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I've been using v-power for quite awhile now (also triple points at the moment), I did notice an improvement but I never reset my ECU. What would this actually do and since it's been awhile of using v-power is it still worth doing. My MPG is dreadful lately, i'm going to look at cleaning the MAF sensor. Would resetting the ECU also help and is this done just by removing the battery cables for it to reset?

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I've been using v-power for quite awhile now (also triple points at the moment), I did notice an improvement but I never reset my ECU. What would this actually do and since it's been awhile of using v-power is it still worth doing. My MPG is dreadful lately, i'm going to look at cleaning the MAF sensor. Would resetting the ECU also help and is this done just by removing the battery cables for it to reset?

Hi mate

I think people suggest to reset the ECU after any changes to help the ECU relearn quicker - if you have been using it for a while there would be no need.

I would prob recommend resetting it after cleaning the MAF sensor though, this can be done by either disconnecting the battery or pulling out the relevant fuse - http://www.celicahobby.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/267456/ECU-How-To-Reset.html

Edited by Defective Audio
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Is that red ex stuff actually worth using then?

Depends what type of Redex you use, its been around many many years - certainly since the 1960s if not before that and sold as an upper cylinder lubricant, dunno if its any different now or just marketed differently. Use decent petrol and I doubt its necessary.

My car has an automated external system called "Flashlube" that feeds constantly into the inlets, because my engine also runs on LPG, Valves on Gen 7s are apparently "soft" so its necessary to use this system with LPG, otherwise the valves seats get buggered, still 196000 miles on the clock and all still good.

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My car has an automated external system called "Flashlube" that feeds constantly into the inlets, because my engine also runs on LPG, Valves on Gen 7s are apparently "soft" so its necessary to use this system with LPG, otherwise the valves seats get buggered, still 196000 miles on the clock and all still good.

I stopped using flashlube at about 140,000 (converted at 73,000) - when I found it was effectively only getting to cylinder 1

now on 216,000 miles and still ok

think the fact that its burning oil may be helping though

I know the 3s-ge and earlier fe engines used to burn valves without flashlube but from what ive heard the vvti engines dont suffer so much

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I stopped using flashlube at about 140,000 (converted at 73,000) - when I found it was effectively only getting to cylinder 1

now on 216,000 miles and still ok

think the fact that its burning oil may be helping though

I know the 3s-ge and earlier fe engines used to burn valves without flashlube but from what ive heard the vvti engines dont suffer so much

I hav a late 94 plate 3sfe engine wot signs shud I be looking for for what u mention above ams?
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I might be able to answer that as ams isn't about, LPG cannot lubricate the valve faces and seats, it has no additives unlike unleaded and the engine tends to run hotter. In the old days of 4 star petrol many engines had valve seats machined directly in the cylinder head so iron headed engines had no seat inserts, they weren't necessary.

Valves can recede into the seats and the valve stems move closer to the cams or followers reducing the valve gap or worse - no gap at all so the valve fails to seal and starts to burn ruining both the valves and the seats, and eventually reducing compression to zero - head off job when that happens, new valves and recut seats normally, not the end of the world but expense you don't need.

Valve clearances are there for a reason and should be checked from time to time.

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