Jim881

This should be better I showed you gen 7 before Sent from my Lenovo YT-X703F using Tapatalk

What gen? 7? Sent from my Lenovo YT-X703F using Tapatalk

Hope this helps mate Sent from my Lenovo YT-X703F using Tapatalk

Can't wait buddy!!! Hope the good weather keeps up so I can crack on...... Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Ha..... No the falkland islands is OK. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Well after being here for 4 months its finally time to come home and be able to join in with you lot again [emoji3] Hope theirs some sun let after being here through winter!!! Jim Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Deox c is supposed to be good. Jenolite as well. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

That's a decent price mate. I paid more but the bloke polished the whole thing. Don't yes autosol whatever you do mate. It will scratch it. Get mags mother polish. I'd steer well clear of putting any kind of coating whatsoever on any polished alloy. First of all, you don't know how it'll react to the metal, especially if you've applied some polish to it (also, a bodyshop would want to prep'/wipe over the part, probably scratching it in the process). Secondly, unless you can get a guarantee that it's heat-proof, you might get a reaction with it being under the bonnet. Thirdly, if you get a chip in the coating (from tightening a bolt, for instance), moisture WILL get under it; it'll then blister/creep further, and worse than that, it'll actually start corroding the alloy. Had the exact same problem with some bicycle crank arms - they'd been clear coated at the factory, it had worn away in places and the metal had started to be eaten away - it became a 'rescue' job rather than an outstanding one. As for protecting it while you're not using the car, if it were mine, I'd let the engine go stone-cold, then apply a layer of polish to it, and leave it. Just remember to buff it off before you re-start the car! (Post-It note over the ignition barrel) One other option would be to coat it with something like petroleum jelly (Vaseline), though I honestly don't know how it would react to alloy. I always used it on chrome when I was riding bikes all year round and it was great for keeping rust away. WD40 might be a safer option; might be worth trying it overnight sometime before you come to leave the car for a while. Try on a piece that isn't in your obvious eye-line when you lift the bonnet, that way, should it mark, it won't be obvious to someone else. One thing; whatever you put on may have dust settle on it. Be very, very careful when wiping/buffing off; even dust can act as an abrasive. That may sound a bit daunting to keep it in top-nick, but bear in mind that when I talk about getting scratches in the work, I'm usually inspecting under very good lighting conditions, from about 6 inches away, and I know what I'm looking for. To anyone else looking at it, they may not even notice tiny marks, should you happen to get any. Oh, and never buff in a circular motion; always go in the same direction where possible. Don't mind you copying mate. Isn't this what it's all about. Getting ideas from other people [emoji106] Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Snap Did they tell you how to look after it mate. There's dos and donts with professionally polished stuff? Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

I believe it's only 10hp. 5hp per sticker [emoji3] Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Standard size only [emoji38] Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Hi Dave, They love nice mate. I'll send them a pm and see if they can do a 330mm x 165mm for the rear too. Reason being I have the carbon surround. The carbon effect would go nicely. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

I've emailed both dubmiester and demon plates. So we shall see what they come back with. My last ones came from Demon plates but my rear has delaminated over the last 2 years. Another reason for pressed metal ones. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

The pressed plate in that size. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk I'll look into it mate, cheers. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Will do mate. It's the rear that's causing issues!!!! Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Cheers mate. Got mine from demon plates last time. Specifically after pressed this time round. Just struggling. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk You can get road legal metal ones now. It's all down to the reflective paint needed on them or something. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Hi all, So I am after some new number plates. I've got a standard on the front and import 330mm x 165mm on the rear at the moment. I am looking at going for the pressed metal ones and have found a few places that do the standard front but not the rear. Any suggestions where to shop? Cheers Jim Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Seemed like a nice night for a photo Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

I got mine from demon plates. Decent quality, but you will need to send a scanned image of your v5 Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Personally I think it's horrible and spoils the whole look. Only being honest mate. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Hi all, Firstly can I say thankyou for everybodies input on this. To put it in a nut shell. I spoke to Edwin from meister and I found out the highest you can set the rear is until the threads from the strut are still visible in the spy hole. So I set both at the highest setting and added about 5mm of preload. It's surprising how much difference it makes to the height. I need to tweak the damper setting but at the moment I have it set to 14 and no rubbing as of yet. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Hi dorris, thanks again for the in depth description. I am still waiting for Jerrick to get in touch for advice. I appreciate what your saying reference the setup and while I am no way an expert I understand the basics ish...... my issue is I thought I could run these with zero preload with spacers but maybe not. I need to speak to Jerrick to find out the maximum height the rears and be run on for starters. Thanks against and will post the out come from meister themselves. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

That's is a very informative right up. Thankyou. Reference the sag. I presume the best was is to measure the distance between the centre of the wheel and the top of the arch. Lets says 200mm and then jack it up and measure the same datum again. Let's say it's 250mm. So I have 50mm worth of sag when the weight is on the shock. Does this mean I am supposed to put 50mm of preload onto the spring. My new datum would 250mm on the deck? But let's say I want my new height to be 265mm, do I then raise the damper up 15mm? Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Cheers mate. I've pmd Jerrick. Hopefully he will be able to shed some light on the situation. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk