_Chris_

As above, I concluded long ago that colour means nothing and you need to check the listed chemical composition. I've seen inside engines run on the Toyota forlife (red and the correct one to use) and I've seen inside engines run on other antifreezes. I only use the genuine Toyota stuff, preferably premixed. This is available from TCB. Dealers only seem to have the conc. stuff which works out more expensive once you've bought demin./distilled water to go with it.

In case you don't realise, make sure they go the right way round, assuming you've bought electorlytics like the originals. The gunk is conductive as well as corrosive, and it's possible that was causing the issues rather than broken tracks. If it's thoroughly cleaned with a solvent such as IPA or thinners then it's worth sparing with laquer, or preferably cobformal coating (HPA or APL).

Bearing in mind the newest cars with this format OBD1 are 25 years old now I really don't see enough market to be worth developing at this stage. Saying that, there wouldn't be much effort needed to decode the data stream and output on USB to a laptop if there's enough interest. If this device is still available it would probably be the cheapest & easiest option.

Just dug through the archives and found the following info on OBD1 https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/8764-OBD-Serial-Data h47.pdf h48.pdf toyota_obd1.pdf toyota_obd1_ver2.pdf

Digging up an old thread. What came of this device ? Unfortunately my spare time disappeared shortly after this thread with my Dad falling ill and Dying leaving me as full time carer for my Mum which only ended earlier this year.

Jack on front and rear subframes. Most 2 post lifts have pads that screw out to allow levelling, if this isn't enough then use extra blocks.

I believe Paul (Paulus) up in your direction has a contact that will replace ECU capacitors and repair tracks damaged by the leakage but not sure whether he has test gear, I certainly don't. I'm not sure whether the engine ECU also controls the gearbox or whether there's a separate control. Worth doing some research. When I was looking into my auto box that went erratic, it looked more like it was a traditional auto box with mechanical/hydraulic control modified by solenoids. In my case the problem was solved by another 'box rather than electronics.

There are specialist suppliers than can source pretty much anything for these cars, worth asking on here.

I suspect the £700 is all the parts required for MOT and labour,not just the subframe.

It's getting very very hard to find parts for older cars through the normal channels. I think many supply chains broke during covid and the less lucrative ones have never been re-established. I this is one of the main reasons mechanics are tending to avoid working on older cars and are so keen to write them off for simple problems. Forums such as this one are a godsend as they provide information on specialist suppliers, specialist garages and even the technical knowledge for DIY.

Wales is so full of little gems it's hard to go along all of them in one lifetime.

Last time I sold a car (other than to friends) was 20-30 years ago and autotrader worked the best, paper version back then. For buying, I've found gumtree tends to have much more genuine sellers. Ebay is just full of con merchants both buyers and sellers. If it's in particularly good condition (sounds like it is) it may even be worth looking at Mathewsons, though it's probably too new still.

I had something along similar lines on my SS1 but that also included very rough changes which gave a bit of a thump in the bavk changing up at higher revs. The gearbox eventually went bang overtaking and left me with reverse or neutral. Sorted with a gearbox change, wasn't ecu.

But is it the right answer within seconds ?

I think classifieds were moved from being a sub-forum to their own separate place which may have caused some confusion.

i would try TCB or gT4 play as first port of call.

I've got a pile of centre caps at the factory. I never fit them as they can fall off. That was my old workhorse back when they were cheap - I rescued that one from scrap as it had LPG so was as cheap to run as my diesel clio on long runs.

Popping out for lunch.

Worth trying TCB as well. www.tcbparts.co.uk They also do secondhand parts and loads that's not listed on the site.

On the gen 6 you don't actually need the engine running, just ignition on and push the throttle. If you have a second person they can keep the throttle down to keep it running.

In both cases the Toyota red is the best stuff to use. I've seen inside engines run with Toyota red, and engines run with normal aftermarket stuff. I also forgot to mention, blipping the throttle with ignition on also provides confirmation the pump is working. It's becoming increasingly common as the age goes up for these to stop working. It's usually worn out brushes in the motor but often worth getting a re-con pump. Available from GT4-play or TCB. Either low level or failed pump will produce the code 54 error.

What they don't tell you is to do it with the pump running as this drops the level at the cap. Blip the throttle with the ignition on and the pump should run for about 30 seconds.

I would tend to contact Martin Kingston as a first port of call. MK autos in Blackburn. Standard pistons plus standard rings cost nearly the same as forged which come with rings.

Not looked in a gen 7. The gen 6 has quite a few SMT but still quite a bit of through hole. To a certain extent I was forced into SMT as many of the newer chips just aren't made in through hole. I'm fortunate to have a local SMT production company which does small quantities without huge charges so it's actually become cheaper than through hole even in 25's. I am starting to be able to handle SMT myself although only for prototypes, not for production as I don't have an oven to ensure the correct heating profile to solder reliably under chips whithout overheating them. These things help enourmously: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/magnifiers/1830966 Tantalums are fine provided you stay within the voltage ratings, they are very intolerant of voltage surges. Although they are low ESR I still tend to use them with a paralell ceramic, this may also make a difference.

I've certainly heard that E10 goes stale faster. Water in small quantities isn't harmful other than causing local corrosion if it's stood - some of the GT4 guys fit water injection when running high boost to keep things cooler and reduce detonation. From my experience garden machinary isn't made to the same standard as cars unless buying top quality professional stuff. Cars have much more legislation governing things like fuel compatibility, garden machinary it's just market forces. If a £150 mower goes wrong after 3 years people just shrug their shoulders and buy another. It's very different with a £15K car.