_Chris_

Check the Earths on the igniter and coil. It may be a single assembly on a bracket with a wire connecting the two from memory. Particularly check the threads on the mounting bolts and tapped holes on the bulkhead aren't rusty. Clear the fault codes by resetting the ECU as per the link above and see what comes back. Only the GT4 variants have the dual speed fuel pump, the GE engine just has the 'circuit opening relay' which is on a bracket on the side of the ECU.

First port of call would definately be check the error codes. No special equipment needed (a paperclip). The following guide applies to the 182 as well as the GT4 shown although some error codes don't apply. http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/info/howto/ecu/ecu_error_codes.htm There is a possible known fault on the 18x ECU's but I don't think your sypmtoms quite match. Worth a look though, the ECU is located behind the centre console above the exhaust tunnel. Pull back the carpet to access. http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/148489-heads-up-common-gen-5-ecu-problem/ Do you have an immobiliser fitted ?

All old cars are much the same, as are many new ones. Celicas are better than most in my experience. Buy new and it's dual mass flywheels and diesel particulate filters emptying the bank account.

http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/157717-alloy-rdiators/ Just to add a little info to the thread, the first alloy rad I had was part of a group buy & made by golpher which worked reasonably well. The second one I bought - and which seems to be the only design available - has a slightly taller core leaving little room for the top tank, hence flow is very poor as it only has about a 5mm gap to flow through. The second one I bought has only done a few hundred miles as the engine kept overheating and the block was cracked after investigation - which was cause & effect ? who knows. The rad is going for scrap either way.

It's a vacuum rather than pressure and it's normal. It's done so breather fumes don't escape direct to atmosphere but get burnt in the engine.

Auto tune only does the mixture and needs a wideband signal fed in. Basically you feed in a table. Of target afr's and it tweaks the map to achieve it. Can be useful but largely another impressive box to tick. The ignition map is the hard bit that really needs a dyno.

The link plus is better but don't think it has knock control. Tbh the knock control on the g4 is pretty basic, only there to tick a box imo. Look up the part number on the hydra website for info. Pm or ring me if you want help understanding it.

If this is a Hydra nemesis, keep it and flog the G3 - it's a much superior unit including built in knock control. The G3 is a bit basic.

It's likely the throttle body has a couple of outlets to go in the water circuit for heating these are usually small like vac pipes. It's quite likely you have one of these swapped.

The 165 has a very old fashioned feel to it inside, bit like driving an old mk1 escort again. On the other hand, they do have a real character to them and are the lightest and best balanced version as a base for a competition car.

You missed out club membershipfrom the shopping list ;

I own both, but my 205 is standard and the 185 was uprated & lowered suspension when I bought it. For me, the 205 feels like an executive express, while the 185 feels like a sports car despite being slower in a straight line. I've also driven a friends RC version with a boost controller, also with uprated suspension. The RC/CS chargecooling is similar spec to the 205 and the ECU's are thus mapped with less safety margin so better power and ecconomy and then not far short of a 205 in both aspects. Handling wise, the 185 is a bit more prone to understeer on tight corners with the extra weight at the front and without the superstrut geometry advantages. The difference isn't worth the extra problems of the SS on a road car though IMO. The electric drivers seat in a 185 is the most comfortable seat I've ever sat in, way way nicer than the 205 seats.

Headgasket failure causing asudden non start if it was running fine earlier in the day would be a first in my lifetimes experience, unless it was overheating badly when it was parked up. i suspect the problem is something else, may be worth going through symptoms and recent history on here for a second opinion.

As above. Definitely not 185. Measure the diameter and thickness of the disk. Also the distance from the front face the wheel bolts on to the front face of the disk itself.

Use a 12 point socket for this, not 6 point. Twice as many contact points and they're much sharper. Just shows what a waste of time locking nuts are.

If it's been stood, it's likely brakes are seized on, or could just be that GT4's are very hard to push anyway even when recently run and plenty of oil about the gears & bearings. Could still be a poor connection on either Earth or power side cabling though, if the engine turns out not to be seized.

That looks about the right amount of negative camber when you fit 185 struts to a 205, having done it on mine in an emergency. The struts do look identical. that error over the height of the wheel only amounts to a mm or so at the 2 holes, hard to see the difference without careful measurement.

You say you tried bump starting and tow starting. Did the wheels lock or clutch slip, or did the engine turn ? Is it really that difficult to put a 19mm socket on the crank pulley and try turning that you'd just condemn an engine as seized without checking ?

I'm guessing you mean mm not inches. Some negative camber is normat but I can't remember the spec. I expect the bgb will list it. You can probably adjust by a mm or 2 by loosening the 2 bolts holding the strut to hub. Double check the ground is flat and level under all 4 wheels using the spirit level.

Have you tried turning the engine over with a socket on the crank pulley ? Could be seized engine or jammed starter casuing massive current draw when the starter is driven. OR Could be a high resistance battery or poor connection causing a big voltage drop. Check the big Earth lead from battery neg. to engine and the big lead from battery pos to starter. Check the joints are tight & clean, look for signs of overheating on the joints (melted plastic / discoloured wire or crimps).

Why do people not bother reading the information given. A simple diy job needing a paperclip and all the knowledge on here to know what the results mean, and it's given to a mechanic who can't cope because he can't plug in a machine to tell him what to do. Aaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrggghhhhh ! I need too go and lie down

SInce the engine light is coming on, follow this guide to read fault codes: http://www.gt4dc.co.uk/info/howto/ecu/ecu_error_codes.htm Report back what codes come up.

Take a picture from behind with the camera low down so you can see both rear wheels relative to each other. Anything else it's easy to get an optical illusion due to the body curves. You can normally get a little adjustment by loosening the 2 big bolts holding strut to hub and pull top of hub outwards before tightening the bolts again. You can increase this adjustment by filing the holes.

Gen 6 rear ends are fatter than gen 5, but the strut tops are in the same locations. Therefore, fitting gen 5 rear shockers to a gen 6 will give negative camber (in at top, out at bottom). Look at the car from behind and see if the wheels look vertical relative to each other.

It's possible it's sticking / gummed up oil rings knowing this engines tendancy towards such things. Leaving an engine stood isn't good for it, especially if it isn't in a warm dry environment. It's normally a good idea to drop a spoonful of redex in through the plugholes a couple of days before firing it up to help with such things. I wouldn't panic just yet. Drive it round for a couple of weeks and monitor oil use closely and see if it settles back in.