cooperman

i say chase it up or it will come back and bite you in the ass. my thoughts are if you dont chase it they will reinstate the fine and not contact you untill its to late and you will have to pay double. for the test do they have to take a reading of ambient noise and then deduct that from the final number? i always thought that taking a noise reading from a source out side a sound controlled room was impossible and at best all you could do was get a rough guesstimate out side of controled conditions. this is why they stopped it from being part of the MOT as they couldnt guarantee the results. on another note im glad that we have solved all the murders and robberies in the country to free up the police for this sort of thing. well done the constabulary. good job.

i use autocad all day. i can make the changes for you. dont know any free programs that i would trust. importing to different file formats and even different programs can through up some strange problems. just a word of warning.

well there we go. i was half right the question now is what song does it play?

looks like a pump to me.maybe light washers???

there is always the option to use a standard 4 channel amp and make sure the one you buy has high level imputs on it. this way you dont have to worry about RCA/phono leads or any thing like that. some thing like this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vibe-Slick-A1-4-3-2-Channel-Amplifier-Amp-800w-/360430357550?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item53eb52cc2e thats justa quick ebay search and you maybe better off speaking to custom ice on here to see wha he can get for you.

i have all the kit to do it but the 250mile round trip is a little to much to make it cost affective. hope you get it sorted.

i could find out what the price is for janspeed here in salisbury to do it. think its somethink like £40. if thats a possiblity let me know and i will find out.

por15 is a good call but very time consuming. best way to go though as you should only need to do it once. there are companies out there that will re-underseal the car from you and/or waxoil it for you but i all ways see this as a temp measure as it needs toping up every now and then. andy

the theory is there but i can see a few problems. 1st would be the amount of smoke he had after doing the work. was it a diesel? 2nd that is only an 8valve head. 3rd plugs are in the centre on the 3sge 4th the head on the 3sge is deep 5th i dont think there is a pry bar spring compressor for the 3sge. apart from that it should be simple.

i know on some engine you can get special tools that go down through the spark plug hole to hold the valve in place. i also didnt have a compresion tool to take the collets out of my head at the time and got them out no problem. there is a way. but in saying that i did buy a tool after to put the collets back in. otherwise it would have been a nightmare. you can also buy tools that work like a pivot bolted to the head its self so you can compress the valve springs, like this. http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/210603248/Universal_Overhead_Cam_Valve_Spring_Compressor.html the down fall like i said is that the valve moves very freely with out the seal on and i would just not risk it without something holding the valve in place.

not heard of it being done on the 3sge and having almost finished rebuilding one at the moment i cant see how you be able to as the valves move to easily when the stem seal is removed. im guessing you mean valve stem seals as well? andy

so you still have no chance of beating them then? in fact unless you get it sorted they will just be laughing as they pull away. i dont really pay any attention to what is going on outside the car when im driving. the only thing i see is the road and the corners coming up. the only thing that has really got my attention was a red honda NSX. could tell what it was in the rear view so slowed down and it shot past on an A road at what must have been 120-150mph easy. at the end of the day if you think your car is fast get it on a track and do it right, if not then just dont bother. always find that if any thing is right behind me that its always gone after the first corner when they have to slow down, 4ws and coilovers make for mostly flat out cornering.

no not the law and as far as i know never has been. i do carry mine though. but its a space saver. have never even tried it so dont no if it fits. look way to small and would not be surprised if it didnt fit to be honest. but its there and makes me feel better knowing its there if i need it. most modern cars now do not come with a spare at all. some come with tyre weld and some with nothing at all. some with space savers and some with full wheels.

always just use the hand brake unless on a very steep hill. always check the brakes at least once a year including the hand brake so i no they are there and will be working. always start the car with the clutch down, this is just good practice. takes about 20% of the drain off the starter motor when starting. tend to find with this even in the coldest of weather its only about half a turn and she is up and running. less drain on the battery and starter motor. main thing to remember is to get your brakes check regularly if you cant do it yourself.

im sure they dont have an immobilliser on them. was also sure that the system is a "standard toyota factory fitted". thats normally enough for most insurance companies.

think your find he said mechanical parts guys. the oil pump for the 3sge is difficult to find. also the crank pulley is difficult to find. to be far there isnt alot thats not easy to pick up.

i remember reading the thread of all the work that went in to the car. now its difficult to put a price on it as there was alot of mods on the car that just cant be replaced. the link given to BOB's car is a good start. mods on a car doesnt always add value to a car at the end of the day. but i would deffinatly be looking for 7.5k as a min price. i think the best thing maybe to do is look at other classic cars modded to the same standard and offer these up as a comparison. maybe like this standard good car, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-100E-POPULAR-DELUXE-CLASSIC-CAR-WEDDINGS-SHOWS-/290635079140?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item43ab335de4 then this as a modded version, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1959-FORD-POPULAR-100E-HOTROD-TURBO-MUST-SEE-/250936425456?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3a6cf9fbf0 you can then say that if bobs was 7.5k then you should be looking for 9.5k and then some. dont think you will find any thing out there to compare to so a comparison is as close as you might get. sorry i cant be more help. andy here's bob sale on ebay as well. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330626161858?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2Fcsc%2Fi.html%3F_nkw%3D330626161858%2B%26_sacat%3D29751%26_dmpt%3DAutomobiles_UK%26LH_Complete%3D1%26_odkw%3Dcelica%26_osacat%3D29751%26_trksid%3Dp3286.c0.m270.l1313%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

i think if you could put a rough price down then you may get some people interested. i will keep you in mind for work though. can you do batch stuff? and small batch stuff. small springs like throttle spring?

dont toyota own a large part of subaru now like 50% as they were going under until toyota came to save them? lol plus i wouldnt even bother racing them just wait untill they have near on 50k miles on the clock and just laugh as there shit engine made of chocolate goes pop and he has a bill for £2.5k for a replacement. friend of mine had a pink badge JDM version (surpose to be special???) with about 80k miles on the clock and the only thing that he hadnt have change was the turbo. had a new gear box, 3 engines and most of the running gear had broken in that time. he got so pissed off that it had cost him about £24k in 4 years that he then sold it and bought a gen 4 celica well he looked round for a BMW M3. at the end of the day there big and there not clever, the engine is to highly strung and will go wrong with big bills way before your celica does so dont worry about it.

TAKE A LOOK HERE.

have to say you are wrong on that one. M6 will be 5mm hole size M7 will be 6mm hole size this is not a equal for all, as M10 is 8.5mm and M5 is 4.2mm. (all sizes are approx.) M7 does equal a 7mm bolt diameter though. just so people know.

ok well with what has been said i think i will just goe for it then. any thing that is not important i will change up. thanks guys. andy

thanks for the info so far guys. keep it coming. have read up on galling already and it sounds like a ball ache.

so does any body know if on my engine build can i use stainless bolts on most things? now i know for things that dont matter like the rocker cover and things like that its ok. but what about things like the water pump housing? oil pump housing, sump pan. even things like mounting brackets? also well im at it stainless steel has a Coefficient Of Friction just over twice that of mild steel so do people use two times the torque on there stainless bolts? i can get hold of some thing like A2 70 stainless steel bolts that have strenths amlost the same as the listed toyota 4T class. im sure i should be able to match up the rest of them well im there as well. like the high tensile bolts there should be a stainless alternative. any body have any views on this? is there any thing i have missed? thanks andy