Celica Club UK Messages

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Showing most liked content since 15/09/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    IMO a classic car must be 100% factory spec'd. From there, you can do whatever you want, it is your car anyways. The downside with modding a car is that, our own taste is not for everyone. Thus if you ever decide to sell, less people will be willing to put an offer, devaluing this way the car. Personaly I love "properly" modded cars and this is what I am doing with mine.
  2. 2 points
    It's your car - do what you want with it. If you're concerned about future value and originality, any mod that cannot be quickly removed and returned to stock is frowned on. Just make sure you keep all the deleted parts. If you do any work on the engine - it's almost inevitable that you will end up with it forged - stock items are either unavailable or massively expensive, so much so that a forged upgrade is the economical option. Forged engine leads onto other performance mods, and before you know it - it isn't a cs anymore but it will be fast.
  3. 1 point
    It stops being a CS when you plant it into a wall IMO, as long as the outer shell is correct, the WTA intercooler system is present, original gearbox and rear LSD retained, and the all important LE plaque is on show it will always be a CS. We all must honor El Matador
  4. 1 point
    I was so sure that this was a Lead in for a joke. Something like: How do you know your GT4 is a CS? Because Carlos Sainz it... umm.. Where did I put my coat, again?
  5. 1 point
    You may have been better to post this in Gen 5 where more of the CS guys would see it? I guess one of the questions would be what are you looking for? A good performing CS or using the CS to progress to something else? If it is original at the moment (save for the ICE!!), it would be a shame to change it - but that is only my opinion and some of the guys have high performing CSs or RCs with many changes! Original CSs are much rarer.
  6. 1 point
    Thank you, I've still not tidied the wiring and won't get the car back from being wrapped until Tuesday. For the polished parts, I just bought an extra intake chamber(I think it's called), rocker cover and throttle body from Ams and took had them to a local polisher then swapped them over (well, had a garage do that while they serviced the car) once they were done. If your looking at doing something similar, have a look at the hydro-dipping thread from BRD first.They do some awesome things with that.
  7. 1 point
    As many will know, the light output of a headlight goes up sharply as the feed voltage increases in the range 12-14 volts. Considering that even in a new car that there is always some voltage lost between the battery and the bulb, I was wondering what it might be in an older car, as it probably gets worse with age of the car. I did an experiment over the weekend measuring the volts drop in my old Rover 600 (because a gorilla can access the headlights on that car, unlike the Gen7!). I was quite surprised to find there was (near as dammit) 1V being lost. Does anyone have any feel for how typical this may be? I've heard stories in the past about people wiring in new supply circuits to their headlights, using the shortest possible runs of comfortably rated cable, operating from a separate relay. Could be worth doing, as opposed to buying the brightest, and most short-lived bulbs?
  8. 1 point
    Fitted my Blitz warm air intake Which, going by other peoples engine bay pics with the Advanced air cleaner, I think I have done right... Need to tidy up some wiring but it went and got dark on me so tomorrow if not raining.
  9. 1 point
    i take it you get a lot of magpies landing on your car when the bonnets up?
  10. 1 point
    Maybe not,if you had a caravan then you'd need to get another made up anyway,for example.Which reminds me I need to get one done as Ive changed my car since the caravan was last taken out to annoy everyone on the roads to the West country.Cheers for the reminder G