_Chris_

Ice installations often have high power requirements, if the cable is large enough then electrons don't care what it said on the packet. The thing that matters is that the cable is large enough to carry the required current. If the standard cable has eyelets on the end, you can join by bolting through to another eyelet, but make sure the whole lot is well insulated and cannot chafe on nearby bodywork. Bodgit tape can wear through quite easily.

Thanks for the PM. Easy way to find out my line of business is to look at my corp page http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/159770-introduction-contact-details/ Or even follow the link in my sig. I don't generally get involved with messing about with mass market stuff I haven't designed as it's very easy to spend a lot of hours and get nowhere - no documentation, circuit diagrams, diagnostic tools etc.. The exception currently is helping out people with the 185 ECU capacitor issue which i'm doing as a favour to keep the cars on the road rather than as a money making business thing. If you can link to the guide of what needs doing, I'll have a look and see how feasable / easy it looks and go from there.

I know of a GT4 that's on near 300K miles now and still running well. It gets some hard use, but it's always warmed up & down correctly and properly maintained.

Did you hear the one about an underwear company making a new 'brand' called shatner knickers ?

Do you mean sheared a bolt or just crossthreaded ? Ideally you need a tap. When you say 14mm i presume you mean spanner size. This is most likely m10 fine. Fairly hard to get hold of bolts or taps. You can use a bolt to clean up a damaged thread by cutting 2 or 3 lenghways slots to provide a cutting edge. Effectively turning it into a tap.

I'd expect a wide variety because the celica range spans many years and many models from pretty tame low end 1.8 through to GT4 and gen 7 190. Motorsport lovers like me are attracted to the GT4 for the turbo 4wd and the rally heritage. TBH the other models have no appeal other than workhorse transport as I'm not a fan of front wheel drive. As far as my vital statistics - nearly 50, electronic / software design engineer. Run several businesses so everything from upper management down to tea boy - yes I do make the tea for staff

If the top of that resonator box already connects with the airbox, then just cut it off and leave the top piece poking through. I would presume the whole inner wing area would be fed with cold air from the front of the car so no need to run extra ducting down to the bottom, and it would save the risk of sucking in water.

Avoid a closed system fed from near the bottom of the car. You will regret it the first deep puddle you hit as it will probably destroy most of your engine parts.

What diameter is the rest of the intake plumbing ? I wouldn't go smaller than that.. As a suggestion, how about going through the inner wing into the area above the wheel arch liner. I believe this has air accessable from the area outside the fog light.

See kids, size does matter.

Check for fuel leak / smell of petrol first and ensure filler cap is on. Also be careful the grinder doesn't slip and slice into the tank / filler neck. If it does go up, at least you won't know much about it

Agree. To join wires mid loom the best bet is solder and sleeve with adhesive lined heat shrink, This seals the joint and supports around the soldered area where it will be brittle. e.g. r.s. 386-2825 http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/heat-shrink-cold-shrink-sleeves/3662825/?searchTerm=3662825&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B367D247C5E5C647B377D247C5E5C647B31307D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3336363238323526

indeed, from my posted link

This is the info I have on OBD 1 http://www.cdd.co.uk/stuff/TOYOTA.zip AFAIK you need to link E1 and TE2 in the diagnostic connector to get the data flowing out. There is a possibility this may affect engine tune slightly as a result of the extra CPU time needed to send the data, My friend Daryl ran with obd 1 logging for a while and keeps an accurate record of ecconomy on every fill up and I remember him noticing a definate trend of reduced ecconomy starting about the time he started. I will try and remember to ask him if it did appear to be the logging or if it was coincidence.

Beer for the WC ? You mean it's so bad you just pour it straight in and cut out the middle man. My Celica regularly pulls trailers. I did once pull sheep with it (toy ones).

If you were local to me I'd happily help. I may even do so yet if I get a call-out to our Royston site and have half a day spare. Shame there aren't a few more willing people dotted about.

