keef-b

I did consider the GT86, actually for a good while i was set on getting one - but current prices and other things got in the way. Now though i doubt i'll get near one, unless Gibby brings his round wanting something done to it :rolleyes:

If you are using the stick on shims then be sure to have some ceratec too to smear along the top and bottom edges of the pads where they sit in the caliper or are in contact with the anti-squeal spring that is in some models. The two things combined will REDUCE the squeal but it'll will still give the odd chirp now and then. I never got the chance to try the metal shims from the states - would imagine they'd be an improvement over the stick ons.

There are 4 bleed nipples as the calipers are universal for many applications so may end up fitted either way around requiring there to be bleed nipple top and bottom

Get it changed just now Ger as you might end up with the rivets showing on the clutch plate and marking the face of the flywheel - will change the simple swap to have to remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced

the pipe like "half a square" if it goes to a nipple (titter) at the front right corner of the intake manifold them leave it alone as long as the open end it's blanked off - it's a vacuum line that goes from the intake manifold to the secondary air injection. Well that's if i'm deciphering your messages correctly lol

All clips on headlight broke, hole in bumper, passenger wing pushed back, down and out, front panel pushed over towards driverside, hard to see in pics but it's all rather squidgy. Stated it would need to be put on jig to be realigned properly and that's where the expense comes in long before the price of parts - was valued at a lot more than £1500 Just glad i had no unsecured car parts in the back as with my luck i would not have gotten away as lightly as Danny! And yeah, a Beams MR2 is a dream machine - prefer a tin top though as it's not as wobbly as the T-Bar!!

Jeez-o , glad you're ok from that! I had similar on the same day but a lot less dramatic - Looks like nothing, but the general jiggling of the panels means the chap doing the quote at the repair centre (had to go there as the other party was kind enough to call his insurer after we'd agreed to sort it between ourselves ) initially has estimated that it'll be uneconomical to repair. Still awaiting confirmation though. Crazily enough i was looking at MKII's aswell - would love another as i had several in the past Couple of decent ones up just now that are reasonable - R plate silver one has my attention

I put reasonable offer in and the guy said it didn't cover the price he paid to import it. Oddly enough it's a bodyshop / repair place selling it and the rear bumper has had the black bit of plastic trim along it painted . . . . . just saying lol

Still say a MKII MR2 - try finding a genuine beams engined one for sale . . . . . Ok, now you're back after that fruitless search other things to consider - insurance, technically it's still a 3-sge engine with same capacity so only really need to update the log book to new block number. No exhorbitant premiums for über modified small shopping trolleys. Handling - the SW20 is built to house this block so will easily still be sweet to drive once you swap it in. Ease of the actual swap - same as handling really, it's meant to be in there so more the electrical side just needing doing rather than engine mounts, Frankenstein driveshaft / gearbox configs. - Just my opinion of course

MkII MR2 - Toyota did already put that engine in there on a very few incredibly rare cars. At least that way you could pick up a a t-bar shell and have a great summer cruiser

Or you could find a scrapper and resurrect it like i did to get mine :xmas_cool: http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/146010-sports-lid-resurrected/

3SGE oil level sensor is renowned for doing this - can bridge the contacts on the sensor in the sump with a piece of wire and refit plug if you don't want unsightly tape on the dash - or spend £130 upwards for a new sump sensor from Mr T!

Set of Neo-chrome wheel nuts from Driftworks to better compliment my white Regamasters

LOL, none of the above - it's the department that spends billions in developing nations across the globe - not as exciting (or mundane ORC ) Askari but certainly interesting at times

38, security officer in obscure govt. department Always been car daft but have mellowed over the years and now have settled on the "sensible" Celica . . . . for now anyway!

something like that maybe to try and rescue the thread first? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thread-Repair-Chasers-Re-threading-Cleaning/dp/B00J8N0BVI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1415244448&sr=8-9&keywords=14mm+thread+repair Just a suggestion.

Not quite today, but i only got my hands on it today -

i've always been using K&N filters on my Gen7 - guess i'll be buying one to cut up now and satisfy my newfound curiosity!

i just run a sharp blade around the wall of the tyre leaving the ring with the bead on the wheel then slice the bead with the grinder - job done in a minute tops

Best of luck and as for looking loud I guess that's why I always see those AMG Mercs by the roadside pulled by the fuzz

Best slimline tuner nuts i had were from driftworks - proper chromed steel so just needed a wee shine up now n then and they never rusted, at all, ever.

My golf used to use a litre a week (terrible i know) got to the point of adding about a 1/3 of the stop smoke in each time i put oil in (every week) - kinda strung it out a bit longer As i said when i mentioned it initially i am in now way recommending using this stuff but it does what it says on the tin!