slybunda

Fiesta used to take a big hit in power when front and rear windscreen demisters are turned on. With grounding kit added the hit is noticeably reduced.

does that snow plow attachment on the front bumper come in handy then?

seen this at different mot stations and testers, noisy exhaust is usually up there with undertrays blocking view of under engine or something on those lines. its just the mot tester covering his own back, and rightfully so. dont want to risk loosing the mot licence.

Managed to tidy up and treat the rear drivers side wheel well. Weather is not allowing me sort the passenger side out. Need to remove the arch plastic liner and check on fuel filler condition and treat it if needed. Also need to get the side skirts off and apply cavity wax. May just wait till summer to do that.

And he was happy: With his cake. Amazing printing job coloured cream and icing the potato phone camera doesnt do it justice.

Has anyone done the ceramic coating on the car? I seen diy youtube videos showing how its done. Wondering if anyone has done it and has some feedback. Like to know if it can help protect from stone chips on the motorway.

Whats with greasing the fuel flap? Iv never done that and not had issues. But again prevention is better than cure. Does it sieze up?

Dont bother with main dealer for mot. Find a council run place that doesnt do any work on cars and just mot. For servicing find a local club member who could help you out with oil changes and filters etc.

The sunroof has drains so i assume its designed with some leakage around the sides in mind. I managed to sort out my leak issues fairly easily. The part where the rubber seals with on the roof the sides of the hole in the roof where the sunroof fits. It has a lot of crud and dirt stuck to it. Used a rough cloth and rubbed around it for ages and got all the crap off and its smooth to the touch. No more leaks since i did it. Im guessing when dirty it allows too much water to get in too quicky and then overloads the drains and you get some over spillage into the car. Ya could seal the sunroof too the body with ducktape and see if it makes a difference. That will tell you it is a problem with the sunroof. Other area for that sort of leak could be the weather strips on top of the car closer to the boot side. Under there i had some cracks in the metal and used sealer to sort it.

Looking at that list most cars of that age need those things doing. Some need a lot more done. As ams says need to inspect the car before purchase

from what iv read its to do with water content and it eating seals and pipes.

U could save well over 100 quid if u insure 3 weeks early. I used compare the market and found that if u do last minute insurance you pay a lot more than if u do it in advance and set a start date of 3 weeks or so later. Also check out greenlight for insurance i think they give club discount.

Full compatability list. https://www.acea.be/publications/article/e10-petrol-fuel-vehicle-compatibility-list

also: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1191630 momentum 99 from tescos already is 9% ethanol!

Looks like we may be in the clear: Here is a list of ACEA member company petrol vehicles compatible with using BMW group: All petrol engine BMW models are cleared for the use of E10 petrol regardless of their year of manufacture but the minimum octane required should be observed according to the owner’s manual. Mercedes-Benz: E10 petrol is cleared for use in the vast majority of all Mercedes Benz vehicles with petrol engines, except: first generation direct injection C200 CGI (W203), CLK 200 CGI series (C209) of the years 2002 – 2005; models not equipped with three-way catalysts, models retrofitted with three-way catalysts or produced with a carburettor. These are mainly vehicles older than 25 years. Ford: E10 is cleared for use in all petrol driven Ford models sold in Europe since 1992 excluding: Ford Mondeo 1.8 SCI from 2003 to 2007. Personal imports not approved by Ford of Europe are not included in the above statement. Jaguar - Land Rover: Jaguar: E10 petrol is cleared for use in all Jaguar vehicles with petrol engines starting from model year 1992. Land Rover: E10 petrol is cleared for use in all Land Rover vehicles with petrol engines starting from model year 1996. Opel-Vauxhall: E10 petrol is cleared for use in all Opel-Vauxhall vehicles with petrol engines, excluding:  Models with the 2.2 litre direct injection petrol engine, motor code: Z22YH (Vectra, Signum, Zafira). Toyota Motors group: Toyota: E10 petrol is cleared for use in all Toyota European petrol models made from January 1998, excluding: Avensis 2.0 L with engine 1AZ-FSE made between July 2000 and October 2008. Avensis 2.4 L with engine 2AZ-FSE made between June 2003 and October 2008. Volvo cars: E10 petrol is cleared for use in all Volvo cars with petrol engines introduced to the market since 1976 based upon servicing and other conditions according to the equipment and material with which the vehicle . E10 petrol is not cleared for a limited number of S/V40 models with petrol engines produced in the mid-1990s with engine type 1.8 GDI. From https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/1009524/E10-petrol-car-compatible-check-fuel/amp

Would have thought anyone hoarding a classic car would see massive value drop since there will be no fuel to run it in few years. Doubt a conversion is possible or feasible without an engine swap for something more modern.

New article here: http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/cars/article-6109487/Almost-one-million-UK-cars-arent-compatible-new-E10-petrol-set-introduced.html Says come 2020 they will stop selling e5 and high octane fuel and all will go to e10. So whats the verdict? Time to sell up now?

Wont use any compound on paintwork risks wearing out the paint. Just use pressure washer to wash the car. Then use shampoo bottle attachment and spray all over the car with pressure washer. Then just rinse the car down with the pressure washer. Takes 10mins and im done.

i only did it using the mop on the drill. will get some sand paper and give it a shot.

Oh? I been using metal polish tcut brand from the get go on the engine. So i should have used that meguires ultimate stuff on the engine insted? Thats mad. Wasted load of metal polish and not got the results. Damn. Whats most aggressive compound i can get? Dont have the energy to do sand paper by hand and too risky using the electric sander may end up going right through the pipes. On that note anyone know the thickness of those pipes?

i got not very far into it, battery ran out but progress was made on the 4 pipes of the intake, 2 of those shined up to mirror like fairly quickly but the cover itself taking ages. will continue another day. but those foam pads dont seem to cut it. need something more abrasive. shine is so much the camera phone cant handle it lol.

cool, can it do the engine valve cover and intake manifold too to make it like yours?

got tired of doing it by hand, so bought a kit similar to this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18x-3-Waxing-Polish-Polishing-Buffer-Pad-Kit-Drill-Adapter-For-Car-Polisher/132678750803 mine has 11 pads in it so was cheaper. i used the orange pad on a cordless screwdriver drill thingy: and the result is : with minimal effort. this is a far better result than iv ever had by doing it by hand. the kit costs 3 quid if u just want 4 sponges, but spend the extra 2 quid as in that link iv given and u get 18 pad kit. next step is to try the engine intake and valve cover.

Agree with ams on that. Also found that peeps on celicahobby forums in america have already been running on e10 for a while now and no issues reported. If more fuel needs to flow is there still some headroom left on our injectors? The usdm celica is detuned and puts out less power than a jdm and uk one so dunno if thats the contributing factor to allow those cars to work with e10.

Can our cars run on the e10 stuff though?