Alan Clogwyn

On a sidenot, how the hell is that pissy little ensemble supposed to stiffen the car up in any way shape or form? option 1) Grind the weld off, nig nut and bolt to replace. option 2) Send the bugger back and try and get another.

It is a shame, but look on the bright side, the misfortune of these cars goes to keep others on the road - a lot of the GT4 parts in the Brown Celica came from the Whitchurch scrappy.

The fluid will have been screenwash. Inner wing may not be so badly mangled, worth ripping the outer off and having a look for sure.

I can't tell from the pics but if it's the actual glue, then you wil just have to hope that the area was greasy at the time it was applied and peel/scrape it off. If it's just the residue, which is white and looks kinda like overspray the it will ocme off with water if it's very recent or a good scrub with a cleaning product if not. It's the presence of water when setting that makes it go white.

It'll fit any 3SGE/FE that needs an intake temp sensor.

Time to change the fuel lines and injector O rings then.

The Gen 7 is OK, but lets look at a few of its issues: Windows. They don't seem to ever seal properly. Rust. the undersides are incredibly quick to rust up Brakes. Pure chocolate brake discs, rear calipers seem to be made of similar. 140 engines. Lets face it, they're a really low quality engine for toyota. Interior plastics. Fade at different rates. Interior Trim: ohh the noise! Alloys: 16" ones corroe and at least 2 of the others seem to pay midnight visits to Uri Geller. 190 Engines: Lift bolts anyone? MAF Sensor issues... Lets see Gen 6: The aerial will at some stage die 3SGE eventually starts disliking cold starts Handbrake cable will eventually need replacing due to seizing. It looks like Kermit's lovechild.

What exactly is the hose? Fuel hose is fuel hose really, as long as it's rated for petrol you'll be fine. Only cars with Cats have any kind of pressure build up in the tank and it's not huge.

Handbrake only, unless on a steep hill and I'm leaving it unattended. Wheels facing kerb in direction of hill too, just incase.

Which insurance co is that with? Sounds like they're just being gimps. TBF though it wasn't until 96ish that immobilisers really became the norm. Pretty sure no Gen5 has an immobiliser as standard, none of mine have had one.

Not sure it needs the Goatie on the front!

Halfords Pro Kit is good stuff, however it is not especially comprehensive. I bought Draper Expert sets because they had a better range and although they have taken a beating and professional use, they still don't get Extreme abuse, so are fine for my purposes. I think if you're looking at this as an investement then Snap on or Elora for the more exotic stuff and halfords for the general use? You can never bhave enough 8mm, 10mm or 17mm sockets, and spanners - they're alwyas the ones that go missing!

Silicone grease never once worked on any of mine. I even once had the door freeze open on my grey celica. Think I'll try the stuff Rich suggested.

That's exactly what my mate mentioned in another thread has - it's standard. It has terrible Build quality, blandest interior ever and is basically horrible to be in. However it does pull well, you can easily be the wrong side of a ton and not notice. It's not that fast at getting there though, I could keep up with it with ease in the Celica and can keep it within reach in the Civic (thraping it mind!). The speedo is also a bit optimistic, so there's a good change we weren't actually the wrong side of a ton at time of testing... However, next door has the top of the range WRC homologation model (forget what it's called) - now THAT is awesome!

No it didn't, fact. These are pure BS.

And they're crap in the wet comapared to ZE912s

In which case it'll be the one in which he signed an autograph for me!

Racing batteries behave differently to regular batteries. They require a different charge regulation so they don't last long on conventional systems. I can't remember the specifics now I'm afraid though. Your alternator must be feeding something, it's not good practice to have it open circuit! Chances are it runs to the starter motor where the battery is aso connected.

I don't know what a DRL is? footwells, up the corner behind the dash is usually into clear space in the engine bay and out the way enough not to get in the way in the cabin. If not. Can always follow existing looms which are easily identifiable and drill next to it, also gives you something to cable tie your new wiring onto to keep it tidy.

High Quality guarantee is a sure sign of the exact opposite in my experience.

Looks like a dead jellyfish

Handling, no point in having a powerful car round here the tourists clog up any vaguely straight road leaving the fun roads for me!

Just thought I'd bring your attention to a product I've just tried http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310339493750?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649. It's a liquid Electrical tape, very useful for repairs to cracked wiring etc, can't believe I've never found it before! I actually came across it as a method for repairing camera shutter curtains (After I put 2 holes in my very expensive and just serviced Pentax LX!) and I can confirm it works a treat for that too!

All KYB shocks are excellently made and very reliable. As has been noted, the OEM shocks are KYB Excel Gs. If you can find them, KYB Gas A-just are just the ticket for lowered suspension, don't know if they come in Celica flavour though. AGX's are very expensive, I got a price for mine and it was just shy ofcoilover territory.

Are you 100% sure you have an SS2 and not an SS1?