InsolentMinx Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 1.5 tonne - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_215964_langId_-1_categoryId_165727 2 tonne - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_216002_langId_-1_categoryId_165727 2 tonne (with rachet handle) - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_253949_langId_-1_categoryId_165727 I want to get 2 so it'll make doing my front and rear brakes a little easier, plus painting rear calipers... Do i need a 1.5 or 2 tonne stand? And how do they work exactly? Jack the car up high enough, put the stands under it at your desired height, and then lower the car back onto them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsmith79 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Spot on, just jack car up and put under the car in a suitable place 1.5 ton will be fine as the whole car weighs less than that anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InsolentMinx Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 ah good good. just seen the 1.5 tonne ones are 1.5 tonne per stand. whereas the 2 tonne ones are 1 tonne per stand. cheeky! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyper-wrap Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Can jack at: Jacking points which are marked out with grooves along the lines of the car, then put jack stands at lower arm bolt (just at the back of the arch...can't miss it) or you can jack from the front subframe, but for the love of god be careful cos it's possible that the car will lurch forward...so handbrake on and choc the wheels with chocs or a brick, then put axle stands at the jacking points. lower arm bolt is slightly to the left of where I've taken a pic of my axle stand here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsmith79 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I've actually got some of those rachet handle ones as i use mine quite often and find it much easier than the silly little pin arrangement Even 1 ton stands will be fine as you never have more than half the weight on one stand anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InsolentMinx Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 good point about never having more than half the weight on one.... didn't think about chocks. Do i need them for front and back of the wheels? (seeing as it could roll forward or backwards) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsmith79 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Doesn't the tool kit already come with a wheel chock, i know my Gen 5 did And you only need to put the chock on the furthest side from where you are jacking, as in it isn't going to roll towards the jack, it will roll away from the jack as the car is at an angle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyper-wrap Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 you dont always have to chock the back as it's held in place by the handbrake, when you're jacking the rear..you DEFINITELY need to chock the front wheels. When I jack mine up at the back I make sure the front wheels are up against a kerb (my roads a cul-de-sac of sorts...we all park facing the block of flats) so that holds it in place. The reason I said to chock the back when using the front subframe as a jacking point is because of the car wanting to come forwards...it's got it's whole weight being focussed on a front center section so is more likely to do it. If you jack at the sides (when doing the front) the read doesn't need chocking as three wheels still have contact with the ground, so when both side of the front are up, the weight is distributed evenly through both axle stands....if you get me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InsolentMinx Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 And you only need to put the chock on the furthest side from where you are jacking, as in it isn't going to roll towards the jack, it will roll away from the jack as the car is at an angle very good point!! haha. i'm a complete idiot sometimes. you dont always have to chock the back as it's held in place by the handbrake, when you're jacking the rear..you DEFINITELY need to chock the front wheels. When I jack mine up at the back I make sure the front wheels are up against a kerb (my roads a cul-de-sac of sorts...we all park facing the block of flats) so that holds it in place. The reason I said to chock the back when using the front subframe as a jacking point is because of the car wanting to come forwards...it's got it's whole weight being focussed on a front center section so is more likely to do it. If you jack at the sides (when doing the front) the read doesn't need chocking as three wheels still have contact with the ground, so when both side of the front are up, the weight is distributed evenly through both axle stands....if you get me! i think i get you.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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