Does indeed. Mine won't be that cheap but will allow use of the wide range of apps available for OBD2, some of which do far more than the above. it's still nice to see people prepared to provide support for our ageing vehicles, anything less than 15 years old has OBD2 as standard.

It will require a special piece of hardware to adapt the OBD1 to bluetooth, which is mentioned as details being given in the app. Contact the guy first and find out details / price beofre comitting. I'm planning an OBD1 to OBD 2 converter but unfortunately I'm bogged down with 'paying work', new business venture and getting cars running at the moment and still need to finish the precursor to this first (data logger / display / warning system). Realistically, work won't be quiet now until after the school summer holidays. When this is done, it will allow use of any standard OBD2 scan tool / software / app to read real time information.

The ECU will remember the map, I think it forgets the 'learnt parameters' such as idle etc. as per standard ECU. No idea on boost controller, but I would expect a decent one to retain it's memory - especially if it doesn't hsvr s permanent live feed.

There's only one way to learn - and that is to ask, debate ideas and listen. We all started with zero knowledge when we popped out of our mother. Wanting to improve your car is natural. We've all done it, some of us still do knowing full what what's going to happen My 185 han't driven anywhere in 2 years, currently sat in the workshop with a cracked block waiting to have time to build another engine, fit the garrett turbo, and design / fabricate a front mount intercooler & rad system I'm happy with. I also have a 205 which I've kept standard (apart from LPG) as a workhorse for my long service trips I do. Even with that one modification - better ecconomy at 70p / litre - it's at a cost of me having to re-shim the valve clearances every 15K miles ish as LPG causes rapid valve seat wear. This car works out as cheap to run as a small diesel, in fact cheaper than buying new if depreciation per mile is factored in.

Something you need to understand is there there is a lot of hype and BS spoken on the internet, especially on forums. There is also a certain amount of teasing done when people leave themselves wide open to it - Dubs being one of the worst wind up merchants on here. No harm or offense intended I'm sure, just done for comedy. To answer your main question directly - any car is a compromise of power, handling, reliability, ecconomy and comfort. Any increase in one will inevitably reduce at least one other. - e.g. fit stiffer suspension to improve handling and your teeth will chatter going down a bumpy road. Increase engine power and it will drink fuel and the extra stress will, at best, cause accellerated wear, at worst will break gearboxes, clutches and engine parts. Toyota and all the other manufacturers spend millions of pounds on R&D to come up with a good compromise of all these. Each model of car is aimed at a different compromise to suit individual needs. Celicas being a 'sports saloon' are aimed slightly more at the power and handling side and less on ecconomy and comfort. Somehow amateurs - people with very little knowledge or experience of automotive engineering - think they can make significant gains in one without loss of another, because Toyota got it so wrong originally. Put simply - start doing any significant 'mods' to your car, particularly engine mods, and you will very likely end up with an unreliable money pit that you can't afford to drive because it drinks fuel / oil / meths / mitrous and breaks every few weeks. If you want a faster car - buy a faster car. A GT4 will give you a massive performance increase, will cost you far far less than the mods you require to get the same performance from yours, will probably be more ecconomical, and a good condition one will do tens of thousands of miles without significant problems.

Why not add a dump valve while you're at it Serious mode Firstly find some realistic figures, as it will be % increase per degree not absolute bhp per degree. if this figure were accurate then an induction kit would lose about 20-30 bhp and the car would have about 40 but more on a frosty morning than midsummer. the gains from colder intake air are twofold. Firstly cold air is denser so you have more oxygen per cylinder to react with more fuel. Secondly it takes you further from detonation so you can run more advance / higher compression ratio. To achieve lower temps would require chilling. Two common methods, one is evaporation of liquid in the airstream ( spray bar ) the other would be to use the aircon system to refrigerate the intercooler. The second option would draw power from the engine which would probably be greater than the gain. Both would add significant weight.

He'll be pineing for home.

His Bark is worse than his bite.