
ams
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Everything posted by ams
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The argument is usually that they are owned by enthusiasts who keep up with maintenance but in my experience - this can often mean bodged jobs A few years back we had a mk1 mini come in for an mot- the bodywork and interior had been restored but underneath it was completely rotten so much so the tester ticked the dangerous to be on the road box on the bottom of the failure sheet
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Id imagine they will wait until the celica name has a significant cult following so that when it is released it has some impact. I reckon the supra name is at that point now so reckon they will release the talked about BMW/Toyota as a supra, celica is probably another 5-10 years away
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if you have paid for a repair id fit that one
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You can still get them for 5-7k when they come from sellers - the problem is a lot of dealers have been picking them up for 4-5k over the last few years and then whacking them for sale at 20k - but they sit for sale for ages
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if its in your budget send him a message
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Do it - I bought my gen4 as a guy down my street had a brand new one when I was 4 and I dreamed about it ever since the price only seems to go up , 10 years ago - they could be picked up for £100 as they were not desirable - and there were regularly 3 for sale on ebay at any 1 time - same as the gen4s - i bought a gen4 just for the heater matrix and exhaust to go into my other one member Surjit was selling his, but has sold a few of his other cars recently so maybe holding onto it now http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1986-Toyota-Celica-Supra-4-0-V8-MA61-1UZ-Retro-/112503914841?hash=item1a31c18159:g:uLcAAOSw-K9ZD4rA
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with a classic car its very rarely an investment, unless you find a bargain, you may break even on it but a lot of the time it will require ongoing maintenance, I also dont believe in just parking them up if you import one and sell it on straight away, then you could turn a profit - but it can be hit and miss as you are buying blind
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why not measure one on your car
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i dont have one to hand to measure dont normally need to replace all of them - very rare for more than 1 to go unless something has gone wrong. toyota did use to say there were 3 types but I dont know the differences
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mr t used to charge £1.50 a stud - but that must be at least 10 years since i bought one. I sell used ones for £1.50 each plus post rotate the hub so the broken one is at 3 oclock - if you look on the back of the flange you will see a dip in the shield behind the flange to allow the head to go past - will then be able to whack it out. Put new one in - tap it as much as you can and then put a nut on and tighten up so that it pulls it through - check it on the back to make sure its all the way in
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can not believe mr T prices sometimes
ams replied to team alchemist's topic in General Celica Discussion
It can be quite an effort to stop it going up and also a bit of a pull too get it down again, I wouldn't recommend it as you almost end up twisting the tailgate to get it down a set of half worn spoiler struts usally work well on non spoiler cars. -
can not believe mr T prices sometimes
ams replied to team alchemist's topic in General Celica Discussion
have fitted the SGS ones before and they are ok the prices from mr -t can vary hugely between dealers -
there was a model that did fit - but its been a few years so that model may no longer be made as regs have changed have a search
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A looked after celica very rarely fails on anything serious The only ones that do tend to be badly oil burning 140s on emissions (when I say bad i mean pouring out smoke). Now rotten subframes, tanks and filler pipes are the big ones - but its not all of them (mine is W reg, 271000 miles and all are solid) and I have never done anything to clean / protect it underneath and have even been known to go 10,000 miles between washes (through winter). Over the years have seen plenty of cars come in with long lists of failures that when they have been retested have not been failures at all. I have also seen cars come in (from elsewhere) with a years MOT with serious failures (one had no handbrake, no fog light, headlights that had virtually no output and suspension that was knocking its arse off on both sides as well as several other issues.)
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does your amplifier not have a blue remote line/wire on it anyway?
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Your diagram looks wrong as the relay is not earthed Here is how I wire in relays and have done for years Permanent live > Fuse > 30 Earth (negative) 85 Ignition based live > fuse > Switch > 86 (You can change this so that its permanent live, or remove the switch so that it comes on wiith igntion) Output to accessory > 87 87A is not needed in most setups What is that you are trying to run through the relay? And how do you want it to come on?
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some pads can come with too much paint on, making them tight in the carrier, EBC are bad for it
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usually its sliders not moving freely or pads not moving freely in carrier that cause the inside to wear like that
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worn shock absorber will cause a tyre to wear out quicker But if its not that then the passenger side wheel is the one that gets traction, whilst the drivers one does nothing when you are in a slip condition. IE if you are spinning the wheels - the passenger one will spin and have power whilst the drivers one wont because of the Diff
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The build quality and component quality on the European built toyotas is a world apart from the Jap built Cars. There are so many components on the 7 that never fail. But on the Euro built ones those same components fail regularly. The japs use denso which originally was part of toyota , the euros use Bosch / Valeo. Things like fans, window regulators door actuators just don't fail on the Jap cars but they fail on every Euro built car. Even gearboxes - the Euro's all fail at about 100-150,000. The Gen7 ones I can't give away apart from the 190 ones when they are abused and that's usually crashed synchros rather than proper failures like the Euro ones.
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I agree BUT Toyota have been very reluctant with diesels. Until about 2000 most of the car diesels were Peugeot units (which were actually very good back then) With Lexus, they always said they didnt want to put a diesel engine in until they were happy with it, they eventually did and then they saw a big boost in sales BUT they dropped diesels quite quickly again because although they were reliable they couldnt match the 300,000 mile reliability of the petrol engines. The word is that they will return to the coupe market with a hybrid, My next newish car purchase im planning on is an rc300h unless they bring back the celica badge (silly I know)
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Also around the late 90s / early 00s, people started taking more of an interest in MPG and you started seeing it printed at the bottom of adverts, the rise and popularity of the diesel also coincided with this. My mate who runs a petrol station used to sell less than 10% diesel around 20 years ago (when I worked on his till) - now its over 50%. The 6 and 7 at there time of release were a sort of half way house (with the exception of the gt4) - not huge performance or huge MPG so perhaps a limited market
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With the US, Id imagine a lot of it do with tax. Sometime in that time line, car manufacturers (and buyers) clocked on to the fact that SUVs could be classed as business vehicles and 100% written off as tax on purchase - which led to a huge rise in popularity of SUVs around the same time of the decline shown above. For UK figures try howmanyleft - im sure they have some figures on there of the original registrations - may not go back as far as the 5.
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only time ive seen this was a faulty temperature sensor but that was with the stock ECU, with it working ok with the standard ECU, id go for the apexi first im afraid.Or try the apexi in someone elses car to be 100%
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Did the problems start after you changed the clutch?