Insanity-74 Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 I have noticed that with certain brands of body filler you tend to end up with lots of air bubbles in it once its dry so when you come to paint, there are many little craters in the filler to errr fill in. What's causing this? I mix the filler with a small metal rod, is there a better way of mixing the filler and the setting agent? Is the way I am mixing it introducing air? It's becoming rather frustrating as every time I think I am ready to paint, after the first coat of primer it looks like a flat pin cushion and I either have to use lots of filler primer or more filler. At the moment I am using U-Pol easy sand body filler, which I thought was a good brand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublet Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggy Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 (edited) I use the applicator to mix the filler,not a rod...Also a good primer would help.. Upol should be fine..i have used it before... as the video shows,it should be folded as mixing..not stirred.. Edited August 26, 2013 by Biggy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianGT Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 I think using a rod has too small an area to get it totally mixed. Use a spatula type tool and really pound the filler and hardner until it looks a totally solid colour. I think we all tend to just give it a quick mix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaungt4 Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 I have always used the plastic padding with no problems. As above it's in the mixing it needs to be folded together rather than stirred to get the air out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
izzzzythedog Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 plastic padding is easily the best , its also very flexable p38 is also good but not as good as pp car plan and general others tend to be cheaper mixs that require more layers to fix issues the air holes occur due to vrs things , a poor mix by the user where the lot isnt blended very well as an example if your refering to tiny pin holes that react when you paint this is down to a couple of things , normally its water in the mix , dust spray before cutting back sorts most of this but using a decent high build primer also kills it off , it can also be down to the blending process on cheap filter or general shit on the filer itself most paint shops sell box`s of spreaders , i wouldnt mix with anything else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghoulie Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Wouldnt you have more luck posting this thread up in the gen 4 section ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaungt4 Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Wouldnt you have more luck posting this thread up in the gen 4 section ???? LOL, What you trying to say Dave were more Knowledgeable on rust, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghoulie Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 LOL, What you trying to say Dave were more Knowledgeable on rust, In a nutshell............... Yes :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzy Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 At work I use upol easy sand , followed by a thin skim of upol dolphin glaze as a stopper then 3M glazing putty to get most of the scratches and pinholes.there are 2 types I use, red for large areas if pinholes are few and far between and green if pinholes are more of a problem . even then a few may remain after highbuild primer, if so then apply some 3M glazing putty to the pinhole and wet sand down. Stoppers and glazing putty needs to be applied as thinly as possible, use the easy sand to achieve the shape. pinholes tend to occur when the filler doesn't flow when being applied, Thick fillers like the easy sand drag as its dense.that's why a wet ,nice flowing stopper such as dolphin glaze needs to be used on finishing. after the primer has dried go over it with a bright torch and look closely for pinholes, apply the putty before sanding the primer. Even after 13 years of applying the stuff i still get issues with pinholes but you just have to check closely before you put colour on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Chris_ Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Upol is what the pro's I know use. I use the easy sanding / quicksand stuff as I'm lazy and only use it as a thin skim. If you're filling holes use the stuff with fibres in (used to be upol-b from memory) I always mix as per the video above, except I don't piddle about weaving from side to side, I scoop up in one direction and squdge back down at 90 degrees. ( in the video he scoops and squidges in the same direction so the weaving is the only way he can mix left to right ). Mixing by stirring with a stick is like whisking in cooking - it introduces air bubbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_c Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 (edited) think of it like the early stages of a relationship, a bit of gentle massage is good, but forget about using your stick Edited August 26, 2013 by si_c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Chris_ Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 think of it like the early stages of a relationship, a bit of gentle massage is good, but forget about using your stick And the late stages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insanity-74 Posted August 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 OK, thanks all. I think I will give the plastic padding stuff a try. Thanks again Nial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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