edwardio

I've not used a tape measure as I haven't had chance, plus I don't feel great (excuses, excuses ). Anyway the tyres are wided as when I compare the look of the car now to pics of the car with the old rims, they do look a little wider, with the Avon being wider than the BF Goodrich. This is is also backed up by the rub marks being futher up the tyre. I have an idea though, which I think could work. I think I might be able to remove my spacers altogether, as I only needed them due to my old alloys not fitting due to the Wilwood BBK. As my new rims are of a different design, I'm fairly confident that the spokes shouldn't catch when fully bolted on. If they do, then its old wheels back on until I can buy 8 Falken 452 tyres as I know they fit (my spare rims are now my track rims & the 452's did fine for me on the track). It's that or get the arches rolled, but the Avon is still a little too wide! Thanks for all the help though guys. Just one of those unexpected but annoying things!

It's the shoulder that's rubbing

Actually I have 1 Avon & 3 BF Goodrich. The Goodrich are 91W's & the Avon is an 87Y. My Falkens are all 87Y's, but its the Avon that is rubbing the most.

Both profiles are 45. I even checked the new rims yesterday to confirm the size. The problem now is, that the new rims are to be my normal driving rims.

Ok I have 2 sets of rims, both are 17" 7J ET35. I'm also running 27mm spacers. Now on both sets I have 215/45/17's. Last night I used the car on my new rims (running BF Goodrich - came on the rims) but I've checked this morning & the rear wheels have been rubbing. The thing is though, my previous rims (running Falken 452's) didn't rub despite being on the 27mm spacers. Anybody with any ideas as to why?

Basically what Sam has said is spot on. The oil pan isn't overly a big issue, as if you put in a little more oil you should be fine. The sump was designed to take 1g before oil starvation & there is no way you'll hit 1g in a corner, not on normal tyres. Have fun & enjoy yourself. If you feel the car is getting away from you, ease off a little. You can make life for your tyres by cornering slower & taking a smoother line. If the tyres are squeeching, then tone it down a little.

Fit a rotrex!

Either they don't know what they are doing or they keep getting disturbed. If they really wanted the car, they would've had it away. So something is stopping them. Sitting in wait is good idea (best in another car). Stay in the shadows with a camera & just record when they arrive. Make sure you get pics of any car they arrive in. If it looks like they might actually get in the car, then either turn the lights on or drive in front of the car. If they don't get in and leave again then submit the evidence to the police. If a thief really wants something of yours, they will take it regardless of a car alarm or house alarm. Another option, is to disconnect something in the engine. That way they can't steal the car should they get in!!

Bad news Sam. No body was hurt, oh no what's that your neck is hurting! Only joking. That bumper needs to come off to see what the real damage is. At least you didn't go forward & hit the car in front as well. It should get sorted quickly as it's a shunt. Your case - driving along with traffic, car in front brakes hard, you slow down as quickly as you can in the expect safe distance, but due to new tyres you are carefull under braking. Golf driver is too close & can't stop in time. Due to your safe distance you do not roll forward & hit the car in front.

I got mine from him no problem ages ago. He does make them all to order. So although its bad you didn't get the kit you paid for, I'm sure its probably stock or work load.

Oh yeah just noticed this line - Generates 250CFM of forced air The fact is, that is less than a STANDARD radiator fan which operates at 400-700CFM! So how the f**k, can this 'supercharger' produce 15-20BHP

its a really easy. Everything is easy to get to.

The insurers will cover the car. It doesn't matter that much to them if its not taxed or non-MOT'd. As if you got caught its more money to them come renewal time due to the points you'd get. If you crash then they won't like it. But they'll insure a car that is SORN'd, as you're still coving it for theft, fire & damage.

I have looked at PC fans. The most powerful 120mm fan only does 195cfm. A normal radiator fan is 400-700! So I don't think a pc fan would cope, plus there's the heat issue, as most only operate upro 80c

I need to find a 12v radiator fan that is about 4" in diameter. So anybody any ideas? Who's got a scooter? How big is your radiator fan?

I didn't put the photos in there. I think they are meant to just be a visual aid. Plus its this weeks edition! The listed figures are for: 1.8 T-Sport, 2.0 GTi-16 & 1.8 ST. All the figures seem right when compared to Parkers online.

Fiesta ST - Engine Size 1999 cc Cylinders 4 0-60 mph 7.9 s Power Output 147 bhp Valves 16 Torque 190 Nm 140 lb-ft Top Speed 129 mph Weight 1165 kg Gears 5 Celica 140 - Engine Size 1794 cc Cylinders 4 0-60 mph 8.7 s Power Output 140 bhp Valves 16 Torque 173 Nm 125 lb-ft Top Speed 127 mph Weight 1145 kg Gears 6 On paper the Fiesta should have it, but only just. Yes it has 15lb-ft of torque & 7BHP more, but its heavier by 20kg. So this I'm afraid is all down to the driver.

Well I had a look in Auto Expresses lastest release today on my break & they did a segment on which Celica is the best sense to buy! The running order is: Gen7 Gen5 Gen6 Now let the arguements begin!!!

Hello &

If the chips are repairable, the glass people will do it. If it needs replacing, then you must pay your excess. That is unless they repair it & then it cracks from the same place. Then they must replace it under their warrenty.

Well done mate. That looks a right proper job!

These Cat's I found, are good for just under 300BHP I've been told by the supplier. So should be a good buy for SC'd 140's or general 190's with stage 2 cams.

The only issue is that I would need 2 if I went for this. The 3 sports exhaust companies I have already spoken to, have said I would need a 200 cell cat or 2x 100 cell cats.

The cable from the battery to the alternator has carroded & gone solid (not sure how but for the level of damage, power has flowed the wrong way or something). As a results its had a knock on affect by damaging the cabling for the reversing light electrical system. There might be more damage, but I don't know, so basically the whole thing needs replacing & all the cables behind the dash checked too! It's all an expense I could have done without and as a result I'm in two minds whether to just jack the car in, as if it needs some/all the wiring replaced, I just can't afford it! Not good times.

Due to a recent discovery this weekend, it looks like I may need to get a replacement 190 wiring loom. As a result I need to make a few cut backs here & there to find the funds for the new loom. Now as you may or may not know, I need to also get a 2.5" exhaust mid section with sports cat. Now the places I've contacted have said the cats are about £250, though a friend of mine has said that's over priced. After a little looking, I have found a 2.5" Universal Sports Cat (200 cell) for £105. The manufacturer is Hoffmann. So has anyone ever bought any of there cats/exhausts etc and if so, what are your thoughts on their products? Click