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yellowchinaman

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Everything posted by yellowchinaman

  1. You need to see this post! I have very limited stock for the Gen 7 bonnets. Also our OEM is on clearance on ebay as we wont be selling standard ones no more. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Carbon-Fibre-bonnet-hood-Toyota-Celica-00-06-/250782392238?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a63cb9fae#ht_581wt_967 Too many cheap knock offs which don't lasts are being sold.
  2. Absolute rubbish that. You'll be lucky to make a fuel cover before the mould fall apart after cracking it off. Making a basic mould doen't need any thing special from what you use to make your FRP products. Its more about how accurate and strong you can make it. Hint. Knowledge in carpentry helps especially when making moulds with more than 1 pieces. Also planning ahead on how to release the moulded part and joining helps.
  3. Making a good mould is the key. You can read up online on how to make moulds and FRP parts. But experience helps a lot as I know a lot of people who uses different tricks and techniques to making the perfect mould. We too have trade secrets which I'll never share. Because you're taking ownership of moulds, it can cost anywhere from £400-£1000 for a mould of a lip. I remember there used to be a company specifically dedicated to making moulds up north Midlands a while back but they went bust.
  4. All depends on: Who's making it? (skill and experince is the contributing factor) What kind of mould? (Female composite mould for normal production or ceramic mould for mass production) How big the part it and how many pieces the mould would need to be in? Ownership and rights? For you or the maker?
  5. could just be the way you drive buddy.
  6. We are located near Kew gardens jsut 15 mins from Hangerlane roundabout off the A406. If you send me some pictures first for me to assess and I'll let you know my opinion. My email is Ray@rt-performance.com
  7. I've heard of the universal wheel arch. It's basically a strip of metal with fin cuts on it. Allows it to curve and be welded to the arch for corroded arches. Its not very good and should only be used on classic cars where arches are not available. We're not near you but can do the job for you. However I'd take it up with the original body shop if I where you.
  8. The lip is only screwed on around the inside of the wheel arch. The underside of the top surface of the lip is glued to your stock bumper. If you dont want a permanent fix you can use double sided padded tape. It's perfectly safe and more than enough. Taras's Grey GT4 had it on for 2 years and the new owner still has it without a problem. It's done plenty of miles and motorways inc a dozen of runs at santa pod and it never dropped off.
  9. a tube of tiger seal and some universal plugs for the underside. At the ends you use your existing screws. A few G clamps will help if you're sealing around the door edges. Very easy DIY job TBH.
  10. You can if you want Matt but it's not compulsory. The bonnets and boots are simplified to eliminate as much as possible for track use. How ever the option to transfer OEM parts are still there but requires you to drill out the holes your self. You'll find it the same with the boot as well. In order for you to feed the cables and hoses through you'll need to drill it out. If you need any help Matt. Feel free to ask me as we did make it for you. Oh yeah. Another person who did this that you can talk to is VietTS as he installed the boot and bonnet him self.
  11. I cant say when we're up and running 100% but for the past few weeks we've been doing some mechanical work such as superstrut suspension repairs, exhaust changes and services to keep us going. Fabrications wise in the UK we're a bit buggered because we're not ready and still waiting on some machinery to arrive. Spraying we can and have been doing for the past two weeks but stopped now to install the extractor and after install the inlet filter panels. But for spraying we should be fully ready as of next week and will be working on Johnys light weight GT4 carboned by us. WE have a bit of a back log of spray jobs so really pushing to cram them in 1 after another. Yes we've seen many people though very skilled, still use a DIY shed with a small motorised fan with no filtration. We've spent thousands on our booth and on equipment which we believe can't be skimped on. In the past we've sprayed in isolated conditions as most people do but it's not ideal. Keeping steady temp is near imposable and the standard extraction only stops you from getting lost in the mist and choking to death. Though our sprayer is very skilled, qualified and have been spraying for 8 years, he still has to re-touch and polish off tiny bits. This extractor will not only make the job perfect 1st time round when spraying, it'll significantly reduce our spraying time because we wouldn't have to go back for any corrections. We've isolated 2 rooms in our workshop. 1 prep room and 1 spray room to ensure that we reduce as much contamination as possible when spraying. As for the spoiler, I'll announce it later on when they arrive. Keep an eye out in the Spoiler thread.
  12. ok just to clear things up. This is not a hairstylist toy. This is an industrial extraction chamber measuring 3.5 meters wide. Tomorrow we're having to take out the entire wall behind our spray booth to fit this baby in.
  13. I keep seeing people announce their new toys... usually for their cars. So here's ours: When standing inside, this thing gives you some mega hair lift! :P
  14. it looks likes a straight forward job. We can do it for £250 but we're located in Kew.
  15. whoops? Thought it was just a nice pic challenge. fluffy trees???
  16. Took these last month when walking the dogs with Taras GT at Verginia waters near the M3.
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