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Insanity-74

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Everything posted by Insanity-74

  1. Any battery that dosnt require being vented will be fine.
  2. I am looking for a dry cell battery that will suit my needs, (I want to start building the enclosure for it so need the dimensions) Other than the normal operations of the car, I will be running quite a good sound system, I dont want to go too over the top, there will only be a radio, and a couple of small amps to power. Any recommendations as to which battery to use and where best to install it, right at the back of the boot, where the back seats used to be? somewhere else? cheers Nial
  3. Happy Anniversary Insanity-74!

  4. The best garage by far is MK Autos in Blackburn http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/forum/224-mk-auto-repairs-and-tuning-ltd/ Martin is unsurpassed when it comes to Celicas, there are many good garages that are Celica specialists but Martin goes that extra mile that makes the difference between a good garage a great garage. The only place I take my Celica to when I find a job I cant do myself....or cant be bothered to do myself. :) Well worth the trip no matter where you are in the country.
  5. Clean it up, cut around the edges carefully with a scalpel and spray clear coat over it, stop it from getting bigger. If you good with a rattle can, a bit of buffing and you,ll hardly be able to notice it.
  6. I wouldnt bother, just leave it taxed, if the winters not that bad you can take it out for a spin if the fancy takes you, road tax isnt that much, its not really going to save you a fortune. Plus you can take it for a run every now and then to keep everything turning nicely. Worst thing I ever did was lay the Faff up for a few months, I'll never do it to a car ever again.
  7. Excellent, I cant thank you enough, I am almost certain to take you up on that offer, when the time comes I will be in touch, I dont expect it to be soon (as in the next few months) as I will need to do a few other things first, hopefully get it to a rolling shell which will make things easier, I will PM you later on with a paint code and some advice on prep before hand. Thanks again, if this site had a "thanks" button I would press it
  8. That's very generous! I will definitely keep that in mind. Where abouts are you? The main problem is getting the car to you, the hire cost of a car transporter adds a few hundred quid to the cost.
  9. Selby is closer, I will look into it when I have a spare few hours...ideally I want someone very close so I can nip in and "Check progress"
  10. RT Performane is too far away, I want somewhere reasonably close so if I get home and I am not happy I dont have to treck the length of the country to get it put right!.....but thanks for the suggestion.
  11. As I am nearing the stage with my rebuild that I am ready to start the respray I dont quite know which route to take, the cost of getting it sprayed professionally is going to cost me between £2500 - £3000 and then some. If I was to do it myself, a compressor is going to cost about £500, all the spraying equipment about £300 and the paint probably another £300 so thats just over a grand. Last time I had a car sprayed it had to go back time and time again and was never right, I am pretty sure in my mind that no matter where I take it to, they are not going to take as much care and attention over it as I would. I am limited for space and it would be a tight squeeze spraying in my garage, I would have to plastic sheet it out to eliminate dust etc I couldnt bake the paint. I now most of the effort is in the prep, and I wouldnt mind that, and to some degree the paint can be improved afterwards by wet sanding etc if I bugger it up a bit. What do people think? save some cash and do it myself or spend more money and get it done by a pro and perhaps be disappointed. I also have the rotisserie to help with doing things like the roof etc Any help / advice would be greatly appreciated.
  12. I went...about the 4th time I have been, unless things improve dramatically I wont be going again, appart from being a 9 hr round trip it was exactly the same as the last time I went 2 years ago,......and the time before that.....nothing changes, all the stands were more or less identical, same stands etc etc...it was like being sent back in time 2 years
  13. I don't really like noisy exhausts, but fuck me, talk about taking all the fun out of something. What happens if you have a classic car...they are usually pretty noisy....or a Ferarri etc. we will all be forced to drive Prius's soon.
  14. I would have to agree, the GT4 is in a bad place at the moment, their cheapness has encouraged young boy racers to buy them who dont look after them, run them into the ground and flog them on cheap, combine that with the current bad second hand car market and they are no where near their true value.
  15. Remove the lot carefully, try not to damage the paint, then go and purchase some tiger seal, some thin plastic and some paint thinners. Cut a shallow "U" into the thin plastic and some kind of guide to run along the edge of the arch. Then put the tiger seal around the arch where you removed the old seam sealer. Then apply some thinners with a lint free cloth, run the plastic over it with the shallow "U" cut into it...this will mould the tiger seal into the same shape as the stuff you removed. Leave it to dry. Mask off the paintwork and spray the new seal the same colour as the car, when its dry job done....rsist the temptation to polish it for a month, then you can set to it.
  16. Sonic from the GT4OC is running something like 640bhp in a GT4...not sure if he is a member on here though
  17. Acid etching......if the VHT paint requires it then yes...if not then no most sand blasters will soda blast as well....if not, then sand blasting should be OK, just make sure you get rid of all the sand before you do anything else......and mask off the internals which could be difficult....the sand can get into the smallest crack.
  18. I would just wire brush them to save money, but sand blasting is fine...soda blasting would be better as its water soluble so will clean up alot better with less risk of contamination with sand in the system...although its pretty easy to remove all the sand with little effort. Also forget Hammerite, I hate the stuff, its thick, stinks when it gets hot and chips easily when aged a bit......... there are a lot better paints available. At the very least I would use VHT paint, lasts well and comes in a good selection of colours http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint/vht-paints.html Eastwood paints are very good although have less colour selection http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint/eastwood-paints/silver-high-temp-coating-333g.html The best...or at least my favourite http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint/por15-paints/por15-black-velvet-heat-resistant-paint.html but only available in black Also Halfords VHT paint isnt bad...painted my calipers black with it about 5 years ago and they still look good. You could also try the POR15 Hardnose paint, but I am not sure how heat resistant it is http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint/por15-paints/por15-hardnose-paint-black-946ml.html
  19. How quickly do you want them? My folks live near by but I dont know when I will visit them next...could be a couple of weeks.
  20. What's the problem? A club member might be able to help. I used to fit all my own stereos and sound systems years ago, although my knowledge is very basic and probably out of date by now I'd be happy to try and help......saves you a few quid.
  21. The GT4OC is well worth joining......despite your dipleasure/hatred at the place...which I fully understand...its still a good source of knowledge. The DC is also good if you want to get very technical. I also put the "What to look out for when buying a GT4" on here somewhere.
  22. At the time of writing this 7 years, 7 months, 30 days, 7 hours and 41 mins I still have the credit card receipt
  23. I am free this Saturday if you want to bring it to Harrogate??? If all else fails I have a BFO grinder
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