budgetbondbile

I have watched quite a few of this guy's vids he does try and do some interesting comparisons tbh

Hiya cheers, no the discs are just normal 'non-grooved' but thanks for the suggestion, think they were all ebay/ecp cheapies they're terrible look coal powered or something, thought about painting them black but not a real fan of that, but it's really thick stuff hard to remove, I can't understand it the rears are just as bad and it's not as though I'm practicing emergency stopping!! Yeah I've heard about the wheel wax, if I can get them clean in the first place!, is it actually different than just 'normal' car wax?

The brake dust on my wheels is shocking, black thick and really unsightly totally ruining any look of my wheels. I've tried painting the inserts dark and still look crap. I've not long put new discs and pads on there (think they were standard mintex y type things). Has anyone got any tips on a) removing the dust and keeping it at bay b) anything I can put on the wheels that 'll help it not stick/make em easier to clean c) any other solutions at all like brake pad brands that give off silver dust thatd be handy!!

I've noticed on my driveshafts think the o/s I'll double check, there's a piece of rubber integral about halfway along it that seems to be 'disintegrating' is this like a dampener or anti-vibration thing along it? has anyone any experience of this? And does this mean it's gonna snap at some point? Cheers in advance for any help

Think it may help with cleaning and keeping parts lubed up I've read about adding 2 stroke but not tried that people even use diesel I've experimented with acetone, paraffin and white spirity type higher up the aromatic carbon chain type solvents in the past with varying success you've just not got to overdue it, from what I can remember that's all pretty much what's in redex anyway and prolly the detergent type additives in vpower petrol etc. I think atf mite be another one I've seen on good ol youtube

Thanks for the advice guys, yeah I got free mot vouchers with a purchase at Halfords last year that are due to runout, it actually passed with just a couple of advisories last time to my amazement but just a bit more worried they've got me over a barrel this time, but I suppose that's generally the issue now. But actually xanadu come to think of it that's a good point now, there is a council place just round the corner I've used in the past, but I wonder how it works now with them when your now not supposed to be able to drive a car away with a 'dangerous' defect even if there's test remaining when they don't do repairs, any recent experience on this one?

Well considering its a free mot that's a defo fail then!! I'll take a look at it before they crucify me!!!

It's dreaded mot time and I know it's more stringent now, does anyone know if a rattling heat shields a failure or not? I've yet to get round to locating and securing it but I don't want to take it down there knowing that they mite force me to let 'them' fix it.

Mines mostly on an incline too mite be taking it a bit far lol but maybe we could park upwards one week then down the next!! Not an expert but I think tarmac s ok grass is the no no I think. It's the back that needs protecting maybe access to 'wind' could come into play!

Yeah Scottish cars do seem to fare worse I suppose that may contribute to them being slightly cheaper generally and the Midlands cars do seem to last longer. It seems a slightly inexact science cos yeah the well used 'hammered' ones do sometimes appear to be better which may ironically make them better purchases on older cars, maybe it's the renewed airflow drying them out not letting water sit etc. If yours is a weekender sly you maybe want to weigh up where you park it when yours is sorted.

I've just squirted stuff in thro the drain holes on the older ones they can rust but like under the sill covers sometimes it helps to drill one of the holes a bit bigger to get the applicators in u can take the doorcards off but can be a bit of a pain to get back on there mite be an easier way tho e.g. removing the handle/screw holes? but I haven't tried that

Bit of a topic for debate here, but generally hypothetically what sort of tips mite anyone have for spotting a non rusty car/celica?I My initial tuppenys worth!! Scotland seems to b a rustier hotbed/belt. Be wary of low milers. Obviously check mot history for signs also btw would any one rule out previous rusty brake pipes as a precautionary precursor? Get one of those camera on a stethoscope thingys and insert it into the sills with the top cover removed as well as the osr subframe. Anyone else with any more experience have any other useful hacks/ideas on the subject?

No thanks I'll have a look in there cheers for that

Hiya anyone know the easy/easiest way to manipulate photos/pictures to see what design ideas/colour change s will potentially look like before implementation?!!