ams

Be careful using G3 - if you don't know what your doing you could make it a lot worse

If mechanically it's good, I would stick with it, a few years ago now, I tried to get a good one for my cousin, and it took 6 months to find a genuine descent low mileage one. The situation has got worse, unless your willing to spend £4500 upwards

my mate had one brand new when they first came out - must be coming up to 3 years now, has done around 30,000 miles and had no problems so far, perhaps an abused one? Ive sat in the back of his on a 4 mile journey and im 6foot, wasnt great but wasnt any worse than the 7

sounds a good price at 1600 dependant on history

OK so first place Id go is the alarm ECU, its attached to the side wall in front of the drivers door tucked under the dash - hope that makes sense if you get it off and get the part number I should be able to do one fairly cheap - not sure thats where the problem is but its a good place to start, its a small black box 4inch x 3 inch x 2 inch and says TVIS on it If you have a sunroof - its worth checking if its got wet

And the lights flashed?

with such a long distance, the problem is if you break down on the motorway, the aa wont tow you and getting an emergency recovery will cost 3-10 times more than a pre-booked recovery

Did it just unlock the doors or did it disarm the alarm as well (did the lights flash)? This will help identify if its a fault on the central locking or the alarm

did you see it unlock ? as in the lights flashed?

its a temporary fix on a throwaway car it will block your rad and heater matrix and if you plan on repairing your car - give you more stuff to fix

looking at the distance - i think you could get a quote off shiply for around £160 all in transporterhire look reasonable if you can do 2 cars in a day

Cheapest option is to go onto shiply and get a quote on there, but dont go for the cheapest quote - go through the feedback I have a couple of guys I use who are very good but might be a bit more than shiply as they are based out of Birmingham

If I decide against the blue ones going into the blue car you will be the first to know mate

The problem with skirts like the Trd is that crap builds up under them which leaves the area damp. It's been a problem on cars with skirts for years. Checked under my veilsides recently but they are ok.

aerosol

plusgas is like magic - really worth buying a can

either heat them up, or if not get some proper penetrating oil like plus gas and spray it on a few hours before

bought my base model 140 for £10500 in july 2004 with 20,000 miles - now on 240,000 miles and not missing a beat doing 500 - 800 miles every week

kurust used to be a very good product - ive not used it for a number of years - but it would react with surface rust Think you then need to paint over it with something else In regards to the subframes rotting thorugh - yes they are rotting all the way through, so much has been the demand in the last few months that I have actually run out of them on the shelf and they are having to be removed on order- the years of stockpiling them has actually paid off, same went for the shelves of petrol tanks and filler pipes that I had The main area they are going is - the two arms at the top of the subframe that go forward and bolt on to the body and also the drivers side just in front of the camber bolt - which is going to be a hard area to clean and treat with it on the car

Look for a gt4 space saver

Yes the drivers side rear does corrode a lot more than the passenger side The back plates on the rear brakes are always rotten on the drivers side but passenger side are normally good Also the sills and subframes tend to go on the drivers side Also sell a lot more drivers side shocks and springs (front and rear) Drivers side headlights also out sell passenger side headlights (but thats nothing to do with road salt!) I like the puddle theory - has been bothering me for a while - also ties in with why mine might be ok - lots of wet motorway runs at high speed to wash it off underneath

So my car regularly gets covered in road salt - and it can often be a few months before I wash it and even 5000 miles upwards - terrible yes I know. Recently have had a lot of customers with rotten fuel tank and rear subframes and a few instances of sills going Now I looked under my car with a view that if the sills had started to rot (or the tank or subframe) that would be the end of it but to my suprise all were solid and better than a lot of others that I see. Now I dont know if its that my car does lots of long runs or the rain from the road washes it off but started me thinking is it really road salt that rots cars (wont do any good I know that) - I know people who live by the coast suffer from the sea breeze bringing in sea water which will ruin a car.

ask for a picture of just the drivers bolster, it dont look very good from here

t-cut red polish will bring that back to life