slybunda

Was full geometry check on hunter machine. I needed adjustments last year but this year it didnt need anything. Also MOT passed 2 weeks ago no issues. Surprised tester didnt say anything about the wear. Guess since they are still both above legal limit they wont mention it. Going around roundabouts shouldnt make a difference unless its like nascar? I used the depth gauge and its a 2.3mm increase in wear on the front passenger tyre. And its even across the tyre. Very odd. However these are the first tyres iv put on the car since i bought it 4 years ago.

hey all, was checking pressures in my tyres today and noticed the front passenger tyre has worn down a lot more than the drivers side front. the wear on both tyres is even across the tyre. alignment was checked last month and needed no adjustments. pressures were even too what could cause just one tyre to wear more than the other?

Yes i plan to use rust converter. I have aquasteel and then use the oxide primer and then use the underseal. Looks like a big job but may turn out to be easy

ok so i will use rust converter, then primer epoxy mastik and then the underseal. also do i have to use epoxy mastic? i already have a tin of zinc phosphate primer would that not work? also is seam sealer any good? also would like to provide this link here: http://www.auson.se/sites/default/files/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk.pdf some people might find it interesting, its a review of different rust protection stuff.

hey all i got some of this stuff on order: do i just slap it on to the car directly or should i use a primer first? or paint first?

should knock not be at 0? if above 0 then doesnt that mean its knocking and bad?

everyone these days seems to be getting Fiesta and Focus ST's. cheap power.

whoa thats some major players the 86 has bet. was it a standard or modified car?

whats epoxy mastic do? is it a primer or something more durable?

First time iv seen factual info on momentum99 and vpower. Everyone else goes on about it witha butt dyno guage. But cant argue with a knock sensor reading.

im gonna start with the rust proofing in the coming months too. thinking of just using wire brush and some zinc oxide primer then use stone chip or hammerite on rear subframe.

i use ceratec grease

hmm thats good need to find someone in coventry that mixes paint.

Hmm how much would a paint match cost? Probably need a small amount like a tippex bottle

hey all, has anyone used this sort of touchup paint to sort out some stone chips etc? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-High-Quality-Grey-Metallic-1D2-Touch-Up-Paint-Stick-PZ448W1D2009-/221564201371

exhaust tip diameter is also 86mm.

got new battery and all is working fine. will remember next time i leave it sitting for too long to disconnect the negative terminal.

Got back from holiday and have not driven the celica for almost 4 weeks. Before this there has been some slow starting up issues but this time before even cranking it i checked with the multimeter and the battery was at 7.3volts. Dead So need a new battery and 2 are showing. A 005 and a 158. The 158 seems smaller in size. Should i just stick with the 005 type that im currently using? Someone needs to fix the forums its just too damn slow

Does seem to be the battery. Let engine run in morning for good 45mins today. Came back after work and it cranked up fine a quick. Will be going on holiday now so car gonna be parked up for 4 weeks. Will disconnect the battery while im gone. Will just get a new one when i get back. Wonder if these new start stop car batteries are any good. They seems to cost a lot.

cool, u mentioned of other types of batteries? is there anything thats good for someone who doesnt drive the car often? a deep cycle type of battery or something that wont die as quick? or is it just best for me to buy an exide 005 model battery with 4 year warranty for £53?

hey all, noticed over the last 2 days now that the engine seems to run over a lot slower when starting. it does start up but doesnt seem to have the same sort of energy as it used to when starting it used to spin the starter motor quicker. granted i havent driven the car for nearly 2 weeks but iv let it go longer in the past and it started up faster. started it today it started first time but did crank over a lot slower than it used to. could this is be the start motor on its way out or the battery on its last legs? battery is the same one that came with the car iv never replaced it since iv had the car. its a halfords one iv had the car for nearly 4 years so the battery is bound to be over 4 years old.

Cant really claim a high mileage record if its had an engine replacement.

Awsome document well worth the read

That on original engine?

Id like more info on that. Also i had an article somewhere on underseals. I will dig it up. It was a full on test of many brands.