Infiniteblue

Yeah sounds like its a good solid example i dont think its too hard to keep these rustfree at bay key is i think to just know the few areas to pre-empt in the firstplace. Your sills are amazing ive yet to take my covers off yet but am hoping for something similar obviously. I dont think a bit of rust on the outer sills would be too bad to treat, its just if it was the full sill or inner sill probably. FYI theres a spot above the sills in the door jamb/pillars that can go rusty ive noticed possibly more on the sunroof models? I think it could be treated thro the door open/shut sensors. OR am contemplating maybe drilling a couple of extra access/drain holes in certain places, have you or anyone got any experience or opinions on whether this is a good idea or not?

Sounds like youve done a good job there, your sills look immaculate for the age, have you done much to them before and if so what cos it defo seems to have worked? Re: those white clips are all over the celica if u wanna swap any out in places ive used universal ebay packs which seemed to work almost as well in past.

Ive just gotta handheld one not dissimilar to your new gun thats for handheld insitu confined topical sand/soda blasting not sure how good it works yet

Yeah looks like qu a good compressor that mines similar tbh they all seem to look fairly generic but dont know how they differ in quality but that looks a good un. And your gun looks a good one, in fact ive just bought a sandblaster that looks v similar to that to do the samejob cos the paraffin gun that came with my cheap compressor kit fell to bits, u mite even be able to sand/soda blast any rust away easy with it first too.

Looks a pretty good compressor that should do the job nicely, i stick a cardboard box over the motor temporarily quietens em right down. Yeah ultra dry s gonna prolly really help maybe blast out with just compressed air before you start. Im considering drilling a couple of extra strategically placed extra drain holes in mine- good idea dyou think? The sill covers are easy to remove from what i can remember just 3 bolts, the clips are harder to remove a tool does help, but i think the covers do go back on a certain way so make a note.

Id have to double check but i think thats the same spec as mine which managed to spray oily stuff with the paraffin gun you can always thin (+ heat) it with something, thing is with the G7 its quite easy if u prise open the sill cover clips (or remove em) it increases drainage a lot and u can inject thro there, but tbh you really want to remove the sill covers anyway, its not worth doing a proper job without really cos thats where a lot of the corrosion/stuck on mud comes from, youll see if any areas need welding first and maybe where to conc on, and if so theres loads of access holes where you dont have to spray very far. Tbh it mite be better in the spring but anyway i mainly used to squirt in thro the door sill covers then park on a slope so it runs to the ends

Yeah and surface preps supposed to be v important but obv thats easier said than done in many places, it doesnt 'seem' to have made any difference with mine but then again i cant see underneath or inside it

Ive used all sorts of stuff, nothing sophisticated but seemed to have done the trick to good effect, but mainly on the regular periodic application of the prone areas if nothing else, know most of the drain hole application areas and yeah drain holes being able to drains likes been said is equally as important. Now if youve got the waxoyl already u could always mix something to go with it too.

Cheers, yeah I'm not sure how they're supposed to work exactly, but they do look unsightly more than anything else

Yeah thanks, can't really see how it's supposed to work, don't know how crucial it is, most cars I've seen, particularly on o/s have had similar wear, only thing is in that state it's prolly only gonna make vibration/centrifugal forces worse, don't know whether it'd be better cutting em off?

Lol yeah thats dead right unlike the Celica I do all myself I've had to subcontract out for the grooming and FSH.

Yeah I know what you're saying my bonnet bumper and reg plate were pretty similar from the previous owner, the paint does seem quite fragile, but unfortunately it's now been added to by my round town parking scrapes etc!! Your car does sound pretty good for a 200k er, and with the underneath in good nick, mines similar, you d actually be hard pushed to buy a better example ironically!! Mine does look pretty shabby I suppose in retrospect maybe a bit more paintwork tlc or applying something pre motorway work may have helped poss?

Of course motorway miles is prolly much better than town miles even cosmetically. I've always wondered where they get the 12k average mileage from and whether it's totally accurately representable. I've pretty much always limited my miles to between 3 - 5 k but I do use mine quite a lot but mainly jus round town, occasionally im surprised when I've realised I've gone over the quota, but unless I was using mine for heavy motorway or daily commuting I couldn't see myself ever getting near the average 12 k. And so the low mileage 30k 10 year old car must still actually be quite a well used car.

3rd/last one

When you say 'light' how light exactly are these any stats? All I know is most alloys I've lifted are far from light, I'm trying to perceive the effect/difference on unsprung weight.

A v tasty looking wheel that have to say, the OZ ones look nice too but the JR ones for me just look too similar to the standard tsports

It's one of the best long term expenditures you could make if you want to do that, it sounds quite a good place price and service that, itd just ideally be done in a glorious week that we prolly get only once in a decade!!

Well that's plenty of time for it to dry out!! Must be quite a comprehensive service none of the quotes I got took that long Oh just another thing as a bit of a pointer I'd make sure the garage is offering dinitrol and not actually waxoyl it's a better product and I found the better places only offer that and not actually waxoyl

You'd think garages like this operating this sort of service all year round would have some form of drying arrangements now, but tbh I don't fully trust em and I'd wait for a nice spell spending 750 sovs. When I first got mine I looked around a lot for this sortta service and your price doesn't seem too bad compared, but I was never quite happy with the owners assurances and premises, in the end I compromised and addressed the worst areas myself, and then booked it in for a schutz undersealing my Toyota dealer does for 60 quid, but I must have rearranged it 5 times due to the weather that summer until in the end I just said sod it and got it done on a tepid day, but if u don't get it done right can do more harm than good, I think I'd wait for a bit myself personally unless you can drive to Tenerife and get it done there!! What sortta notice do they give for booking in?

I've sortta grown to quite like those p flaps but I'm not sure they'd look good on all colours, not sure about blue for instance, but yeah I think the price is way excessive for what they are, I've thought about it, but personally I think maybe going down the route of akuma with a decal or wrap coordinated to the individual car's a better route

I know what you mean bazz, it's a personal thing, but I must admit, at my age it would be a handy reminder for which side the filler caps on!!!

Hiya wolfie your engine bay looks really nice a lot cleaner than mine. The catchcan looks good what does that do and what benefits does it have? And is it easily plumbed in?

I have watched quite a few of this guy's vids he does try and do some interesting comparisons tbh