_Chris_

Check it's the cable not the mechanism seized. Only suggestion us to soak in penetrating oil.

I don't think polymer give a massive longer lifespan especially at higher temperatures. They do tend to have a lower ESR which may be a benefit for some, especially the 10uF which are usually the first to go and I suspect the reason being high ripple current as they don't have a paralell ceramic capacitor. For smaller values like the 10uF, ceramic capacitors are now available in a usable size and should offer much longer lifespan and lower ESR. I have had a report that these caused a problem in an ECU though I've used them in others with no issue. In theory, tantalum should offer a better lifespan for the larger values however they are much less robust as far as over-voltage surges and explode when subjected to them. On newer exu's, be aware that gen6 uses a 4 layer PCB and the inner power planes appear not to have thermal breaks. This makes it much harder to melt solder all the way through to remove / refit components and damage to the through plating cannot easily be repaired with links as the tracks are impossible to trace. This means there is a finite risk to changing the capacitors which could desroy an otherwise perfectly working ECU. I would be surprised if the gen7 ECU wasn't also a 4+ layer PCB.

As above, I concluded long ago that colour means nothing and you need to check the listed chemical composition. I've seen inside engines run on the Toyota forlife (red and the correct one to use) and I've seen inside engines run on other antifreezes. I only use the genuine Toyota stuff, preferably premixed. This is available from TCB. Dealers only seem to have the conc. stuff which works out more expensive once you've bought demin./distilled water to go with it.

In case you don't realise, make sure they go the right way round, assuming you've bought electorlytics like the originals. The gunk is conductive as well as corrosive, and it's possible that was causing the issues rather than broken tracks. If it's thoroughly cleaned with a solvent such as IPA or thinners then it's worth sparing with laquer, or preferably cobformal coating (HPA or APL).

Bearing in mind the newest cars with this format OBD1 are 25 years old now I really don't see enough market to be worth developing at this stage. Saying that, there wouldn't be much effort needed to decode the data stream and output on USB to a laptop if there's enough interest. If this device is still available it would probably be the cheapest & easiest option.

Just dug through the archives and found the following info on OBD1 https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/8764-OBD-Serial-Data h47.pdf h48.pdf toyota_obd1.pdf toyota_obd1_ver2.pdf

Digging up an old thread. What came of this device ? Unfortunately my spare time disappeared shortly after this thread with my Dad falling ill and Dying leaving me as full time carer for my Mum which only ended earlier this year.

Jack on front and rear subframes. Most 2 post lifts have pads that screw out to allow levelling, if this isn't enough then use extra blocks.

I believe Paul (Paulus) up in your direction has a contact that will replace ECU capacitors and repair tracks damaged by the leakage but not sure whether he has test gear, I certainly don't. I'm not sure whether the engine ECU also controls the gearbox or whether there's a separate control. Worth doing some research. When I was looking into my auto box that went erratic, it looked more like it was a traditional auto box with mechanical/hydraulic control modified by solenoids. In my case the problem was solved by another 'box rather than electronics.

There are specialist suppliers than can source pretty much anything for these cars, worth asking on here.

I suspect the £700 is all the parts required for MOT and labour,not just the subframe.

It's getting very very hard to find parts for older cars through the normal channels. I think many supply chains broke during covid and the less lucrative ones have never been re-established. I this is one of the main reasons mechanics are tending to avoid working on older cars and are so keen to write them off for simple problems. Forums such as this one are a godsend as they provide information on specialist suppliers, specialist garages and even the technical knowledge for DIY.

Wales is so full of little gems it's hard to go along all of them in one lifetime.

Last time I sold a car (other than to friends) was 20-30 years ago and autotrader worked the best, paper version back then. For buying, I've found gumtree tends to have much more genuine sellers. Ebay is just full of con merchants both buyers and sellers. If it's in particularly good condition (sounds like it is) it may even be worth looking at Mathewsons, though it's probably too new still.

I had something along similar lines on my SS1 but that also included very rough changes which gave a bit of a thump in the bavk changing up at higher revs. The gearbox eventually went bang overtaking and left me with reverse or neutral. Sorted with a gearbox change, wasn't ecu.

But is it the right answer within seconds ?

I think classifieds were moved from being a sub-forum to their own separate place which may have caused some confusion.

i would try TCB or gT4 play as first port of call.

I've got a pile of centre caps at the factory. I never fit them as they can fall off. That was my old workhorse back when they were cheap - I rescued that one from scrap as it had LPG so was as cheap to run as my diesel clio on long runs.

Popping out for lunch.

Worth trying TCB as well. www.tcbparts.co.uk They also do secondhand parts and loads that's not listed on the site.

On the gen 6 you don't actually need the engine running, just ignition on and push the throttle. If you have a second person they can keep the throttle down to keep it running.

In both cases the Toyota red is the best stuff to use. I've seen inside engines run with Toyota red, and engines run with normal aftermarket stuff. I also forgot to mention, blipping the throttle with ignition on also provides confirmation the pump is working. It's becoming increasingly common as the age goes up for these to stop working. It's usually worn out brushes in the motor but often worth getting a re-con pump. Available from GT4-play or TCB. Either low level or failed pump will produce the code 54 error.

What they don't tell you is to do it with the pump running as this drops the level at the cap. Blip the throttle with the ignition on and the pump should run for about 30 seconds.

I would tend to contact Martin Kingston as a first port of call. MK autos in Blackburn. Standard pistons plus standard rings cost nearly the same as forged which come with rings.