Adex

Very! And I'm usually fairly patient with these things! This particular part is a special exception though! It took less than 24 hours to get to Coventry from Japan ffs! In the past I've had bits turn up from New Zealand in 36 hours! Wtf is wrong with this country!

Now if you're spending it on Greggs cheese, bacon & bean slices, then it's completely understandable! Shows you how desperate people are for a bit of fame though, that they're willing to publicise the fact that they're a bell-end to the entire planet! :rolleyes: Like little pies...?

That's what happens when you spend all your driving lesson money on pies!

Nothing...... yet! Bloody customs delays!

I would have thought the effect on performance would be negligible, as all you're really doing is making the center pipe of the exhaust 6 or so inches longer, you're not restricting the gas flow to any significant degree more than the pipe exiting the silencer (not the tail pipe trim) does anyway. I say more than it does anyway, because if you look up your exhaust, the diameter of the pipe exiting the silencer, at least on a N/Spec is smaller than the diameter of the majority of the system. So there does appear to be some sort of reduction in size from one end of the silencer to the other. Surely all a solid (rather than the perforated one you've linked) bung does is mean the gas & sound waves exit the smaller diameter pipe directly to atmosphere, instead of bouncing around in the 4" wide part at the end before doing so.

Well, my bung came from a fella who'd just bought a Nur-Spec for his Scooby. But yeah, from what I could see in checking, they were all the same. I'd say this one probably even turns the tailpipe section of the silencer in to a secondary silencer if you see what I mean? As it has holes in the center tube, whereas the Nur-Spec just has a pipe as you mention, all it's doing is stopping the sound waves bouncing around in the end section. But I'm a brand whore* though so it had to be Blitz or better for me. * Well, I am now. When a bit younger I used to buy cheaper stuff, but I want the best for my car now.

When I was looking for a bung for my Nur-Spec, I was thinking of getting an APEXi (Naturally ) 'active' bung - Mine was on the car when I bought it y'see & I never got the bung. They've sprung loaded flappy bits so they're loud when you're caning it, but quiet at lower revs. Might be something to consider...? (In the end I spotted a Nur-Spec bung being sold on ebay, it was brand new & had never been fitted, so for the £20 it cost me, I was well happy!).

Ahem, I think you'll find we got rid of all the grass so we could fit more cars on ac-tu-ally!

Seems like it sometimes bud! Not sure who that's a scarier prospect for, you or me?! SS3's are a lot of fun, didn't really get much chance to drive this one (other than a couple of around-the-block test-drives), but had a good blat in Ady's on Tuesday. Proper nimble feeling compared to a mac-setup (bear in mind, most of my S/strut seat time has been in the heavier faff). Still quite remote feeling steering though. Then again, I compare everything to my MR-S these days & the steering feel on that is bordering on telepathic!

You have got some nerve fella! Filling up your driveway with more cars than you could possibly use! Some people!

You're thinking of Shiply.com.

Now I'd be interested to see how you get on with that. Looks like a nice piece of kit!

Strange you say that, because I've been keeping an eye out for a good g4 (as if I need any more cars!) & every time I look I see 3 or 4 verts to every coupe. Maybe I should start looking for a vert, then I'll find a good coupe!

Glad you know what you're talking about then.... That makes one of you!

So 0.25 for the steering wheel & 0.25 x3 for the seat = 0.5 does it?

Quite a few must have been broken/scrapped by now I reckon. Mine must be one of the more standard ones around... for now! (and even then I'm only planning bolt-on mods so they're nice & reversible). Seats count as 0.5 now do they? is that 0.166666666 per seat or what? Thought that was just engines/bodywork (think sil80/Onevia).

Nah, we'll sort you out somehow bud. They're cool wheels so it'll be worth it. So (based on how much your driveshafts stick out, compared to the center hole in the wheel), will you need sticky-outy [sic] caps of flat(ish) ones?

The thing with araldite, is that it's frequently stronger than it's own bond, if you get me. As soon as some force (especially spring type force) is applied, the bond cracks & you'll end up with the two parts you were trying to join and an additional piece of araldite. Also I'm not confident that araldite will cope with the vibration/shock/heat that wheels have to put up with. Think you might end up playing discus on the motorway after all.... Some form of positive fixing method is definitely the way forward. So you don't have to keep making replacements for ones you've lost, if not for safety reasons.

Hopes & dreams? Spit & string? How about small caps just to cover the d/shafts, plenty of them about. I know I've got quite a few spares knocking about in the garage from previous alloys.

The problem with bonding a sprung clip is that it's likely to be either strong enough, but likely to crack/separate, or flexible enough, but not strong enough to hold in place securely.

You could do small mushroom tack's through to the ally, but the problem then is is one gets loose it's a mission to sort out. If the discs were thick enough for a smallish bolt? Say 5mm thread depth? Keep it nice & simple mate, the more complicated you make something like this the more you paint yourself into a corner if something breaks. If one gets loose, it's simple to sort. Rivets (or any other method that requires a hole all the way through) will look gash, agreed. Also, if they're 1mm ally, you might as well make more than 8, as you'll find it hard not to accidentally annihilate them the first time you need to get to your wheel bolts....

I could give you a hand making either some clips or the caps & clips if you like buddy?

PM incoming....

Have a read of this buddy.

PM'd.