silver gt

For anyone now fretting about torque settings... The workshop manuals show torque for specific critical items, but for every other bolt there is a table of standard torques. Reproduced here in the Knowledge Base: http://www.celica-club.co.uk/wiki/index.php/G6_standard_torque

Glue the bits of broken glass back together? Hot glue might work...

Well the filament is broken but I'm sure a dab of solder would fix it.

In 1981 a mate at work got a '73 Celica ST. I knew of them, but at the time Japanese cars had a poor reputation for being made of plastic and tin foil. I had a go in it and I wasn't impressed. I had an 1850 Dolomite at the time and the Celica's handling and performance were laughable next to that. All the interior felt like it would break in a week and the exterior was covered with silly little chrome bits that looked tacky. It was a woman's car. But...despite all that, it kind of grew on me. I've had 4 Celicas so far, the current one for 10 years.

I've just looked up when the plugs were last changed in mine. September 2006

Was it cold last night? How old is your battery? If your battery is weak the voltage will drop on cold nights and that can cause the alarm to go off.

Yes it does, but not MA7X on. Off the top of my head...the 1 was a huge success, the 2 less so, the 3 saw huge sales again, the 4 was a dead duck, the 5 saw a resurgence (on the back of rally success), the 6 petered out and the 7 was an embarrassment that they struggled to give away.

The 2 million mark was passed in 1981, 3 million in 1986, 4 million in 2001. Gens 1, 2 & 3 account for three quarters of all Celicas, 4, 5 & 6 make about a quarter, and the 7 is what killed off the Celica name selling just 200,000 worldwide.

4,129,626

No. It may leave the paintwork shiny in the short term, but long term it will wreck it. Paraffin will wash out any wax and polish leaving the paint porous which will result in rust. However, if he meant 'paraffin wax'... Paraffin wax is a bit like Vaseline and would seal the paint, but I don't know if it would make it shine.

I've been using a set of Goodyear Ultra Grip Performance for the last 3 winters are they are awesome.

Many years ago I put Slick50 in a high mileage '76 3 litre Granada. The engine became noticeably quieter and mpg improved by about 5%. Don't know if there would be any benefit for a modern engine though.

Retreads - Strict quality control Part worn from a dealer - 10 sec assessment from a jaded tyre fitter Secondhand from eBay - completely unknown history That's the order I would choose. If I wasn't buying new (which I would) I would rather drive on retreads than dodgy used tyres.

Had mine for around 10 years now. No plans to replace it at the moment.

If you want to avoid any chance of damage, then the limit would be about 4 inches and keep the speed right down (10 to 20). Any more than that and you run the risk of the bumper scooping water into the engine bay. Obviously if the engine sucks some water in to the cylinders there is the chance of writing it off, but in reality if you have the stock intake complete with filter and no leaks then that is a small risk. But I've known of many cases of wrecked radiators, alternators and starter motors from driving through shallow flood water. If you run through deep water you really are playing Russian Roulette. If the water gets deeper than you first thought, or as Bill mentions someone else's wave catches you, you could stall. A large mass of water at the air intake will effectively suffocate the motor or could short out the electrics. Then you've got a dead car sitting partially submerged. The rust and electrical problems will haunt the car for the rest of it's (short) life. Do I sound over cautious? I have had to sort out the aftermath of other people's errors, I have seen the damage.

I've been driving for 35 years and in that time I have never not driven because of the conditions, in whatever car I've had at the time. Seriously, I've never really got what is so scary about winter driving. Snow, ice, sun, rain, every day's weather is different in this country, you just get on with it. Nowadays I run Goodyear winter tyres from December through to March, and I usually chuck a shovel in the boot, but tbh I've only ever used it to help other people who have got stuck.

Simple (ish) answer. Fuel burnt is a function of engine revs and throttle position. For a fixed throttle position (eg full throttle/foot hard down) 6k revs will use twice as much petrol as 3k revs. The problem is there is no way of accurately judging part throttle openings and any given cruising speed will involve different amounts of throttle in different gears. For these reasons there is no chance of calculating expected mpg. However, the rules for maximising mpg are fairly straightforward. For any cruising speed of 30 mph and above, top gear will give the best economy. Hard acceleration WILL use more fuel. Try keeping the revs under 3k for normal driving. Try to read the traffic ahead. If the car ahead of you slows right down to turn off at a junction, you have to slow down and then accelerate again, costing you fuel. But if you can anticipate his move and back off just slightly at an earlier point, you can make room for him to make his manoeuvre without having to slow down to his speed.