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_Chris_ last won the day on February 18

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  1. AS far as I'm aware, the only self learning on the later ECU's is idle RPM and knock retard. You are referring to open / close loop mixture control. On the GT4's it only goes to close loop for idle and cruise, I suspect the same may be true on the N/A versions as there are power gains from running richer on full throttle and the regulations of the time only required accurate mixture at idle and light throttle. I presume you are thinking of trying to run weaker on cruise to gain a wee bit of ecconomy ?
  2. Like an expectant father !

    Good to see a car with some history being looked after, Have a good holiday.
  3. Grim spark plugs

    Were those in a marine engine from a shipwreck ? I suspect they were fitted in 2005 in the Ford factory.
  4. I'm locked out of my car... HELP

    Don't use WD40 as it will make rubber seals swell up and eventually disintegrate. You can get proper lock spray, or find a penetrating oil that is rubber safe.
  5. Selling repo'd cars? Advice required

    The laws are very complex regarding taking items to repay debts, and contravening these can be a criminal offence, or at the very least can lead to a large compensation claim. Effectively any items taken that aren't owned by the debtor are stolen property, this may even apply to goods taken without court documentation. Bear in mind that a company and the company owner is not one and the same.
  6. Trouble with relays

    There are many types of LED. An old fashioned pure LED would probably go pop with the current passed by a relay coil, but nowadays many leds come with series resistors (which would stop the relay pulling in) or high power/high brightness which would probably work in the diagram shown. The safest bet is to get an LED rated for 14V (12V) or an old fashioned led plus a series 1K ish resistor and wire in paralell with the relay coil. As far as permanent power, you may have wired to the normally closed contact, and then not have sufficient current topull in the relay. It is also possible that the relay is wired correctly but has insufficient current for the load and the contact has welded together. Amplifiers usually have large capacitors which pull a very high current for a short time at power on, this is renowned for weldingrelay contacts. Another safety issue is that you should have a fuse next to the battery with a rating no higher than the wiring it is feeding. i.e. if you have used 50A wire, then the fuse should be rated 50A or less. This is so that if you get a short in the wiring or any other sort of overload, the fuse will blow before the wire catches fire. You can use lower rated fuses in the fusebox and then run thinner wires from there.
  7. If it wasn't limited to celicas, I could mention the copper pipe over the snapped gearstick on my old escort. It got me home, and worked so well I didn't rush to do the job properly. The cops weren't impressed when they pulled me over one day though.
  8. Imobiliser/ignition problem

    Have you tried driving it with the traction control switched off ?
  9. Imobiliser/ignition problem

    As long as the bellhousing is held solidly to the engine, it shouldn't have an effect on the clutch. The biggest danger of mixing up bolts is a short bolt where a long one should be may pull the tread out, if a bolt is too long it may go tight before it's actually holding anything, and this is what may cause clutch issues. If these links work, it should be the Toyota workshop manuals for the gen 7. Dropbox are discontinuing public link sharing so I'm trying google. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1egIA8cOCXVNlp5ZVpMWmc1MWM https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1egIA8cOCXVMERSSjAweVZhVWc
  10. Imobiliser/ignition problem

    I'm not familiar with gen 7, is it normal for security light to fkash with an engine problem ? Assuming no, it sounds far more like a poor connection causing electrical power loss. Most likely with the clutch swap a connection has been left loose (e.g. earth strap or battery), a plug not pushed fully together, or something shorting to earth, e,g, nattery left loose or loom left rubbing on engine or body. Also, check all the bolts are tight holding engine to gearbox, and clutch cylinder bolts. These loose would cause inconsistent bite point and kangarooing described. Unless you are an experienced mechanic, don't try removing and refitting the engine. Far more likely you will just ruin the car or end up with a pile of parts and no idea how to put them back. It may be an idea to take the car to someone experienced and familiar with the car such as AMS. They are far more likely to spot the problem.
  11. Alternator Problem

    I presume it was the output wire then ?
  12. Alternator Problem

    If you mean M6 thread (10mmAF) then yes. All the other (low power) wires go via the plug.
  13. Alternator Problem

    If you mean the wire was getting hot at the big ring terminal on the back of the alternator, this is a fairly common problem and is due to corrosion causing a poor contact. Heat is generated when you have a high resistance but still enough connection to get some current flowing. (power = volts x amps - with no voltage drop (good connection) or no current (open circuit) there is no heat ) The problem becomes a vicious circle as the heat produced by a slightly high resistance joint accellerates the corrosion. The solution is to follow the wire back into the solid loom housing that goes over the cam belt to where there has been no heating, cut the wires at this point then join on new wire & eyelet connector. Use wire (copper part) at least as big as the original and either ensure good quality crimp connections or better still solder & sleeve. (I often strip the insulator off the crimps after and then solder as well, then sleeve) Soldering will avoid corrosion in the copper being a problem, but it also makes the wire brittle so better not to do this where there may be vibration / flexing.
  14. Nothing but trouble

    I saw this & thought of this thread.
  15. Funny comments on MOT paperwork

    It's backside covering as there are items they can't inspect e.g. brake lines.