keef-b

Any car, with any mileage has the potential to go tits up on you if you are thrashing it - hell even if you are being gentle on it things can fail. If it's going to happen then you won't get away from it - admittedly mileage and age put your motor in a bracket where the possibility is higher - no point in living under a cloud, keep thinking like that and you'll never want to turn the key on it "incase it breaks" It's your car, you love it - so bloody enjoy it! And if it breaks then you can just learn to enjoy fixing it like the rest of us have had to when the automotive gremlins get their way

The rubber mount on mine went twice, first time got a replacement direct from AEM. After it went the second time I sourced a rubber mount for some sort of fuel pump - it's a bit longer and has softer rubber so allows more movement/vibration. Might be worth looking into

Looks like the axe is falling on my diesel runabout and I'm relocating 35 miles away - making the celica affordable to run again well only a mile or two at most to get to work should make the fuel bill bearable!

Big ass box courtesy of RT Performance! Inside a set or rather snazzy looking coilovers - black bodies, white springs and red locking rings. Why the wordy description? Yup, numbnuts forgot to take pics

Get mate with a tyre fitting machine and balancer in his garage - saves a whole load of trouble I've got the mate just not the tyres (or the car soon for that matter)

Kinda where most CAI kits for the Gen7 relocate the filter too

Alex, if you are seriously going to sell and looking for maximum return then remove as much if your aftermarket stuff as possible. The lowering springs and stereo can stay as buyers like a new stereo and sometimes T Sports came with the TTE option (blag it ) The intake and exhaust will net you more selling separately on here and may actually reduce the value if not at least decrease the audience the car will be attractive too. Selling just now is going to be hard enough so best to take any potential barriers away and maximise your market.

that gives me "the fear" - watched someone do this when it was pouring down one night in Largs - i even hung around in the rain to watch the fire brigade extinguish what was left of the car . . . . .

Engine doesn't get hot enough to melt the teflon to allow it to coat the parts as claimed to give the protection as claimed. (melts @ 327C - if your oil reached that temperature i'm sure it'd be terminal for other non-metallic components e.g. any rubber seal it came into contact with!) Studies showed it actually reduced lubrication between surfaces as the solids in the oil actually swelled upon heating clogging pathways. DuPont that manufactured the teflon used in the additives tried to sue makers of Slick50 and other additive makers to stop them using "teflon" on the packaging as they didn't want their product name banded about unscrupulously. When you read up on it you wonder why you would even consider using any oil additive.

the ones in halfords tend to be the little ones that give off practically no light - on amazon or ebay you'll find "tree" type ones in different lengths with different amounts of LED's on them - should be able to get ones that'll fit your needs perfectly of you rummage about on there. Some of the more comprehensive sellers actually give the dimensions of the units they are selling so you'll know whether they'll fit or not.

lots of good and bad press about additives throughout the years - the good reviews like silvers above have had good experiences, the horror stories tell of gummed up hydraulic lifters in some engines and other such nastyness. Oddly enough my good experiences with it were with older Ford V6'd too! Was a big fan of the ZX1 additive in my gearboxes for a while but the more you read the more it seems apparent that quality oil with regular changes is just as, if not more, beneficial. Website "bobistheoilguy" or something goes into massive detail on the subjects and you can happily get lost reading there for hours on end

NOT if they are correctly aligned - just sayin'

Always had sporty stuff GTE, GTi, RS Cosworth, anything fast basically lol Then bought Japanese and realised that fast could be more affordable, had a sorted imported heavily modded GC8 impreza that was scary quick but still gave 30+mpg! After the local court took a loan of my license for 3 months due to some alleged high speed tom foolery i bought an MR2 had a whole load of those, MKI and II's, then like others decided i needed more seats but went for an FTO as it was a little off the wall. Loved that too bits but unfortunately it caught the "brown cancer" or just rust in a rather terminal fashion so had to go. Spotted a nice Gen7 T Sport with 26k miles and 1 previous owner in a stealership and decided that i'd have it - not looked back since! Great looks, superb handling, almost acceptable performance and economical into the bargain - can't fault it. Always loved the look of Gen5's ever since i first seen one but just never got round to owning one - they do do a GT4 version of that so who knows what the future holds

last time i bought retreads (or remoulds i remember them being called) was on a 1.0l austin metro about 19 years ago, i was on the tightest budget you could imagine and the tread was so spongy you could push it in with your fingers! The grip like hell in the dry had the stability of a rollerskate in the wet and were dumped for a set of budget "proper" tyres as soon as finances allowed. Never skimped on rubber since.

2.5 years-ish - agree that it's one of the better owners clubs/forums that exist.

You need the date and location that the incident happened - also a photograph of the pothole with something in it to show scale helps. I can't remember off hand just what size the pothole needs to be to be considred as such but something about the depth of the size of a can of cola is coming to mind. You then report it to your local council - not sure if you could actually claim for the damage via your insurance company and they would in turn then claim from the council. . . . . - Pretty sure someone in the proper know will be along shortly Or just read the post above, curse my slow fingers lol

Not available from Toyota anymore, pot luck if you find someone with a new set that they are willing to part with - the last set I had still in the wrappers went to GreyRacer and they currently are on his newly refurbished wheels. Mook, Slugster or Liquidart may well be able to sort you out with a stick on solution if you still have a set of caps.

The 2zz engine enjoys being at higher rpm as it's designed to deliver it's power then - i'm not saying that it should be kept there constantly but you're in no way abusing it by using the higher revs often ( very often if you want the smile to stay on your face as long as your oil is up to temperature (2nd bar on temp gauge normally) .

This! I run a W plate 306 hdi as my daily so I can run the T Sport as I want to. Comfy, spacious cheap as chips and fun handling when you push it. Also sees 65mpg when I'm plootering back and forth to work during the week.

Wheels look great, and the red dice are epic win

Yeah, go straight to Carrick or you'll pay extra ontop for the guy in RMS to drive round the corner and drop your wheels off

K-seal is lethal - quick fix = long term time bomb type problem. Had leaking radiator in an MR2 and bunged a bottle in in a "get me home" situation. When I switched out the radiator the massive coppery chunks that came chugging out the coolant pipes on draining were pretty damn frightening. Would never consider opening a bottle of it again.

I bought the pillar trim from a member on here - dark destroyer I think??, could be wrong - its a custom item with the twin pod bonded and smoothed onto a standard pillar trim, then it's been flocked to give a practically perfect finish.

the dual display was the reason i went for it - had three things i wanted displayed ( oil temp/pressure and vacuum ) but only had 2 holes to display from . . . . . gratuitous cabin shot -

fair play, they are a bit pricey but they are pretty good with programmable warning levels, switchable backlight/display colours, units, and they store high/low readings give low voltage warnings etc