rpsmith79

If the WRC is rare, then the CR/RC must be rare too, personally i don't think they are that rare, with 5000 being made it's hardly that rare, i know a fair few will have been written off by now, but not rare by the Sunchaser/Avon standards

Probably mostly the early Gen guys Mister C has a Celica Sunchaser which is pretty rare, similar to ORC's Avon but is basically a Gen 2 vert

I was about to say, they look fine without a centre cap, until you showed your drive shaft sticking out the end I can't help but think that a big disc covering the lot would look a bit naff, might be best looking at something like the standard Gen 7 centre caps or Hilux ones and making some sort of adapter to make them fit over the driveshaft I just did a similar thing with my ST170 wheels, they had a horrible centre cap, so i got rid and managed to find a bung that filled the centre hole perfectly, luckily the drive shaft wasn't sitting proud though

Stick up a photo of the wheels, someone might be able to think up another solution

Depends what wheels you have got, if you are using standard Mr T wheels you will need to stick with the standard flat seated style nuts, if you have aftermarket wheels then look for some steel M12x1.5 60 degree taper nuts

I had the exact same tuner ones on my 5, had them on for 12 months with the wheels on and off every few months for a clean, and did one track day Never had a problem with them at all The only nuts i would be worried about id aluminium ones, there is very little chance in sheering steel nuts unless you use a 10 foot breaker bar Yes, this x1,000,000

If the bottom end has gone then your engine will have very limited life till it goes pop, or rather just grinds to a halt, but if it has gone you won't save the engine by not driving on it, it will just gradually get worse What sort of rattle is it, high pitch, metallic, low knocking noise, is it speed or revs related Very difficult to diagnose over an internet forum to be fair

Hmmm, rattling under load can be an indication of bottom end failure, i know that is what the symptoms of mine were, i hope that is not the case though

There aren't many other hoses there other than the 2 main rad hoses are there Or are you talking about all the vacuum lines, if so you don't need a kit, you just need to buy xx meters of silicone vacuum hose and cut it to length, just measure the bore of the vac lines and buy the appropriate size silicone hoses The Gen 5 3SGE is 4mm and 8mm bore i believe, but make sure you buy 3mm wall hose otherwise it will collapse under vacuum pressure if you buy the cheap 2mm wall stuff

It's just not worth the risk IMO, even if you have winter tyres on your own car, it only takes one idiot who hasn't to crash into your car, and since most of our cars on getting on these days (Gen 6 and older) most would end up getting written off for minor damage)

After my first year with the Gen 5 in the snow and it moving no where, i've used my feet and public transport the 3 years since that But anyone who knows Sheffield will know it's just one hill after another no matter where you live

This x10, i tried many times with a hair dryer and it it's just not worth the wasted vinyl for the £20 it costs for a heat gun I think the whole point in him doing it himself is to save money Ray, if he was going to spend several hundred pounds on training he may as well pay someone else to do it And i managed easily enough with no official training

I am always a bit wary about eBay sellers selling Hexis vinyl cheap as most seem to sell it cheaper than you can actually buy it from Hexis, even on their cheapest trade tariff I have been sold fake Hexis before, but that was when i was starting out and didn't have a trade account with Hexis

Just my local tyre place, and that was fitted and balanced too

These are what i just bought http://www.tyrerevie...alken/ZE914.htm Rolling Resistance E Wet Grip B And it £65 per corner for 215/45/17 not a bad price And in my book that equates to lots of dry grip, and pretty damn good wet grip too

Are you for real, are you seriously looking at which tyres look nicer

Yep, long lasting tyres are long lasting for a reason, they are made of cheap hard compound rubber, for grip you want softer compound rubber And i know the number one thing i look for in tyres is how well they grip as that is the only thing holding my car on the black stuff, all those other things the OP mentioned are secondary IMO Although saying that i really don't get these new ratings (A-F), especially the Economy (Rolling resistance) one, surely it should be the other way round and be called Grip The last tyres i bought were rated Economy E, that equals grip in my book

I suppose i was more hinting to the point of a corp member who is called DNA Motorsport is promoting the use of OBD2 apps to give BHP readings, you'd think they would know better, but after reading another thread on here i can see why now

The diagnostic port cannot tell the bhp or torque of the engine Also, the scanner has nothing to do with what data the ECU outputs via the OBD2 port, the port is for diagnostic use and outputs engine parameters, BHP and torque are not engine paramaters

Also, i'd love to know what OBD2 scanner can read BHP and Torque from the engine diagnostics................ and you call yourself DNA Motorsports :rolleyes:

Yet another iphone fail

+1, just get a cheapo bluetooth one for a tenner, i got one for the ST170 and it works a treat with the Torque App (like £3 off the Google Play store)

I can't believe no one has mentioned your earth yet Get your earth wire checked (undo and clean all of the contacts), then for good measure add another one (doesn't really matter where to, just add another chuncky gauge wire to the engine block and/or chassis) 90% of engine electrical problems are down to a poor earth connection