G.Lewarne

New Handbrake shoes and spring/pin fitting kit

You know the sort of thing - little bolt snaps somewhere, nothing important, so you use superglue or zip ties, or you break something else when doing a repair, or you hole your bumper and just use filler.... and think....feck it.... I will start: My drivers side rear ABS sensor cable bracket, just below the strut, is now held on with a combination of epoxy, superglue and a bolt I managed to get in the remains of the captive nut by one thread. Luckily this thing isn't really important nor under any load whatsoever, it literally just hold the ABS cable up

its like a tough glue/paint combo

Replaced both rear trailing arms, hub carriers, suspension bolts, ARB + brackets just to fix one snapped and one seized toe bolt. fun fun fun!

I think only the Toyota machine, maybe the snap-on and other really expensive readers can read the other control units. Anything else is just the main engine ECU. I have one of the ELM237 blue Bluetooth ODBII readers plugged in and use it with Torque app on my phone. Its brilliant. And cheap.

Those Eibachs looks evenly spaced to me..... ?

Nope The toolstation stuff is like someone mixed paint with kurust. Its literally a matt black rust converting paint all-in-one and its pretty good too.

I rather like the "Rust Converter" you can get from Toolstation, made by flag. Big tin for a fiver. Its almost like paint and dries to a matt black finish that seems pretty tough. Used quite a bit on mine in fiddly places and seems to last. The rear brake pipe loops are still matt black and non spotty after 6 months and they basically get shot blasted by crap coming off the wheels.

Unless you get your discs glowing, the sliders don't get that hot. Think of it this way - the main purpose of red rubber grease is to pre-lubricate rubber piston seals and rings inside callipers and brake cylinders during assembly (though I concede that is very small amounts) I, and many others have been using red rubber grease on sliders for years without any issues whatsoever. Sometimes I use silicon, depends what ive got handy. My preference is for rubber grease though as I find silicon gives the sliders a less smooth slidey motion

Red RUBBER grease (not just red, it must be for rubber) or Silicon grease on the caliper sliders. Anything else on these will swell the rubber boots, let water in and seize the sliders. Also, its worthwhile replacing the rubber boots (they just pop off with a little levering, hammer new ones on with a socket that they fit in) and the actual sliders if the old ones are pitted or scored. You can get a complete kit that includes the sliders, through bolts, rubber boots and silicon grease from brakeparts.co.uk On the pad edges and other pad contact areas I use a little Ceratec which you can get form ECP for a few quid. This is a very high temperature, non dripping, non metallic, grease specifically designed for brake assembly on the metal to metal bits. Anything else is likely to melt. You don't need much, just a little smear. Put too much on and you end up with big globs of disgusting grease/brake dust/road grime mix. For all the assembly bolts, a tiny smear of copper grease on the threads - its high enough temp to survive, and helps prevent the threads galling. Most people overdo it, but again you only need a tiny smear - with too much you actually alter the applied torque of the bolt and risk loosening. I don't personally grease anything else.

for those who need a new battery for a facelift, the 158 code cross references to a type 053 and is identical in size, capacity and CCA. Not sure why two different codes for the same type of battery, but there we go - also, lots of places cost the 158 higher than the 053, which is funny considering the old varta I pulled out had both numbers on it indicating it was indeed, exactly the same. Now got a new Yuasa YBX3053 on it and boy does it crank fast now

fuel pump priming issue / engagement issue on the apexi ?

unless the bearings are gone, I don't see any reason to replace the entire rear hub assembly. It is easy enough to get around the hub to replace the shoes.

No post, but nearly! Went to Mr T to get oil filter for upcoming oil change. £4,50, not bad. Enquired about prices of "their" oil, was given price of £49 for 5l of fully synth Toyota 5w40. Nearly choked on my free coffee in the waiting area. All I said was that's quite pricey, parts guy said how much do I normally pay? I had to think quickly, wasn't prepared for that and didn't want to take the pi$$ so said £29. Got the oil for £29. RESULT

optional ejection seat

good idea, I would. I would also spray a crap load of waxoil into the box section through the small gaps at the end

how much was the new rear subframe?

no. In my super special case the sticker colour matches my paint colour creating a zero point energy field that actually reduces drag by two hundred percent at anything above 5mph but, only for me

Woohoo! got my extra free 20bhp today with 2x club stickers applied

there is a place near me that does it. I watched it once when I was in the next industrial unit. The absolute sheer brutality of it puts me off. HUGE amounts of white smoke, I heard misfires, chunks coming out the exhaust, fast idling for long periods let alone the interference to the fuel lines and connectors - ill pass

FOR SCIENCE!!!!!11111oneone Today, in the post I received my el-cheapo MAF sensor and Coolant temperature sensor. The replacement MAF is not an ebay jobbie but from a UK distributor who sells pretty decent quality aftermarket units. Ive fitted sensors they have supplied to several cars over the years and not once ever had an issue. The Coolant temperature sensor was from carparts4less (ECP) and is an intermotor branded unit. MAF cost me £25 and CTS cost me a whopping £9 Neither of my existing sensors are outright bad, but sometimes I do get a MAF related CEL code even after its been cleaned. After 13 years and 130k miles I'm experimenting to see if I can increase my mpg a bit. If they don't work out or die, ill just put my current factory ones back on. If both the new sensors work without issue that's the complete closed loop A/F sensor trio replaced as ive already done my pre-cat lambda. If the rain holds off, ill swap them over tomorrow, then perform an ECU reset. Ive got a reasonably long road trip planned for sunday which I can use as my mpg benchmark. Ill also (hopefully) get to see the marvellous spoon that Daytona received

only £2.30 inc shipping - did take 4 weeks though I actually used a bunch today, work pretty well

Today I received my bag of 100x China's most high quality plastic undertray/skirt/engine cover push clips Even if they are rubbish and only last 1 use each time, ive got 100 of the things and its better than cable ties

the factory covers also cover a good chunk of the front subframe and forward chassis meaning there could be giant rust holes they cant see. is just covering their backs