got to unscrew the air box so the hoses can be lifted up that are connected to the expansion tank and run engine, let the coolant cycle for at leist 3 or 4 times with the cap and breather valve screw off. I don't recommend putting any sort of quick fix rad seal or such, as it can also block your heater matrix.

Will be doing this when i fit my new 50mm Ally Rad - Thanks for the tip Zorg. :)

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