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bazz54

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About bazz54

  • Rank
    Speeding

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oxfordshire
  • Model
    Gen 7 140

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  1. Gen 7..good used buy or not?

    Re service history, some of the best cars you could buy would have no service history because they've owned by enthusiasts who have cherished them and looked after them themselves. I suppose that if you buy any car without a service history, the sort of things you might look for would be; the bills for the parts they've bought The old MoT's online (failure and advisories) Indications that the seller is an enthusiast; can he/she talk about the car in detail, esp the weakness's, I've had both my cars for ages; the prospect of having to go out to buy a used car is pretty daunting .
  2. Bug splatter

    Use a solution of a bio-washing powder, wipe it over the area and leave for a few minutes, and they should come off easily. Been doing it a long time; not seen any bad effects on the paintwork.
  3. Gen 7..good used buy or not?

    Hard to generalise; depends a lot on the individual car and the individual buyer. For the first time ever, I had to do work on my 2002 G7 to get it through its MoT; viz - remove and clean both front calipers to cure slight binding and replace one rear caliper (£20 off ebay). I think that's pretty good going for a 16 year old car, which then got through the test without a single advisory. However, I've owned the car for 13 years and it has been well looked after. If I was selling it, I'd happily sell it to a good friend. However, the list of issues you present is valid and if someone picked up a car with many or all of those problems it would be "less attractive". That would be particularly true for a buyer who knows squat about car maintenance. I'm not sure I would want to buy any car that was more than 6 years old. I think the 7 stands up well against cars of comparable age.
  4. Well, not actually done today, but last Thursday, we passed our 13th MoT together . Had to do relatively a lot of work this year; both front calipers were binding slightly and needed an oily rag wiped over them. One of the rear calipers looked like it might be past the oily rag stage so that got replaced, but got a good used one for £20 on ebay. After that all OK, with no advisories.
  5. I've always been pretty much satisfied with the brakes on my 140; never thought about making any changes or fitting a stopper. It's only because I had my little 'accident' and let the reservoir drain out (never done that before!) that I'm a bit spooked about it now.
  6. Yes, that would work for vacuum bleeding; good idea. Did a second all-round bleed on mine last night then took it to a car park and and tested out the ABS, which worked very well (on a very good and dry surface), and it was stopping very nicely with no juddering or pulling. Is it still a bit spongy...hard to say (it is a 14 year old Gen7), but aiming to get the MoT done this coming week.
  7. Vacuum bleeding is popular and I've done it but I wonder about the extent to which you may suck bubbles of air in down past the threads on the bleed nipple. I always cover those threads with lots of PTFE tape, but that seals most effectively on tapered threads rather than parallel. Another option (for one-person bleeding) is to buy one of those little non-return valves (~£1) they use in fish tanks and connect that on the nipple, then just pump on the pedal.
  8. But in the case of a Gen7, it's only a push-on cap. Not sure how much pressure that could safely hold. Maybe a tie-wrap around it would be the way to go?
  9. Is anyone a big fan of the Gunson’s Power (Brake) Bleed kit? These things have been around for decades, and I’ve owned one for a very long time, but I don’t have a clear memory of ever having used it on any car. If it works OK for you, it should make bleeding the brakes very easy, but if it leaks, brake fluid could spray everywhere. Today I tried fitting it on to the master cylinder on my Gen7; there is just space to fit it. But as the reservoir has a push-on rather than screw-on top, the Gunson needs to be held pressure-tight over the top with the nylon straps provided and this is where it is less good on the 7. The underside of the reservoir is shaped so that is tapered towards the front, so when the straps tighten they don’t pull evenly and directly down on the Gunson cap, but forward and slightly off centre. So, it might seal or it might leak . The straps supplied seem awkward and oversized to me; I’m going so it I can find something similar but a bit more flexible before I consider using it. (My current bleeding task is OK’ish, after Bleed Round#2).
  10. Well, I clamped the hose and disconnected it from the caliper and there was no leak. But I came back a couple of hours later and the driveway is awash with brake fluid, reservoir well empty. So guess what comes now; yes, bled nsr, osr, osf then nsf and ....it is pretty spongy. So have just been reading the previous threads on this and the issue of the ABS cycling comes up; bugger . What to do next; MoT is looming? Spotted on another forum; best bleed clutch too, as common reservoir.
  11. Not sure if this is the best place to post it; there's a guy on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323238637525 selling Draper brake hose clamps for £4.60 a pair inc p&p. I got 2 and have just ordered 2 more. I had a bad "event" with an improvised hose clamp last week, so decided not to do that again .
  12. Well, at least you didn't call it 'Jean Luc' !!!
  13. Painting Replacement Brake Calipers

    Mmmm, well call me a tight-fisted Yorkshire sod, but the Humbrol Enamel at ~£1.50 per 14ml tin seems like a better deal . Two tins will do all 4 calipers. I use Baltic Blue (a metallic Royal Blue, no political inference shall be implied!!!).
  14. Well....while you are in the line, I've just spotted the comment where you refer to your 7 as "he"! Oh no, that cannot be right . James T. never referred the Enterprise as anything other than she. I regard mine as neutral, or female.
  15. Replaced the rear offside brake caliper. The mounting bolts came undone with no great effort but then....the pins were seriously rusted in and all attempts to budge them failed (had soaked them in WD40 yesterday). So, out with my Minicraft drill with a slitting wheel on it and cut my way through each pin in about 5 minutes, and then transferred the pads over to the nice nearly-new caliper from eBay. Minidrills are nearly worth their weight in gold; couldn't manage without one (got two actually ).