I guess that's what you get with retail jobs in this country, no sense of longevity and a high staff turnover means that bot parties deem actual understanding, training and knowledge surplus to requirements
10 years ago I worked on a petrol forecourt / MG Rover parts and service counter. As part time staff I only had knowledge because of my keen interest in cars. most of the staff, even the supervisor didn't know the difference between an engine and a gear box
Toyota ready mixed is £26, comes in a 5L container, and you'll be left with at least half a litre providing you don't chuck loads on the floor. You can't go wrong with that unlike everything else, and if you buy concentrated you'll have to factor in the cost of de-ionised water too!
This, put the fibre glassing experience to good use and sculpt the lip in though, and then maybe the arches also.
There are plenty of other lips out there for other cars that could be made to suit to avoid the look of the picture you posted.
But because you asked so nicely, between the bottom corners it's 97.5cm and along the bonnet line it's 105cm, that's including the slight curve though.
Because........ OEM!
Nah I remember there was a discussion before and red was much longer lasting than pink iirc and Toyota red wasn't much difference in price to other red coolants.
I'm sorry to say but that actually made me laugh out loud! Not at your misfortune of course, but the idiocy that someone thought the paint was black. I think the trouble is with the metal flake being hard to achieve in a touch up kit. I know that paints for you do a touch up kit in Carbon Blue 210, but it's listed as black, I've got no idea of the match, but their aerosol of the same colour is pretty good.
This is their reference code: 20637337
http://www.paints4u.com/AutoColours.aspx?ProductID=5260
*Easily for you*
If you're being pedantic, and we all know you like correcting spelling and grammar Dubs!
I'll agree with the 103Nm though, On the 7 I torqued mine to 106Nm which is what is recommended for the wheels iirc, and I wouldn't go below that.
Just remember to check the nuts after fitting and driving for 50 miles or so, this will require removing the wheels so they will need to be checked a second time. The trick is to find the lowest torque that is required that doesn't allow the nuts to come loose.
It looked stunning at Japfest, but I didn't get the oil cooler then, and I still don't get it now, why would you spend so much time and effort to get a car looking so good to drill holes in the perfectly restored front chrome bumper?
Ok it's JDM you say, but this car is so much better than JDM, it predates when it was 'cool' to make a UKDM gar look JDM by a long way!
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