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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/07/18 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    So just over a year ago I completed a front end rebuild comprising, amongst other things a new set of KYB shocks - purchased from an online supplier of reasonable reputation I recently went over a crater on the M5 at 70 mph and damaged my passenger side shock (blew the seal). So, to be thorough I bought another pair of KYBs from my trusted local supplier which were sourced right from KYB uk. Imagine my surprise on extracting said blown shock and finding a totally different brand under the KYB Excel-G sticker - they are actually "Optimal" made shocks which seem to come from china and are the same basic make as most of the cheapo "rebranded" shocks out there. I guess faking the KYB sticker and box wasn't difficult..... don't ever buy Optimal shocks. even the one on the undamaged side was totally fecked after just 1 year. 10mm free play up/down on the piston, squeaky seals, virtually no rebound pressure left, hard and soft parts along the stroke -oh, and rusty too. I am usually very diligent when I source critical parts, but this time I was caught out and thought I would share the experience. ps - with genuine KYBs at the front now and known genuine KYBs at the back it doesn't half ride stiffer ! its like its on rails
  2. 1 point
    By your description..mine looks to be genuine. The top "plate" is silver, and the welding around the base continuous. This is exactly what is stamped directly under the sticker: 334278 KYB CAUTION GAS FILLED DO NOT OPEN OR HEAT MADE IN JAPAN PL14 There is also transparent plastic banding around the shock.
  3. 1 point
    would prefer not at this time, I want to see what their response to my email is look at yours and you see a sticker AND the KYB part number & "made in japan" stamped on the outward face of the shock. The top "plate" around the piston should be silver not black and be a flat disc with tacwelds. The weld around the very bottom of the shock where it has the hub plate pressed around it - it should be a continuous weld all around the tube, not just a few spot welds. that was all the more obvious differences I could see
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