dazzy Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) Can anyone please tell me what size bolts are used on a gen 6, ie, m5 m6 m7 etc mainly the 10mm nuts/bolts 12mm " " 14mm " " I don't have a gauge to measure the bolts and I want to get stainless ones ordered this week. Thank you. Daz. Edited April 11, 2013 by dazzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooperman Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 be careful what you order. stainless is very hard and not as strong as some steel bolts. here is a list of sizes and strengths. hope that helps andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorris Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 Can anyone please tell me what size bolts are used on a gen 6, ie, m5 m6 m7 etc mainly the 10mm nuts/bolts 12mm " " 14mm " " I don't have a gauge to measure the bolts and I want to get stainless ones ordered this week. Thank you. Daz. Thats like saying how long is a bit of string there are a lot of nuts and bolts on a Gen 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slugster Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 In my opinion, stainless nut and bolts should only be used on toilet cisterns or marine craft. If you are using it as a nut and bolt its ok but only if you use the same grade stainless nut There are so many types of stainless that can be used for fixings that trying to find the right one is almost impossible. Some of them are no better than the stainless used to make knives and forks, it won't corrode but look how easy it is to bend a fork. Another issue with stainless is that with only small amounts of dirt in the threads it can gaul up and be impossible to undo. If the bolt if subjected to heat there is almost no way to get them undone so don't fit stainless exhaust studs and nuts. I don't know why it happens but if you screw stainless into mild steel once they get tight they sometimes weld themselves together and you will sheer it before you undo it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzy Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the replies. I need 120 new nuts to replace the rusty ones removed from my split rims which turn out to be welded together so they just need to look nice and not go brown rusty. so,for example if I want to replace a wing bolt (10mm socket head) with a stainless one what would I need, i.e M? x 20mm length, flanged hex thanks. Edited April 12, 2013 by dazzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumblebee Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 In my opinion, stainless nut and bolts should only be used on toilet cisterns or marine craft. If you are using it as a nut and bolt its ok but only if you use the same grade stainless nut There are so many types of stainless that can be used for fixings that trying to find the right one is almost impossible. Some of them are no better than the stainless used to make knives and forks, it won't corrode but look how easy it is to bend a fork. Another issue with stainless is that with only small amounts of dirt in the threads it can gaul up and be impossible to undo. If the bolt if subjected to heat there is almost no way to get them undone so don't fit stainless exhaust studs and nuts. I don't know why it happens but if you screw stainless into mild steel once they get tight they sometimes weld themselves together and you will sheer it before you undo it again. dissimilar metal corrosion , one acts as a cathode and the other an anode causing accelerated corrosion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzy Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 In that case the bolts from the split rims would be stainless and the nuts mild steel so using stainless nuts would be a good thing in this instance? remember they are just for show . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumblebee Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 buy a can of dry moly spray and coat the threads , will save them picking up if you need to split them again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkey Boy 1 Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 I only use stainless steel fasteners for non-stressed or low torque areas, (ie for holding things in place) plastic undertray, numberplate screws, battery bracket etc. I also NEVER fit them dry. I always use an anti-seize compound like copper-slip. St/St bolts & fasteners can friction-weld themselves together if assembled dry and can be almost impossible or at best a real pig to drill out if you snap a bolt off in a blind hole. Some mild steel bolts are designed to stretch and yeild when assembled to a certain torque. you may find that the St/St bolts may break at a much lower torque especially if they are more decorative and have no markings on them because they've been either machined or polished off. Not all things shiny are good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzy Posted April 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) Its not that I want shiny , I want them to stay clean/free from rust. So I should steer away from stainless then, what about galvanised, thats just plated mild steel right.? I am learning by the way and I appreciate all the comments!! Edited April 12, 2013 by dazzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumblebee Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 depends on what you are fixing, why not get annodised bolts ? almost any colour you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts